High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

What setting was altered in this clip

XP_Slinger

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Crank what setting, As the saw needs two pulls of the choke to start when not even cold,
this saw guy seems to have made matters worse. So will leaning out the top
also make this / starting worse, that’s where am at now.
I think I need to richen up the bottom a bit,
Reason, if I lean the H am not going to be fourstroking much if any
and that concerns me.

Thanks for commenting
When it’s hot, try starting it with just the fast idle set (no choke), if it starts your low end is too rich or your idle is simply too low which can be adjusted with either the idle stop screw or by leaning out the L side. If it doesn’t start richen the Low side 1/4 turn and try startin again. I’m sorry I don’t have the “do this XXX and it will be perfect” answer, that’s just the nature of saw tuning without being there and fiddling with it myself. You have to experiment.
 
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Ford3000

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Start out at 1 1/4 turn out on both screws. Turn in the L until it goes lean then back it out 1/4. Idle should be around 2800. Set the high 12,500 then fine tune in the wood. If it doesn’t run normally after that then you have a problem.
Thanks, before I read the above, I checked the H screw, was three turns out,
I set it to 2 1/4, started up after three pulls on choke two without.
Starts with one pull after just a few revs to check acceleration.
The Low is pretty close to 1 - 1/4 out, the saw man adjusted to 1 - 1/2 as I looked
on, he leaned her only about a 1/4 so again in safe zone.

Am now going to warm up the saw, check idle speed, check WOT
And hoping to be around to 12,900 to 13,ooo, this should still leave me
In the rich zone.

I will report back
 
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Ford3000

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When it’s hot, try starting it with just the fast idle set (no choke), if it starts your low end is too rich or your idle is simply too low which can be adjusted with either the idle stop screw or by leaning out the L side. If it doesn’t start richen the Low side 1/4 turn and try startin again. I’m sorry I don’t have the “do this XXX and it will be perfect” answer, that’s just the nature of saw tuning without being there and fiddling with it myself. You have to experiment.
I will try with half choke when hot, am thinking this is the fast idle you
speak of.

Thanks
 

Ford3000

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Pull the choke out then reset it, fast idle should be set after cycling the choke
I just warmed up the saw, idle is almost 3000,
the WOT is Tipping 13,000 but now the saw bogs as I rev from idle
to WOT, Should I screw out the L until the bog clears up? Or lean the high
a little.
 

huskyboy

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I just warmed up the saw, idle is almost 3000,
the WOT is Tipping 13,000 but now the saw bogs as I rev from idle
to WOT, Should I screw out the L until the bog clears up? Or lean the high
a little.
Richen L 1/8 and see what happens. Does it still 4 stroke at 13?
 

Ford3000

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Richen L 1/8 and see what happens. Does it still 4 stroke at 13?
Yes was four stroking at at 13000, I adjusted the Low out 1/8
before I saw your suggestion,
Bog cleared up, and Wot went up to 13,400 tops,
saw sounds great, idle is very steady at 2500,
but how on earth did riching it up cause the H to lean a little
and rise from 13,000 to 13,400, am guessing more air pulled into cylinder
has caused the lean.
Getting there, saw sounds well, just need to fine tune these parameters.
Given the above rise in WOT, should I richen it up with the H screw
to get back to 13,000, or lean the Low a fraction and richen the H a fraction?
Which of the above should cause most four stroking,?, or is the adding of
a little more fuel to the cylinder all that is called for.


Thanks
 
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XP_Slinger

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Yes was four stroking at at 13000, I adjusted the Low out 3/16
before I saw your suggestion,
Bog cleared up, and Wot went up to 13,400 tops,
saw sounds great, idle is very steady at 2500,
Low could be rich, but how on earth did riching it up cause the H to lean a little
and rise from 13,000 to 13,400, am guessing more air pulled into cylinder
has caused the lean.
Getting there, saw sounds well, just need to fine tune these parameters.
Given the above rise in WOT, should I richen it up with the H screw
to get back to 13,000, or lean the Low a fraction and richen the H a fraction?
Which of the above should cause most four stroking,?, or is the adding of
a little more fuel to the cylinder all that is called for.


Thanks
If it starts good, sounds good and runs good I’d leave it right where it’s at. Don’t be afraid of that number, listen to the saw. If she’s happy then she’s happy.

The high side didn’t get lean because of richening the low side, the lean condition down low was holding the saw back. It’s simply getting the fuel it needs where it wasn’t before. Now that the low side is good, tuning the high side will be much easier and responsive to adjustments.

Glad you got it sorted out bud.
 

Ford3000

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Yes was four stroking at at 13000, I adjusted the Low out 3/16
before I saw your suggestion,
Bog cleared up, and Wot went up to 13,400 tops,
saw sounds great, idle is very steady at 2500,
Low could be rich, but how on earth did riching it up cause the H to lean a little
and rise from 13,000 to 13,400, am guessing more air pulled into cylinder
has caused the lean.
Getting there, saw sounds well, just need to fine tune these parameters.
Given the above rise in WOT, should I richen it up with the H screw
to get back to 13,000, or lean the Low a fraction and richen the H a fraction?
Which of the above should cause most four stroking,?, or is the adding of
a little more fuel to the cylinder all that is called for.


Thanks
Any advise regarding the next move given the above set up?

Anyone, thanks
 

Ford3000

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If it starts good, sounds good and runs good I’d leave it right where it’s at.

The high side didn’t get lean because of richening the low side, the lean condition down low was holding the saw back. It’s simply getting the fuel it needs where it wasn’t before. Now that the low side is good, tuning the high side will be much easier and responsive to adjustments.

Glad she’s sorted out.
Thank you
Am almost happy, just think 13,400 is a little much,
Probably will detract from cutting as it’s bound to be running too far above optimum / peak torque.
Will adjusting the H bring the saw down and make it fourstroke?

Thanks
 
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Deets066

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Thank you
Am almost happy, just think 13,400 is a little much for this new saw,
Probably will detract from cutting as it’s bound to be running too far above optimum / peak torque.
Will adjusting the H bring the saw down and make it fourstroke?

Thanks
I believe you are over thinking this a little, if it idles good, revs good from idle with no bog, and is four stroking at 13,400 then run it.

But to answer your question I would leave the low set where it’s at to keep from bogging off idle and just adjust the H to get wot rpm
 

Ford3000

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I believe you are over thinking this a little, if it idles good, revs good from idle with no bog, and is four stroking at 13,400 then run it.

But to answer your question I would leave the low set where it’s at to keep from bogging off idle and just adjust the H to get wot rpm
Thank you for commenting, I appreciate your answer, am getting
close to what am after, just don’t want to make a wrong move and
fry a new saw when the twist of a screw could prevent it.
 

Ford3000

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Update, saw started well, kicked after three pulls on choke,
Choke off and one pull fired up, when cold this morning,
but bogged as soon as I pulled the trigger, took 1/8 turn to clear
it up,I lifted idle to 2500, let her warm up,
engine is now less stable at idle, going up to 2650 and down to
2450,seconds.
Before clearing up the bog the saw only deviated less than 50
Rpm up or down,
WOT had to be brought back too as it rose.
Will see now how the saw starts cold.
This thing is annoying me, the only good is I am learning
what actions cause what response.
 
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huskihl

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Update, saw started well, kicked after three pulls on choke,
Choke off and one pull fired up, when cold this morning,
but bogged as soon as I pulled the trigger, took 1/8 turn to clear
it up,I lifted idle to 2500, let her warm up,
engine is now less stable at idle, going up to 2650 and down to
2450,seconds.
Before clearing up the bog the saw only deviated less than 50
Rpm up or down,
WOT had to be brought back too as it rose.
Will see now how the saw starts cold.
This thing is annoying me, the only good is I am learning
what actions cause what response.
Are you allowing it to warm up before you're trying to go Full Throttle RPM when it bogs? Most saws when cold won't rev up Wide open without a bog. They need to run 20 or 30 seconds first
 

Ford3000

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Are you allowing it to warm up before you're trying to go Full Throttle RPM when it bogs? Most saws when cold won't rev up Wide open without a bog. They need to run 20 or 30 seconds first
I do allow it to warm before giving it throttle, I was not looking for much
Instant response, only an acceptable response, I do expect a little hesitation till about 30 seconds goes past and a bit of heat builds.

It was going perfect last night, but this morning the bog was there, it won’t take much
to undo the 1/8 turn out I gave the Low and back out the idle until I get the steady
setting I previously had.

Thanks
 
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Ford3000

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Welcome to OPE.
Any chance of a recent video of this saw cutting now at her
final tune, if you have the time, it would be a good comparison.
Am I right in saying there is some smoke off this saw as she cuts in the above clip.

Thanks
 
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