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What setting was altered in this clip

Ford3000

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Hello to all
I have been looking at video since my recent saw purchase,
Trying to learn to adjust the carb,
I found this,
The man was cutting away, then I think an adjustment was made to the
Carb, I hear a change in how it four strokes, does anyone know what
was done to bring this about, am trying to educate myself without
going through the trial and error involved, loosening up carbscrews
that could then move on their own and drive me nuts.

Please help, Thanks
 

Czed

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Hello to all
I have been looking at video since my recent saw purchase,
Trying to learn to adjust the carb,
I found this,
The man was cutting away, then I think an adjustment was made to the
Carb, I hear a change in how it four strokes, does anyone know what
was done to bring this about, am trying to educate myself without
going through the trial and error involved, loosening up carbscrews
that could then move on their own and drive me nuts.

Please help, Thanks
That be @Mastermind
He could probably explain it better.
 

Czed

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Welcome to the site
 

Ford3000

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Hi Czed
Thanks for the welcome.
It would be good to hear what adjustment was made in this
clip, may be the mastermind will see this, if not I hope others with
will add their views.
 

Ford3000

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Carb screws usually have a spring behind them to keep tension. They are not “tight” and should stay in any position.
Yes, but a neighbor of mine had a carb that the screws moved on
Due to his continued tweaking, more like obsessive tweaking,
Just trying to avoid similar.
 
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Ford3000

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Didn’t look like he adjusted the carb at all. Looks like he grabbed a fastac to check rpm is all. When the saw gets warmed up good it will lean out a bit and that’s what it looks like to me.
Thanks for explaining about engine leaning as it heats up.
 

XP_Slinger

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Thanks for explaining about engine leaning as it heats up.
Welcome to OPE.

To make a saw 4 stroke more you would open (turn counter clockwise) the H screw. And conversely if it’s too rich you tighten the H screw to lean it out until desired tune is achieved. You already know to listen for it four stroking which is good, you never want that to go away. Make small adjustments to find your tune, usually 1/8 turn at a time makes enough difference to hear. You should always tune with the saw good and hot because like Deets said they lean out a little when you’re working them. A lot of guys including myself will check tune in the cut by lifting the sawing briefly to check that’s it’s still four strokin. I lift a couple times in this video to check my tune which is ludicrously rich, but on a new topend I start with the tune overly safe...hope this helps

 

Ford3000

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Thanks very much XP_Slinger

I understand what lean is like, I watched a man tuning his saw,
siting on the bench, he warmed it well, thought it was four stroking,
We were talking , he gave it good rev and next thin she booted into
turbo mode, huge puff of what looked like white smoke flew out the exhaust,
He stopped it, I turned a water hose on the barrel, saved the saw,
But in no time the case began to leak, he put all new seals in and the
saw survived, after seeing this I fully understood to never be too close to lean.

I recently set my new 501 echo to 11,400,am cutting bushes with it so this
will keep her from going too fast,there is no way to load the saw with
what am cutting, but it’s too heavy for a trimmer, (sourcing one for after this cut).
Am sure the saw will find a few hundreds revs before am finished,
at which point I will set the rpm to 12,600 for a while and monitor
the performance.
 
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Ford3000

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Here is another question, surprise,
How does a rich low setting affect four stroking,
for example, set the low jet rich enough to start with
minimum of pulls in cold weather, am sure there is a
balance to be had.
 

Czed

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Hi Czed
Thanks for the welcome.
It would be good to hear what adjustment was made in this
clip, may be the mastermind will see this, if not I hope others with
will add their views.
I tune by ear until it cleans out in wood.
i think randy uses a tach.
He's on here a lot a moderator also.
Build/ports saws too.
 

huskihl

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Here is another question, surprise,
How does a rich low setting affect four stroking,
for example, set the low jet rich enough to start with
minimum of pulls in cold weather, am sure there is a
balance to be had.
The L screw setting affects your idle mixture mostly, but it also affects the upper rpm range a little. Maybe 5%. Same for the H screw. It's mostly for full throttle, but a small percentage affects the lower rpm range as well.

In my experience, how easy the saw starts in cold weather or after sitting months at a time, is affected by the H screw setting.
 

XP_Slinger

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Here is another question, surprise,
How does a rich low setting affect four stroking,
for example, set the low jet rich enough to start with
minimum of pulls in cold weather, am sure there is a
balance to be had.
There certainly is a balance between the 2 jets. An adjustment on the low speed jet will change your high side slightly. I always re check (listen to) my high end after makin a Low adjustment.
 

Ford3000

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In my experience, how easy the saw starts in cold weather or after sitting months at a time, is affected by the H screw setting.
Hi huskily
I was not aware the H setting had much to do with choking up to start.
Thought getting the Low right was closely related to starting idling and
then throttle response until the High jet made its presence felt.
 
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XP_Slinger

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In my experience, how easy the saw starts in cold weather or after sitting months at a time, is affected by the H screw setting.
Hi huskily
I was not aware the H setting had much to do with choking up to start.
Thought getting the Low right was closely related to starting idling and
then throttle response until the High jet made its presence felt.
Bingo.

A little forum help to keep fellers talking...if you look to the bottom and right of what someone posted you’ll see the words “Quote” and “Reply” next to it. Hit quote first, then hit reply and it will automatically bring whatever they said into the text field. Then type your response below the quoted post. This will help you out because the person you quoted will get an alert and they will be more likely to respond to your post.
 

huskyboy

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Welcome to OPE.

To make a saw 4 stroke more you would open (turn counter clockwise) the H screw. And conversely if it’s too rich you tighten the H screw to lean it out until desired tune is achieved. You already know to listen for it four stroking which is good, you never want that to go away. Make small adjustments to find your tune, usually 1/8 turn at a time makes enough difference to hear. You should always tune with the saw good and hot because like Deets said they lean out a little when you’re working them. A lot of guys including myself will check tune in the cut by lifting the sawing briefly to check that’s it’s still four strokin. I lift a couple times in this video to check my tune which is ludicrously rich, but on a new topend I start with the tune overly safe...hope this helps

That’s one angry lil bastard
 

Ford3000

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Bingo.

A little forum help to keep fellers talking...if you look to the bottom and right of what someone posted you’ll see the words “Quote” and “Reply” next to it. Hit quote first, then hit reply and it will automatically bring whatever they said into the text field. Then type your response below the quoted post. This will help you out because the person you quoted will get an alert and they will be more likely to respond to your post.
I Will do, never thought this through regarding the poster being notified and hopefully responding.
But I got what was said, I tested it out with a small adjustment to the H,
as I was running rich I screwed it in less than an 1/8, proceeded to start the saw,
No start, I knew the saw was getting plenty on the Low as it had no hesitation
so I nudged up the idle, and she fired right up.
What am I missing here, the saw is difficult to get up in revs to 12,600,
she gets there fast but I had to lean the Low to get there too, and this caused a slight miss or backfire on the way down fromWOT, so I had to screw the Low out slightly to cure this, it’s running fine now, have WOT set to 12,200 on the safe side, can’t seem to go any lower on the Low without introducing that slight
snap on deceleration, like the pop when it’s time to put the choke in.

I followed the echo guidelines and ended up with the above settings,

It went like this,
Turn H out 3 5/8 turns
Turn L out 1 3/4 turns
Start Engine , I already had it warm but let it run to be sure,
Adjust Idle to 3,500 rpm with the Wot at or under 12,500
Then turn Low out until rpm drops to 2,700
Then check and set High jet,

The above resultd in a back fire when decelerating from WOT
so I screwed out the Low to this stopped, and checked the High
leaving it at 12,200, it will lean on out to 12,600 or more if I hold it
Longer, the heat obviously causes this leaning, but am no fan of holding
throttle for more than a second to register on the tachometer.

Still a work in progress.
 

XP_Slinger

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I Will do, never thought this through regarding the poster being notified and hopefully responding.
But I got what was said, I tested it out with a small adjustment to the H,
as I was running rich I screwed it in less than an 1/8, proceeded to start the saw,
No start, I knew the saw was getting plenty on the Low as it had no hesitation
so I nudged up the idle, and she fired right up.
What am I missing here, the saw is difficult to get up in revs to 12,600,
she gets there fast but I had to lean the Low to get there too, and this caused a slight miss or backfire on the way down fromWOT, so I had to screw the Low out slightly to cure this, it’s running fine now, have WOT set to 12,200 on the safe side, can’t seem to go any lower on the Low without introducing that slight
snap on deceleration, like the pop when it’s time to put the choke in.

I followed the echo guidelines and ended up with the above settings,

It went like this,
Turn H out 3 5/8 turns
Turn L out 1 3/4 turns
Start Engine , I already had it warm but let it run to be sure,
Adjust Idle to 3,500 rpm with the Wot at or under 12,500
Then turn Low out until rpm drops to 2,700
Then check and set High jet,

The above resultd in a back fire when decelerating from WOT
so I screwed out the Low to this stopped, and checked the High
leaving it at 12,200, it will lean on out to 12,600 or more if I hold it
Longer, the heat obviously causes this leaning, but am no fan of holding
throttle for more than a second to register on the tachometer.

Still a work in progress.
Strange. Try turning your idle stop screw in a little then repeat your process. Was it still 4 strokin at 12,600? This is my opinion so take it for what’s its worth... a tach gives some nice to know numbers but you should trust your ears when tuning. Your spec says 12.5k but your saw might want to be at 12.9k. Every saw is a little different.
 
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