High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

What’s saw is in the package? An ooerr44 arctic

00wyk

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Wow 9 grams. That's a lot of aluminum. Or is it Aluminium? Anwho... no one seems to say it matters much tho.
 

huskyboy

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A saw usually vibrates a bit more with a heavier piston from my experiences. I bet if you cleaned the flash out of the windows it’ll be darned close to oem weight...
 

MG porting

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Some more bananas for fruit box in the link below, I’m trying to get my head around the intake, leave it at stock or lower it a little...

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/sthil-044-transfer-height.209978/
That's all in what you want your power band at lower the intake and your power band will move up but you will loose a little bit of torque down low so if you plan on running a bar 28" to 32" I would leave the intake alone other than make it a smidge wider but note this if you do a base gasket delete it's going to lower the intake a little bit which is not a big deal it's not moving it down to much.
 

Wonkydonkey

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Thanks for making it a lot clearer, @MG porting. there’s more than one way to do things and some things you do you can't undo so easily ;).

So it’s bearing fitting time in the cases soon, there in the freezer now..
In the meantime, I pulled the lower unstuck ring off the old trashed piston. I wanted to see if the trans ports were even etc. However I can’t believe how this saw ran at all with a ring gap of this size :risas3:.. 0.0965 ish
7BE07309-7240-4F05-B181-BB684B58B50A.jpeg
 

MG porting

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Thanks for making it a lot clearer, @MG porting. there’s more than one way to do things and some things you do you can't undo so easily ;).

So it’s bearing fitting time in the cases soon, there in the freezer now..
In the meantime, I pulled the lower unstuck ring off the old trashed piston. I wanted to see if the trans ports were even etc. However I can’t believe how this saw ran at all with a ring gap of this size :risas3:.. 0.0965 ish
View attachment 210938
Yea that's a tun of gap there is the steps in the rig ends for the location pins or are the ring ends flat at the end top and bottom of the ring??
 

00wyk

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A saw usually vibrates a bit more with a heavier piston from my experiences. I bet if you cleaned the flash out of the windows it’ll be darned close to oem weight...

I just removed 15 grams from a flywheel, and I don't dare remove much more. Aluminums isn't very dense. The piston must be thicker all around.
 

Wonkydonkey

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Umm, Fly wheels need to be balanced. That’s why they have them drilled holes in the back. And I thought they helped with torque..

It’s a bit like a car with and unbalanced wheel,, hit a speed and the wheel wobbles till you get passed it or slow down a bit.

I think pistons are a bit more laxed, but could be wrong
 

00wyk

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Umm, Fly wheels need to be balanced. That’s why they have them drilled holes in the back. And I thought they helped with torque..

It’s a bit like a car with and unbalanced wheel,, hit a speed and the wheel wobbles till you get passed it or slow down a bit.

I think pistons are a bit more laxed, but could be wrong

What I was trying to convey is I had to grind off a large amount of aluminum to get 15 grams. So much so I was afraid for the strength and integrity of the flywheel(though this is admittedly a small 43cc saw). Grinding off 9 grams on a piston is not likely just 'removing flash.' You got to really get in there to remove 9 grams of aluminum from something like a 50mm piston.
 

Wonkydonkey

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Yes... I’ve had a grindin session :risas3:

I only took 3G off so far. yes a could take more, but a little at a time. Once it’s gone... it an't going back... 9g off is a lot & not leavin a lot for the inexperienced :rolleyes:
I think I could get a total 5g's but I'm not sure how it would end :(.. prolly ok but the gain to the wieght loss is difficult to assess with overal longevity...

So it's better to just clean up and see what’s gone , and not to look at how much you can/want to take.

After all, when your at the front and someone is pushing you. your the one to fall and it hurts when you fall :( In many ways..;)...
 

Wonkydonkey

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While I’m here, I’ve been looking at other threads here and around.

One thing that has come up with these saws, is if you change out the air filter to the HD filter they run better... so much better... one would think that the arctic filter I have would work well. As do other winter/arctic do.
However, I think I see the bottle neck in this air filter setup to carb components.
In the pic below the spit back/baffle (that don’t really happen in this 72* saw) is the bottle neck..as it fits more snuggly than any other saw that I’ve seen...?
9C93AC53-4BF7-43B9-B6F4-5F5B07689D4D.jpeg
 

Basher

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While I’m here, I’ve been looking at other threads here and around.

One thing that has come up with these saws, is if you change out the air filter to the HD filter they run better... so much better... one would think that the arctic filter I have would work well. As do other winter/arctic do.
However, I think I see the bottle neck in this air filter setup to carb components.
In the pic below the spit back/baffle (that don’t really happen in this 72* saw) is the bottle neck..as it fits more snuggly than any other saw that I’ve seen...?
View attachment 211002

Run better, how so?
 

00wyk

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I think they mean it filters better? I dunno anyone that's done any real test, tho.
I have owned both, and I can say I didn't notice a difference in power. And unless the saw is abused, I didn't see much difference in fines.

This is a mostly stock 044 10mm with a simple timing advance and dual port muffler. No porting. Hard seasoned red oak, 2 feet of bar, semi chisel chain. Sounds like mebbe 12K or so in the wood. It is a much stronger saw than any of the 372's I have owned.

 

Wonkydonkey

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Run better, how so?

It would seem the part I ringed in red fits snugly and would cause a restriction of air flow.

I can’t seem to find the thread where someone said change to the hd filter. But if and when I find it I will link to it..



I’ve finished grinding the piston as far as I want to go. I got it down to 81g with rings, it was hard to tell how much the oem weighed when new, as mine was well worn..
 

Wonkydonkey

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I got the bearings in the cases the other night. The cases were in the oven (gas mark4)
Bearings and crank in freezer over night, I took the pto side out first. While wearing chainsaw gloves I located and held the oil pump in place, then dropped the bearing in. After a few mins I made sure the bearing had warmed enough to not move. The case & bearing went back in the oven.
I did the flywheel wheel side, but the bearing took longer to warm and stay in place, it’s not as a tight fit as the pto side. Anyhow case and bearing went in the oven

15mins later out came the crank from the freezer, I got the flywheel side out from the heat. The crank dropped in place. Gasket was fitted, case screws were on hand, then the pto side came out and fitted very easily. I secured the 2 half’s with the screws and made sure the crank was centred. One tap from the brass hammer and all was well

I took the timing on two different occasions, to be sure and got the squish this time.
E20618FA-3C9A-4E11-9125-01B01E7DDA31.jpeg
Open. ——— Close
Exhaust 103/4.——-257
Int. 71\2.———-72
Trans. 122.———-233
Squish 19 thou on one side and 17.5 thou on the other

The squish was a bit thin on one side and would like to take it again after cleaning the carbon off, although there was not a lot in the top of the cylinder, also i had to use the old wrist pin bearing. I’m still waiting for a new wrist pin bearing.
 
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MG porting

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I got the bearings in the cases the other night. The cases were in the oven (gas mark4)
Bearings and crank in freezer over night, I took the pto side out first. While wearing chainsaw gloves I located and held the oil pump in place, then dropped the bearing in. After a few mins I made sure the bearing had warmed enough to not move. The case & bearing went back in the oven.
I did the flywheel wheel side, but the bearing took longer to warm and stay in place, it’s not as a tight fit as the pto side. Anyhow case and bearing went in the oven

15mins later out came the crank from the freezer, I got the flywheel side out from the heat. The crank dropped in place. Gasket was fitted, case screws were on hand, then the pto side came out and fitted very easily. I secured the 2 half’s with the screws and made sure the crank was centred. One tap from the brass hammer and all was well

I took the timing on two different occasions, to be sure and got the squish this time.
View attachment 211396
Open. ——— Close
Exhaust 103/4.——-257
Int. 71\2.———-72
Trans. 122.———-233
Squish 19 thou on one side and 17.5 thou on the other

The squish was a bit thin on one side and would like to take it again after cleaning the carbon off, although there was not a lot in the top of the cylinder, also i had to use the old wrist pin bearing. I’m still waiting for a new wrist pin bearing.
It will run strong with those timing numbers.
 
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