Who says you need an Alaskan Mill?

[Hammered]

Any others stepping up.
Paragon says he is doing it.

Beats being on your knees pushing a frame and sucking fumes.

It's really pretty easy after a few cuts.

Look at the others in bare feet or half cut drunk.

 

[Marshy]

I might give it a try. I have some big poplar I want made into large cants.

 

[Wilhelm]

I've done it before.
Though I keep burying the bar deep, take a big bite - maybe that's why it never turns out nice?!

These were noodled, bar fully burried - turned out OK.

Oak log butt, about 40" short, Dolmar PS-7900 & 36" B&C setup.
Was fun.
Had to sharpen the chain 2/3 through the job as the butt had a hollow section filled with dirt.

 

[Dub11]

I've done it before.
Though I keep burying the bar deep, take a big bite - maybe that's why it never turns out nice?!

These were noodled, bar fully burried - turned out OK.
View attachment 77574 View attachment 77576
Oak log butt, about 40" short, Dolmar PS-7900 & 36" B&C setup.
Was fun.
Had to sharpen the chain 2/3 through the job as the butt had a hollow section filled with dirt.

Lools pretty good! What are you going to make out of them?

 

[paragonbuilder]

I didn't video but I just did this freehand with no lines with an ms 260.
Cutting this way it doesn't seem you need a very big Saw. A longer bar would be nice though.

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[T.Roller]

I didn't video but I just did this freehand with no lines with an ms 260.
Cutting this way it doesn't seem you need a very big Saw. A longer bar would be nice though.

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Could you send me a couple cants. I'll pay $20 shipped

 

[paragonbuilder]

Could you send me a couple cants. I'll pay $20 shipped

It's not bad. A little practicing and im sure you can be reasonably accurate. You should try it Dave.
I've got videos loading of my second cant.

 

[T.Roller]

It's not bad. A little practicing and im sure you can be reasonably accurate. You should try it Dave.
I've got videos loading of my second cant.

Sounds good!

 

[Wilhelm]

Lools pretty good! What are you going to make out of them?

Two look very nice and I made them extra thick hoping that they won't split too much while drying - they are also the widest.
I want to try make a table top off the nice ones and bench tops of the others if they don't split too much.

If I manage to make something nice out of those great, if not they'll be reduced to firewood size.

 

[paragonbuilder]

Sounds good!

Here it is Dave, took a while to upload.
Freehand milling with the mofo 260.
Videos are long, but at least I'm not talking... lol

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[T.Roller]

I have to say dan you did a great job. Thank you for the video. I'll have to try that out to make me some pine cants

 

[Hammered]

A round of beers for all of you.
Well done!!!!
Some nice looking pieces.

Now for you that don't have big planer your going to have to clean them up.

Going up to the shop and will take some pictures right now of what you will need.

 

[paragonbuilder]

I have to say dan you did a great job. Thank you for the video. I'll have to try that out to make me some pine cants

Thanks Dave. And @Hammered is right. Cutting with the tip is way better than the whole bar. I've done it that way with a jig.
But it's going to take some practice.

I've got a 19'x24" pine here to mill up. I think I'll try the 460 with the 36" for reach, and if I don't like it I can grab one of the 394's


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[paragonbuilder]

A round of beers for all of you.
Well done!!!!
Some nice looking pieces.

Now for you that don't have big planer your going to have to clean them up.

Going up to the shop and will take some pictures right now of what you will need.

It is beer time!
What is your name by the way?
Any thoughts on improving?
You mentioned cutting forward instead of pulling back...that's going to take some getting used to. But I noticed pulling back the chain like to crawl sideways...


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[paragonbuilder]

Just took a swipe down a chunk of red cedar. I had it too high.
Video loading


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[T.Roller]

Thanks Dave. And @Hammered is right. Cutting with the tip is way better than the whole bar. I've done it that way with a jig.
But it's going to take some practice.

I've got a 19'x24" pine here to mill up. I think I'll try the 460 with the 36" for reach, and if I don't like it I can grab one of the 394's


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I'll have to try when I get a log. I've got a poplar and a very large red oak I need to put on the ground sometime.

 

[paragonbuilder]

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[Hammered]

Here is what you need to shine up your new pieces.
Also the sh t I use for slabs that will not fit my old grizzly 15" planer
Electric hand planer a must.
I found this Chino 4" planer for $80 here.(disposible tooling at this price)
200 hrs and still works.
Personally want the makita 6" but don't have the $2500.

With a straight edge start cross hatching with the planer.

Now get out the jig saw or bandsaw better and cut some 6 or 7" plywood disks.
Holes the center out.
Use an old grinding disc or sanding flap wheel even better for your hub.
Screw it on. This is not Osha approved but a 3rd world tool we all use and the best Fn tool in your shop.
And yes they have blown apart but doesn't hurt for long and very rarely happens if made right.

Now mount your 3rd world sanding dick on the Harley grinder and dress or balance it.
I glue 40 grit on a cement block and burn off the edge till it runs smooth with no vibration.

Go buy some 40 60 80 120 grit roll of paper and a can of contact cement.
Rip up squares and glue them on the balanced disks you have made.
Use a carpet knife to trim off the edges.
I personally have a bucket of these 3rd world sanding disks.

Get a mask as this kicks out a load of dust!

Now you can shine up your handy work.

2 photos of before and after photos of some Mora hardwood slabs I polished up Thursday morning and a teaser of the new chainsaw mill in the worxs


Free hand rough cut.
Shined up. I personally like the saw scar defects and Adds some character by saying say this was cut with a saw.

200 plus hrs and still going. I didn't expect to get a week out it to be honest.
3rd world sanding disc.
Me and Oscar my good buddy used to refinish hard wood floors with these with better finish than the indurial machines.
The hub. I like birch cement forming wood. A good marine plywood is also good.
Keep it flat on the surface and hang on as its going to pull you around.

Forgot to mention when the paper is NFG just glue another on top of this paper.
You can do a 4-6 layer cookie then peal it clean it with gas or thinner and start again.

Great job everyone and keep up the good work.

 

[paragonbuilder]

Here is what you need to shine up your new pieces.
Also the sh t I use for slabs that will not fit my old grizzly 15" planer
Electric hand planer a must.
I found this Chino 4" planer for $80 here.(disposible tooling at this price)
200 hrs and still works.
Personally want the makita 6" but don't have the $2500.

With a straight edge start cross hatching with the planer.

Now get out the jig saw or bandsaw better and cut some 6 or 7" plywood disks.
Holes the center out.
Use an old grinding disc or sanding flap wheel even better for your hub.
Screw it on. This is not Osha approved but a 3rd world tool we all use and the best Fn tool in your shop.
And yes they have blown apart but doesn't hurt for long and very rarely happens if made right.

Now mount your 3rd world sanding dick on the Harley grinder and dress or balance it.
I glue 40 grit on a cement block and burn off the edge till it runs smooth with no vibration.

Go buy some 40 60 80 120 grit roll of paper and a can of contact cement.
Rip up squares and glue them on the balanced disks you have made.
Use a carpet knife to trim off the edges.
I personally have a bucket of these 3rd world sanding disks.

Get a mask as this kicks out a load of dust!

Now you can shine up your handy work.

2 photos of before and after photos of some Mora hardwood slabs I polished up Thursday morning and a teaser of the new chainsaw mill in the worxs

View attachment 77631
Free hand rough cut.View attachment 77632
Shined up. I personally like the saw scar defects and Adds some character by saying say this was cut with a saw.
View attachment 77633
200 plus hrs and still going. I didn't expect to get a week out it to be honest.View attachment 77636
3rd world sanding disc.
Me and Oscar my good buddy used to refinish hard wood floors with these with better finish than the indurial machines.
View attachment 77640 The hub. I like birch cement forming wood. A good marine plywood is also good.
Keep it flat on the surface and hang on as its going to pull you around.

Forgot to mention when the paper is NFG just glue another on top of this paper.
You can do a 4-6 layer cookie then peal it clean it with gas or thinner and start again.

Great job everyone and keep up the good work.

Thanks for the tips!
I have a Makita 3-1/4 " planer and a 6" disk grinder, so I have a good start!
Now if I can get to where my initial cut looks like yours...


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[Hammered]

Steve is Hammered.

Paragon I don't your name.

Watched your vids.
Well done.
I'm sure everyone else appreciate the time you took to load and educate.
I noticed you didn't have any cigerettes or booze!
You had shorts so brownie points.
I didn't knotice if you had your safety Sandler on.

Forward motion is the only way.
If you drag it back it tends to go sideways and you loose control.
I watched the videos you posted and you have it down.

Your right about saw size.
I have used a 43cc with 16" bar.
60cc plus is better though.
28" -32" bar is my personal favorite but depends on the tree.
The 3120 has a 42 " normally and works really good but use this only on big logs to split or big slabbing work.
It's a handful freehand but works great but puts a burn on the back and forarms.

I noticed speed.
You will get faster.
Maybe nock a hair off the rakers.
You should have curls coming out.


I will try a post a vid mid week of me ripping some teak up the Rd.
I should have done this at the start but camera shy.
Here's a whole other thing that I will have running this week.
I was hung over today and didn't feel like mounting the 3120 head on it.
Mañana maybe?