High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

What oil is best? and what ratio?

Terry Syd

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Andy, the Mobile 1 synthetic was was new at the time. I did add a can of some 'graphite' each time I did change the oil. Perhaps the graphite may have helped the longevity of the engine.

My brother did have to change the oil to some brand of 'racing' petroleum oil in order to get the rings to seat.

I was really surprised when I pulled the engine down. Not only were the hone marks still visible in the cylinder, but the hone marks on the valve stems were still visible.
 

andyshine77

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Well.....

I've got a Dodge Journey that uses oil if I run Mobil 1. On dino oil, it uses none.

Weird huh?
Likely the higher amounts of detergents. A high mileage synthetic oil with seal swellers would be more appropriate.[emoji106] I've had that happen too.
 

Moparmyway

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Sorry but I have to call BS here my friend. All manufacturers recommend breaking in engines with full synthetic. Synthetic oil doesn't lube better, it's just more stable, has better viscosity range, and often better additives. Was Mobil synthetic even available in 78? I don't remember really seeing synthetic oils until The late 80's. The myth of rings not setting because of the oil is just that, something else was at play IMHO.[emoji111]
Ive got to side with Terry on synthetic oil for break-in......
I’ve had a bunch of motors that I’ve rebuilt, or purchased new, 800hp big blocks, 500hp small blocks, 4 stroke dirtbikes, etc ......
All started with synthetic oil, all used and burned oil. The cure ? Run conventional oil for 10-15 hours of use, then switch back to synthetic and no more oil use.

Ive tried time and time again, either I deal with the oil use and smoke for up to 50-60 hours of use, or conventional is needed for break-in.
 

Mastermind

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Likely the higher amounts of detergents. A high mileage synthetic oil with seal swellers would be more appropriate.[emoji106] I've had that happen too.

I stopped using Mobile 1 at about 70,000

Running Castrol GTX now.
 

andyshine77

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Andy, the Mobile 1 synthetic was was new at the time. I did add a can of some 'graphite' each time I did change the oil. Perhaps the graphite may have helped the longevity of the engine.

My brother did have to change the oil to some brand of 'racing' petroleum oil in order to get the rings to seat.

I was really surprised when I pulled the engine down. Not only were the hone marks still visible in the cylinder, but the hone marks on the valve stems were still visible.
I believe in the U.S. synthetic oil came on strong much later than elsewhere in the world. In fact there was even litigation with Castrol about what really is synthetic oil, as there was no standard of ingredients. Castrol was getting away with calling oil with lower base stocks synthetic, and they got into hot water for that, one reason reason Castrol lost credibility and market share here. I believe our standard of what synthetic oil is still lower that that of European countries. Obviously to meet certain requirements the oil hast to be pretty good like the 0W oils and 5w 30 oils. The wider the range normally the higher the synthetic content viscosity modifiers.[emoji111]
 

andyshine77

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Ive got to side with Terry on synthetic oil for break-in......
I’ve had a bunch of motors that I’ve rebuilt, or purchased new, 800hp big blocks, 500hp small blocks, 4 stroke dirtbikes, etc ......
All started with synthetic oil, all used and burned oil. The cure ? Run conventional oil for 10-15 hours of use, then switch back to synthetic and no more oil use.

Ive tried time and time again, either I deal with the oil use and smoke for up to 50-60 hours of use, or conventional is needed for break-in.
Likely something else going on IMHO, it should make zero difference.[emoji111]
 

Terry Syd

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Here's one for you. When I got to Oz back in 1982 they didn't have Mobile 1. When I made some inquiries I was told that Mobile 1 had been banned for 10 YEARS.

The reason was that the synthetic oil wouldn't swell the seals on the engines and the Australian manufactures had problems with their engines leaking synthetic oil out of the seals.

They gave the Ozzie manufacturers 10 years to bring their seals up to spec so they could use a synthetic oil.
 

andyshine77

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I stopped using Mobile 1 at about 70,000

Running Castrol GTX now.
The old school GTX was good stuff, at one time it had loads of zinc "not as much now"[emoji17] I've gotten 200,000+ on engines running that oil, still don't burn a drop and are smooth as could be.
 

andyshine77

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Here's one for you. When I got to Oz back in 1982 they didn't have Mobile 1. When I made some inquiries I was told that Mobile 1 had been banned for 10 YEARS.

The reason was that the synthetic oil wouldn't swell the seals on the engines and the Australian manufactures had problems with their engines leaking synthetic oil out of the seals.

They gave the Ozzie manufacturers 10 years to bring their seals up to spec so they could use a synthetic oil.
I'm not 100% sure if that was seal swell, or just the detergent in the synthetic oil washing away the gunk. Now as far as I can remember most American made cars leaked oil at the time regardless of the oil used.[emoji16]
 

Terry Syd

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It was weird when we pulled the engine down. If I had not already purchased the rings, I would have used the old rings. It would have actually saved some problems.

It is 'horses for courses', as we say in Oz. I use a FD rated mineral oil in my saws at 33-1. The mineral oil will burn in the cylinder and contribute to the fuel efficiency - the same reason the ultralight pilots use Pennzoil in their tanks. When you have 1,000 ft of air under your butt, it is nice to have a bit more mileage in the tank.
 

andyshine77

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My f-150 is the same way, 5.4 v8.
Well it's a 5.4 and still running so you're still ahead?[emoji6] No no the 2v were fine, the 3v were ticking time bombs and require synthetic oil do to the small oil passages and cam phasers. My brother found that out the hard way.[emoji51]
 

huskyboy

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Well it's a 5.4 and still running so you're still ahead?[emoji6] No no the 2v were fine, the 3v were ticking time bombs and require synthetic oil do to the small oil passages and cam phasers. My brother found that out the hard way.[emoji51]
Couldn’t care less what it does now with 150k on it lol. It gets me from point A to point B and hauls my stuff.
 

RI Chevy

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I tried it once. By the time you factor the costs of filter changes and synthetic oil and a little extra oil to top it off after filter changes it’s a wash on changing it every 6k miles with whatever diesel oil is on sale. You can run some of the synthetics like valvoline premium blue 10-12k before it does need changing in pre EPA trucks. These new ones are lucky to make 7500 before the oil is contaminated by fuel.
I have a by-pass oil filter in my Duramax. So I spend $25 and get the analysis done. I run Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel. I only change oil once yearly. I was doing about 15k a year for miles...
The UOA always said good to go...recheck in 10k...
BUT. I now just change it once in the summer on my time...lol
Duramax doesn't burn a drop of "engine oil." Lol
But it does burn some url!!!
 
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