What’s saw is in the package? An ooerr44 arctic

[00wyk]

Yeah, I wouldn't think you'd notice any difference. You measure the gap between the piston and wrist?

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Err no I didn’t, but not really sure what your asking. Edit, the wrist to crown height ?
I did look at the gap between the conrod and piston, approx 3 to 5mm each side.

I will be going back into this saw after 3/4 tanks of fuel...just to be sure everything is good. Maybe to give it some more intake ..

I'm still waiting for the crank seals, if I had them...I would had it running by now.

 

[00wyk]

3mm+ per side is sloppy work, Meteor. I looked at mine earlier, and it is one simple process to grind out the channel for the rod. All meteor have to do is go with a different number on that axis. Just sloppy and lazy, Meteor.

ETA, looked at it closely. It appears the casting from the 12mm pistons might not have enough meat left on them before machining the gap. Maybe they would have to make a new mould. Still a bit gay.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I’ve had it for ages and want to hear and see it run so the next best thing is.....some pics,,,

I'm getin itchy waiting for the muff and seals.
There still a few things to do, like dye or paint the white plastic black behind the starter cover. Give the covers and handle a polish . Put some new stickers on. Also find a few screws I’ve seemed to have lost


.. Oh yes the lovely new 20” bar and chain (I didn’t see the point of fitting a new chain for a pic..) is thanks to @AlfA01 from the thanksgiving thread. A Big Thanks goes to Dan.

 

[AlfA01]

I’ve had it for ages and want to hear and see it run so the next best thing is.....some pics,,,

I'm getin itchy waiting for the muff and seals.
There still a few things to do, like dye or paint the white plastic black behind the starter cover. Give the covers and handle a polish . Put some new stickers on. Also find a few screws I’ve seemed to have lost


.. Oh yes the lovely new 20” bar and chain (I didn’t see the point of fitting a new chain for a pic..) is thanks to @AlfA01 from the thanksgiving thread. A Big Thanks goes to Dan.

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Nice Sean. Did you try the oil? It was the freshest pressed we had the moment. Best on salads....too early for cooking with it.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

No I haven’t tried the oil just yet,, I’m dreaming of ways to use it. It looks very nice. Thankyou.

Maybe tomorrow I’m going to try it with this, it’s very nice with bread and olive oil.. and I will try the oil with just the bread.

 

[MG porting]

I’ve had it for ages and want to hear and see it run so the next best thing is.....some pics,,,

I'm getin itchy waiting for the muff and seals.
There still a few things to do, like dye or paint the white plastic black behind the starter cover. Give the covers and handle a polish . Put some new stickers on. Also find a few screws I’ve seemed to have lost


.. Oh yes the lovely new 20” bar and chain (I didn’t see the point of fitting a new chain for a pic..) is thanks to @AlfA01 from the thanksgiving thread. A Big Thanks goes to Dan.

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View attachment 212499

Looks good

 

[00wyk]

So, I had 3 saws on my bench today. Unfortunately, I only was able to address one. My printer died, so no porting Andrew's saws until I get a new degree wheel printed up, or find the one I left down south in Waterford when I am there. But I did find time to pull the 10mm 044 apart.

Here's the before and after:

Cylinder cleaned up easily - it was just carbon - no real damage to the plating.

Now for some numbers:
No idea what the timings are - printer is dead. But I never was going to change it. I only widened the ports, removed the lips from the lower transfers, ground out the exhaust some(you can see it in the second image).

Cylinder is a MAHLE 6+. So plus signs all over da place.

The wrist pin length on the Meteor is 33.8mm. On the OEM it is 34.9.
Piston gap for the con rod is 13.4mm for my MAHLE OEM piston. 15.2 for the Meteor.
So that's a cozy gap average of .9mm each side after installation. Not enough for the bearings to show themselves.
But still annoying.
Piston weight - OEM 75g. Meteor 78g(without rings). I didn't bother modding it.

After I got it together, I realised she was LOUD from the get go. Like maybe too much timing advance loud. She sounds like a piped saw. Well, OK, I did open up the front exhaust port by about 33%. I also was suspecting it might be a bit lean, so richened it up some. Still, when I went to start her for her third heat cycle today, she tried to snatch the handle from my grip. Unfortunately, the 044 was unsuccessful, and I held on, but the starter pawl paid the price. So, no 3rd heat cycle yet. I did rev her a little during the 2nd cycle, and she is very eager. Looking forwards to putting her to wood.

 

[MG porting]

So, I had 3 saws on my bench today. Unfortunately, I only was able to address one. My printer died, so no porting Andrew's saws until I get a new degree wheel printed up, or find the one I left down south in Waterford when I am there. But I did find time to pull the 10mm 044 apart.

Here's the before and after:

Cylinder cleaned up easily - it was just carbon - no real damage to the plating.

Now for some numbers:
No idea what the timings are - printer is dead. But I never was going to change it. I only widened the ports, removed the lips from the lower transfers, ground out the exhaust some(you can see it in the second image). Cylinder is a MAHLE 6+. So plus signs all over da place.

The wrist pin length on the Meteor is 33.8mm. On the OEM it is 34.9.
Piston gap for the con rod is 13.4mm for my MAHLE OEM piston. 15.2 for the Meteor.
So that's a cozy gap average of .9mm each side after installation. Not enough for the bearings to show themselves.
But still annoying.
Piston weight - OEM 75g. Meteor 78g(without rings). I didn't bother modding it.

After I got it together, I realised she was LOUD from the get go. Like maybe too much timing advance loud. She sounds like a piped saw. Well, OK, I did open up the front exhaust port by about 33%. I also was suspecting it might be a bit lean, so richened it up some. Still, when I went to start her for her third heat cycle today, she tried to snatch the handle from my grip. Unfortunately, the 044 was unsuccessful, and I held on, but the starter pawl paid the price. So, no 3rd heat cycle yet. I did rev her a little during the 2nd cycle, and she is very eager. Looking forwards to putting her to wood.

Sounds like a good old 044 to me. Lol

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Very interesting I'm bouncing on the edge of my seat... I don’t suppose you got any more pics of int/exh & trannies

It maybe a few days before I start mine.. my exhaust is in Heathrow this morning (from tracking info)

 

[Wonkydonkey]

The postie was good and early today.. so I took advantage of the time I had. To get it back together...

I took 19thou off the key. Hopefully I advanced it, but there is a chance it moved as I was tightening it up..

I tuned it fat and I did 3 heat cycles. However with the wood I had I just used a 18” duromatic bar..with a newish chain. And found some metal in it at some point or 3

The other vids are loading

 

[00wyk]

Looks cute with that bar. You break your elasto start?

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Yes the cheapest darn elasto start that I re strung the wrong way. To the way that I should have, then it would have lasted more than just a few pulls.
Then I tried to grab the cord and it bit me, I think that’s when I swore..
I guess you all know, it was a lot of oil burning off from assembly.
The heated handles did not work,, I will have to have a read about how to test it for voltage and what resistance it should have.

Here’s the Second vid, nothing special but its early days.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I allowed the saw to tickover before and after the cuts. I also had a blower on tickover blowing in the the starter housing to assist in some more helpful cooling when the saw was switched off.. for the heat cycles
Here’s a pic of some metal I found, I did not have the time to file it all out of the teeth. And just as well I didn’t bother as I found more in later cuts.

Pic of nail/metal not loading, will edit later.

3rd run

 

[Wonkydonkey]

And the last run, chip slinging in ya face

 

[00wyk]

Yeah, ya can prolly lean her out a bit now.
She's a good lookin saw!

 

[MG porting]

Definitely got her running fat on the high end sounds good though great job she looks goooood.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I forgot the tacho.. next time thou.. and with a good chain..and not with the duromatic bar. I’ve made this mistake before, tuning for a duromatic then fitting a rollermatic ( it change the tune and went lean iirc,)

put a few more tanks throu it.

Work still to do,,,
I got some new oem clutch springs to fit.
Sort out the slight fuel leak (prolly from the fuel line going into the tank)
Sort out the tank breather,,, it works but it leaks when tipped to the left.
Think about why the arctic heating is not working, and try fix it..

I ve got a bottle of rit dye (black) to dye the plastics that I can remove. Ie chain break spring cover, under the chain/clutch cover. starter housing plastic air guide for flywheel. and I got some new AM covers coming (after Xmas). So I shall do all plastics at once.

So with the AM plastics, I will have to go with the HD air filter setup. I guess I will see how it changes the rpms etc.
I can always revert to the oem plastics setup...

And lastly check all is well with the cylinder and piston, maybe give it a bit more of a tickle while I’m in there..

 

[MG porting]

I forgot the tacho.. next time thou.. and with a good chain..and not with the duromatic bar. I’ve made this mistake before, tuning for a duromatic then fitting a rollermatic ( it change the tune and went lean iirc,)

put a few more tanks throu it.

Work still to do,,,
I got some new oem clutch springs to fit.
Sort out the slight fuel leak (prolly from the fuel line going into the tank)
Sort out the tank breather,,, it works but it leaks when tipped to the left.
Think about why the arctic heating is not working, and try fix it..

I ve got a bottle of rit dye (black) to dye the plastics that I can remove. Ie chain break spring cover, under the chain/clutch cover. starter housing plastic air guide for flywheel. and I got some new AM covers coming (after Xmas). So I shall do all plastics at once.

So with the AM plastics, I will have to go with the HD air filter setup. I guess I will see how it changes the rpms etc.
I can always revert to the oem plastics setup...

And lastly check all is well with the cylinder and piston, maybe give it a bit more of a tickle while I’m in there..

If you're going to put the HD filter setup on your saw I would highly recommend keeping it on it just retune the carb it's going to make more power and that's what you want. And lol don't tease the saw with your fingers now.

 

[00wyk]

We must have the same muffler, yours sounds a lot like mine at idle.
Say what ya like about STihl dealers back stateside, my local guy just charged me €8 for a freaking starter pawl set and spring.
I'm gonna stock up from Hutzl now.

BTW, even though I didn't really add any timing to the intake, I sort of did. The intake on these are very curved and lopsided. I evened it out on each side and made the bottom of the port more flat. It actually was a decent amount of grinding. So though it may not have much more timing as far as the degree wheel might find, it actually opens up a lot more of the port a lot earlier. Well, I guess what I did was add duration