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What's on your bench?

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What are the other codes? Like P06xx?
If so, those are typically ECM death codes.
You didnt happen to remove any ground wires or the like while you were in there, did you?

This is what I was going to say. Joe, check and make sure the grounds are clean and have good connection in the harness. Verify the alternator voltage regulator is outputting within spec, low voltage spikes will cause those codes as well.
 

Onan18

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This is what I was going to say. Joe, check and make sure the grounds are clean and have good connection in the harness. Verify the alternator voltage regulator is outputting within spec, low voltage spikes will cause those codes as well.


I verified battery voltage and alternator output last night. Thought while I was doing the hard reset i would pull the TIPM and clean all of the connections and all grounds.

Guys this is great, thanks tor all of your help. I am just about at my whitts end with this German monstrosity.
 

redline4

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I will have to check my notes when I get home this evening, don't remember for sure. Only ground wire I removed was the battery lead. I am really beginning to suspect that it is a computer failure just not sure which one (TIPM, ECM, PCM, etc...)

Get me the codes, I should be able to get you some schematics and trouble charts.
Being at a GM dealer, I have better access to the generals stuff, but we use an aftermarket deal for the used stuff we get and the random other manufacturer vehicle we see.
 

Dub11

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I verified battery voltage and alternator output last night. Thought while I was doing the hard reset i would pull the TIPM and clean all of the connections and all grounds.

Guys this is great, thanks tor all of your help. I am just about at my whitts end with this German monstrosity.

1. Get full coverage.
2. Move out of sight of any cameras
3.Douse in gasoline.
4. Start grinding some steel near by.
5. Collect money.
 

tickbitintn

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Check engine light in Dads Pacifica came back on. Scanned it and there are twelve error codes. Four are related to the idle air control valve (no biggie, $60.00 part and easy to get to) but the other eight I have never heard of and could not find any information about online. Saying things like VIN number mismatch or not found and body type not found. All seems to be electrical, going to try a hard reset today after work but not overly optimistic. I am relly nervous that the TIPM is beginning to fail, over $800.00 at the dealer and no AM solutions.
Try pricing one for a second gen RAV 4....
Google "RAV4 ecm transmission".

Have replaced wife's 3 times, died again bought her a newer SUV, still sitting in the driveway...

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
 

Dub11

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Try pricing one for a second gen RAV 4....
Google "RAV4 ecm transmission".

Have replaced wife's 3 times, died again bought her a newer SUV, still sitting in the driveway...

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

My 91 Accord had the same problem. It kept popping a capasitor. Found out on a forum that you could put a bigger one in there and it fixed it.
 

tickbitintn

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I sent the last ecm off to be remanufactured by a place in FL it lasted 1 mi the first time, 600 miles the second time and the "final straw" lasted about 60 miles.

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tickbitintn

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I was thinking of trying a different place but the few I looked into all wanted an "unopened factory" ecm and I no longer have that.

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My 91 Accord had the same problem. It kept popping a capasitor. Found out on a forum that you could put a bigger one in there and it fixed it.

I did that soldering job for 5-6 people. The oversize capacitor was sold at RadioShack, something like 10 for $3. $50 for 10 minutes to solder in a $0.35 part.
 

Dub11

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I did that soldering job for 5-6 people. The oversize capacitor was sold at RadioShack, something like 10 for $3. $50 for 10 minutes to solder in a $0.35 part.

Lol that's where I got the parts at. But I was lucky enough to have the computer tech guy at my job solder it.
 

Deets066

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Re worked a Cross 660, raised the Exhaust a bit, lowered the intake a bit, and advanced the timing a bit more. I think it feels pretty good now!

Also added some timing advance on one of my Asian Big Bores and Changed the muffler configuration a bit on another. I know I buck the trend when I don't always thing that more open is better, but we will see how they do at the CT GTG.
Muffler opening isn’t much different than port timing or how certain people grind a port. Everyone does what works for them or intended use.
Work saws that are gunna live at a lower rpm don’t need as much opening. Higher rpm saws require a little extra to make good power up that high
 

Johnmn

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On my bench, side of the road, same difference.
So in driving home last night and all of a sudden I see white smoke in my mirror.
I pull over to find tranny fluid pouring out of the front of the transmission! Boy do I hate vehicles!
 
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On my bench, side of the road, same difference.
So in driving home last night and all of a sudden I see white smoke in my mirror.
I pull over to find tranny fluid pouring out of the front of the transmission! Boy do I hate vehicles!

That’snever good
 

Stump Shot

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While prepping this saw yesterday for first fire and test and tune I discovered it was locked up. Which was really strange, turned out was a too long of a fastener in the top cover(saw had missing screws). It went right between the fins of the flywheel. Doh! :eusa_doh:

IMG-20190514-WA0009.jpeg
 
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While prepping this saw yesterday for first fire and test and tune I discovered it was locked up. Which was really strange, turned out was a too long of a fastener in the top cover(saw had missing screws). It went right between the find of the flywheel. Doh! :eusa_doh:

View attachment 181804

Remember that time i lost a recoil bolt so i grabbed another out of the parts bin and fired up the saw? Remember where I found that missing bolt? Yup, laying in a pile of broken plastic flywheel fins inside the recoil. Consider yourself luckier than I.
 

MustangMike

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Saw looks real nice, and I love that sticker!

Yea, on a lot of the Stihls the recoil bolts are the same diameter (but just a little bit longer) than the top cover bolts … gotta be careful to keep em straight!

Glad you found the problem w/o any damage, but that kinda stuff can really scare you!
 

Backtroller

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I have the @Deets066 Christmas saw on the bench. I switched the plastics and went through the carb. The grinding on it is beautiful.

I fought with the tunning until I called my buddy Al. He suggested removing the plugged compensating carb diaphragm cover since it’s running a non compensating air filter. There was no interference with the top cover but the ear plug in the snorkel must have been touching the diaphragm.

I cut the snorkel off and jb welded it. I’m waiting for it to dry and I’ll drill my hole.

She seems to be a runner. Spools up quickly and runs great at 14,800-15,100. I’m sending it north with a buddy this weekend to give it a shake down. 7FC6A842-8194-4A4E-9E9E-86310B516EA9.jpeg293DF7EA-CADF-4D25-BAD7-7F8B34EE2AF7.jpeg47A32D13-134F-4298-852E-01F2590BFF84.jpeg67ECB0B2-AACA-4F05-A1D8-EDC4D7CD7F70.jpeg
 
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Stump Shot

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Remember that time i lost a recoil bolt so i grabbed another out of the parts bin and fired up the saw? Remember where I found that missing bolt? Yup, laying in a pile of broken plastic flywheel fins inside the recoil. Consider yourself luckier than I.
Saw looks real nice, and I love that sticker!

Yea, on a lot of the Stihls the recoil bolts are the same diameter (but just a little bit longer) than the top cover bolts … gotta be careful to keep em straight!

Glad you found the problem w/o any damage, but that kinda stuff can really scare you!

Difference of only 3/16".
 
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