High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

What's on your bench?

backhoelover

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acornhill

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picked this up yesterday


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Tor R

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The boring bar’s cutter sticks out, about 1/8” away from the bar itself. I’ll get a pic in a minute.

After you get the jug all squared up, a process that take me about 30 min all in, you find the side wall of the jug, set that as zero, go up to the band, set that as zero in the other axis, the back off both and turn lathe on.

Next I bring cuter to band at -.001, then pull bar back into sidewall -.003. Then I bring boring bar down into band and start to cut, generally .010 until the final cut, which is .003. Remember, this is all happening above the top ring. So an extra .003 of space won’t hurt a thing.

One things for sure. Until you start to cut bands on a lathe, you don’t realize that the factory bands are off. The bore is generally perfectly square to the jug base, but the side walls of the jug where the plating ends and the band itself are routinely out by .001-.002.

This ones for you @Tor R

Two different bars I use. One is rotated wrong on the holder, I know guys.

View attachment 100482 View attachment 100483 View attachment 100484 View attachment 100485 View attachment 100486
thanks Al.
 

Tor R

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when you get a chance tor can you open them up lay them out and take another pics?
_DSC4347.jpg
They used to be cheaper last year, I belive Husky has jacked up the prices by quite a bit this year. Ruffly 25$ for a kit nowadays, used to be around 15-18$ before, I don't complain with the 25$ price either.

I got two splitters (the 570/575/576 splitter was ordered by mistake), ordered the 550 splitter last week + seal protector for 266.
_DSC4348.jpg

Crank mounting tools in system:
_DSC4329.jpg
The 444 kit socket is at a friend of me who lathe out a new one. It's a kit who is NLA, only got the socket but the 2 taps are the same as 242 use. He also lathe out 3 other sockets that I will mostly use, 6201, 6202, 6203 sockets (they are gone be placed to the right side of my tool plank :D
The kits I miss is 502 50 30 02 (180 serie) and 502 50 30 09 and 12 who is for the 40/45/50/51/55 serie, and 502 50 30 20 who is for 570/575/576 serie (doubt I will buy them in), kit 502 50 30 - 01, 03, 05, 06 is NLA.
I was dissapointed with the 502 50 30 04 kit (266), the one I would liked to have is the one with 1/2" UNC PTO tap.
 

Dub11

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I'm gonna take the muffler off tomorrow and see how bad it is, I'll check the intake boot while I'm at it but I have to tear it down anyway..
If you don't make it a 5105 the 510p/c is only a few bucks more than just the 510 piston. At least thats what I was told.
 

backhoelover

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View attachment 100610
They used to be cheaper last year, I belive Husky has jacked up the prices by quite a bit this year. Ruffly 25$ for a kit nowadays, used to be around 15-18$ before, I don't complain with the 25$ price either.

I got two splitters (the 570/575/576 splitter was ordered by mistake), ordered the 550 splitter last week + seal protector for 266.
View attachment 100613

Crank mounting tools in system:
View attachment 100614
The 444 kit socket is at a friend of me who lathe out a new one. It's a kit who is NLA, only got the socket but the 2 taps are the same as 242 use. He also lathe out 3 other sockets that I will mostly use, 6201, 6202, 6203 sockets (they are gone be placed to the right side of my tool plank :D
The kits I miss is 502 50 30 02 (180 serie) and 502 50 30 09 and 12 who is for the 40/45/50/51/55 serie, and 502 50 30 20 who is for 570/575/576 serie (doubt I will buy them in), kit 502 50 30 - 01, 03, 05, 06 is NLA.
I was dissapointed with the 502 50 30 04 kit (266), the one I would liked to have is the one with 1/2" UNC PTO tap.


thats cheap my cheapest was 38.99 and highest was 75.99 tools for the new k series huskys is crazy!!! the tool to remove and install the drive bearing on the k series is around 200.00
 

backhoelover

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View attachment 100610
They used to be cheaper last year, I belive Husky has jacked up the prices by quite a bit this year. Ruffly 25$ for a kit nowadays, used to be around 15-18$ before, I don't complain with the 25$ price either.

I got two splitters (the 570/575/576 splitter was ordered by mistake), ordered the 550 splitter last week + seal protector for 266.
View attachment 100613

Crank mounting tools in system:
View attachment 100614
The 444 kit socket is at a friend of me who lathe out a new one. It's a kit who is NLA, only got the socket but the 2 taps are the same as 242 use. He also lathe out 3 other sockets that I will mostly use, 6201, 6202, 6203 sockets (they are gone be placed to the right side of my tool plank :D
The kits I miss is 502 50 30 02 (180 serie) and 502 50 30 09 and 12 who is for the 40/45/50/51/55 serie, and 502 50 30 20 who is for 570/575/576 serie (doubt I will buy them in), kit 502 50 30 - 01, 03, 05, 06 is NLA.
I was dissapointed with the 502 50 30 04 kit (266), the one I would liked to have is the one with 1/2" UNC PTO tap.


what did the splitter for the 570 etc run you?
 

Tor R

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This is how she was before cleaning...... 353 year 06:
_DSC4330.jpg

And she is finished, had to do a oil hose modd to prevent bar oil leak, re ringed, head gasket, plug, filter, fuel hose, rimm, airfilter. Ain't a good time to sell her before xmas, best to wait for the new year ;)
_DSC4352.jpg

I gave up this one for the moment, help preasure like a champ, but it was a no go on the vacuum, just 3 psi due seals. it's a shame really, hardly used.
I just gotta find some quality aftermarked seal&bearing combo, not spending 60$ on a saw like this, if I did then it should be a keeper, I'm not a 3xx serie fan!
_DSC4350.jpg

Inside 5xx xpg front handle bar......
_DSC4346.jpg
the heat element is far smarter (several places where the heath elements has wide sections) compared against the 3xx element (they had only a few stripes, actually 3xx used the same elements as we found back in the 80's lol)
 

MustangMike

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So, the MMWS 10 mm 044 I sold to a local tree guy came back briefly. Seems the only way to shut the saw off was to use the choke. I thought maybe a wire came loose, but when I started to take it apart I found the problem. Some wood chips accumulated under the control rod (choke lever), preventing the control lever from going into the stop position.

Blew it out with the air compressor, changed the air filter, and it was good to go. Only the owner uses that saw, mostly from the bucket, and he loves it. Says it has more power than a 460 but with much less weight, and since he had some tendinitis in his elbow, he just thinks that saw is great!

He uses that saw every day, but it still looks to be in great shape. I'm glad it is getting used so much, plus taken care of.
 
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