High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

What's on your bench?

huskihl

Muh fingers look really big
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K I got the circlip in.
Took some manhandling and my trusty ice pick.
I bent one and was trying real hard not to f the other.

I thank you for the help.
I Saw the vshape screw driver and I like it.

I had this saw assembled and running.
It’s my 1st real tear down.

It passed vac and pressure tests and ran, then I thought better of it.
and I replaced a questionable circlip, adjusted ignition coil with a business card, and replaced a dodgy decomp.

Still holds pressure.
Won’t hold vacuum.

Wtf?!?!

I really want this saw done.
Vacuum is probably sucking the decomp in.
 

dustinwilt68

Wilt Built Work Saws
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Got these two built last night, the 254 got split, new seals,bearings, gasket and a oem piston and a hda87 carb. The 261 got upgraded to a 262 piston and muffler I had here have another hda87 for it but I have to take it apart and put the new kit in it first, for now I trimmed the limiters on the 144. Pic is in my garage cause it was raining to hard to adjust them outside and my shop is in my basement.IMG-20180918-WA0000.jpeg
 

JohnnyBlade

JUST GONNA SEND IT
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I used it a couple times but since then I never have. Collects alot of debris in the bearings with the grease.
See i was thinking the same thing.....but is the manufactuer saying bar oil is purely not enough to lube the nose sprocket? Im on the fence about this one. Its like a good maintenance vs bad maintenance topic.
 

Onan18

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I don't lubricate bar sprockets … period!

IMO, use a good bar oil and you should be fine. I like the TS stuff, now $7/gal (used to be $6), but still a great deal. I have cases of it.


I believe Steve was referring to the clutch drum bearing needing to be greased periodically. Husqvarna drills the crankshafts on most of their saws so that you can use a greaser with a tip on it to give that bearing a shot of grease every time you have the clutch cover off, On every Stihl I have ever seen you have to remove the clutch drum and grease the bearing by hand.
 

wcorey

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Anybody try an hd12 on a 261/262...?

hd12.JPG

I converted/ported a 261 about 4 years ago and was somewhat underwhelmed with how it performed and just shelved it.
I finally pulled it back out to see what I could do with it, first thing was to ditch the 'little' hda 144 that was all I had available at the time.

I'm still short one carb for my pile of 261/262 projects, particularly with the bigger bore hda87's, but do have a couple 87's on running saws.
So I swapped one in and it did make a noticeable difference, so then on to find a permanent solution with something I'd have on hand.

An hd 12 bolts right up and the 261 throttle linkage goes right on and works fine in an existing hole with a few very minor tweeks to the wire. The h, l and la adjusters are upside down but still accessible through the existing holes.
372 choke lever sorta works through the heated handle switch hole, though it will work great with a notch in the top cover.
Air cleaner horn needs to be clearanced for the choke butterfly.

Biggest issue is the impulse, could've put a barb on the stock intake block or cylinder but didn't want to alter that stuff just to see if the carb worked out. Decided to make a quick n dirty belt sander/drill press/die grinder intake block, was surprisingly quick and easy.

My preliminary finding is that it performs as good or better than the hda 87, is available as cheap/aftermarket and hey, it's biggerer.
Just another option...
 
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MG porting

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What the heck is going on with Ope took a hour to get on here this morning.
 

MG porting

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I guess it's not safe to be on here right now for some reason? Mastermind have any ideas what's going on? It has something to do with the https.
 

Fruecrue

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