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What oil is best? and what ratio?

Discussion in 'Chainsaws' started by DexterDay, Dec 28, 2015.

  1. Farmchuck

    Farmchuck Super OPE Member

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  2. Keith Gandy

    Keith Gandy Maxima K2 32:1 87efree

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    Shindaiwa Red Armor followed suit with Echo on the new formula also
    829626.pdf
     

    Attached Files:

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  3. andyshine77

    andyshine77 Well-Known OPE Member

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    I assumed something like that.
     
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  4. bwalker

    bwalker Pinnacle OPE Member

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    So engines by the nature of their porting just run dirty. Good oil can help, but not eliminate the problem. Stihl 440, 260,360 for example run dirtier than a 372 or 346 XP OE's. Honda cr500 will burn any oil clean while cr250 wont. Just about all KTM's burn oretty dirty due to crapp y carrb tuning.
     
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  5. andyshine77

    andyshine77 Well-Known OPE Member

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    I would, but you see this is a crazy 650 page thread lol. Pretty much every time you had a 661 apart I thought the cylinder and piston didn't look like they were all that happy. It almost like the saw is sucking in contaminants. Maybe the piston is expanding too much. Maybe I'm just seeing things.
     
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  6. unionvillecountryboy

    unionvillecountryboy Well-Known OPE Member

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    Yamalube?

    Suppose I could have just asked him. So I'll look into yamalube and maxima k2. At one point I thought I caught a thread randy was on BelRay, not sure the designation.
     
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  7. RI Chevy

    RI Chevy Stihl Runner

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    Hmmm. Interesting. Thanks.
     
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  8. andyshine77

    andyshine77 Well-Known OPE Member

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    It may or may not cause issues later on, but I know I don't care for it much.
     
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  9. Derf

    Derf Pinnacle OPE Member

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    I started with Husky XP oil. I’ve been running the Lucas FD 2-cycle oil in my saws the last 3 years. Only one is a modern auto-tune saw. So far (knock on wood), no problems. But when I look at the insides, they are getting black build up, and they do seem dry.
    I have some Amsoil Saber, but don’t trust their 100:1 ratio suggestion.
    I would like to have something that actually keeps the inside clean, and keeps a saw running for years, so I’m going to seriously consider the Schaeffer’s 7000 based on Scott’s advice. Even though it’s rated for water cooled engines and Ben just explained why that isn’t ideal for air cooled OPE.

    I do wonder if it would be weird to blend my own oil? With some Schaeffers 7000 for its cleaning ability, and some K2, Motul 8000, or Yamalube for the ester oil protection.
     
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  10. RI Chevy

    RI Chevy Stihl Runner

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    I generally run a 36:1 oil cocktail Fred. Get the best of all of them. Lol
     
  11. Farmchuck

    Farmchuck Super OPE Member

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    Could the benefits of one cancel out the benefits of another if they were mixed?
     
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  12. andyshine77

    andyshine77 Well-Known OPE Member

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    This is why I like K2 IMHO it's a good balance. A good thinner ester oil that often gets over looked it Motul 710. I ran a bunch of it in my 4-mix equipment and it did well at 50:1. I also ran some Yamalube in the 4mix stuff at 50:1 and I didn't care for how it ran, and things looked too dry. Ultra still preforms great in the 4-mix application for whatever that's worth.
     
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  13. Code_Red

    Code_Red Well-Known OPE Member

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    I have no dog in this fight and I use whatever randy tells me to use so don't flame me for this but im just passing along information that I have. I had a decently long conversation with the schaeffer rep a while back and I don't remember it word for word but I specifically asked him why it would be ok to run the 7000 in my saw when it has a viscosity that low compared to others that are 9 - 22 and his response was that the temperature at which schaeffer oil molecules break down is much higher than most other oils and higher than race engines generally reach ( 250 ish degrees keeps coming to mind ) and combined with the properties of the Moly in their formula ( something about it being attracted to metals at the molecular level and can withstand pressures of like 250k psi before it breaks its bond with the metal, giving it the ability to have a strong layer of protection in the cyliner and on the piston) , it allows it to keep everything extremely well lubricated and clean even at the viscosity as low as it has. :nusenuse:
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2018
  14. andyshine77

    andyshine77 Well-Known OPE Member

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    believe it or not molybdenum disulfide And Schaeffer's has come up numerous times on the oil forum, yes there's an oil forum. Moly was all the rage back in the 60's when base stocks were not where they are today, The debate on weather it's a good idea is still being debated. Most including myself think Moly is fine in this application and in the right formula. Moly is use in oils with lower end base oils, where zinc can't be used. Overall I think it's a good additive if done right. Now Ben will come in and tell me I'm wrong lol.
     
  15. Code_Red

    Code_Red Well-Known OPE Member

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    lol

    I have been slow on night shift and have been able to read about 200 of the 640+ pages of this forum and have come to the conclusion that for the average user, this debate is way overthought. I can see where guys that go through gallons a day and make a living with their saw would want to be extremely picky with oil and mix but someone like myself should focus on putting whatever their builder recommended in their mix and then learn how to tune a carb and keep a chain sharp ( both of which I am trying to get better at) . Having the saw tuned well should help it last longer than "schaeffer or klotz or yamalube etc. Ben knows his S*** and tree monkey has more hours on a saw and building saws than I probably ever will. If they recommend something ill listen and go enjoy my saw.

    regardless this thread has been extremely educational and i have enjoyed learning what I can.
     
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  16. bwalker

    bwalker Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Schaefferd two cycle oils dont appear to contain moly, which isnt surprising.
     
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  17. Code_Red

    Code_Red Well-Known OPE Member

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    Does that mean that their micron moly ingredient is scheaffers synthetic formulation of moly? Reading the msds to these oils is like trying to read Chinese to me.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  18. andyshine77

    andyshine77 Well-Known OPE Member

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    1. The application has a lot to do with what you want to run.
    2. The experience the end user has, and his tuning and over mechanical ability.
    Some of the guys on the BITOG forum say that it in fact does?:nusenuse: for sure in 4 cycle oil though.
     
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  19. maulhead

    maulhead Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Yeah, Yamalube 2R, lot of guys in this fancy oil thread just call it, 2R. Randy used to use Belray H1R. Pretty sure he only uses 2R now thou.

    I've been using 2R for over a year. I like it, but I've don't pull the cylinder off my saws after 5 tanks to see what it's like.

    It's cheap and available local, $7 a quart, which I like. All the other oils mentioned in this thread I either have to mail order, or drive 2 hours to find it. 2R is at my local Stihl dealer since they also sell Yamaha water craft.

    http://www.chaparral-racing.com/product/yamalube-2r-competition-2-stroke-oil/19-1100.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o2&scid=scplp19-1100&sc_intid=19-1100&jt=1&jap=1o2&js=1&jsid=36240&jcpid=8a8ae4cd474c1cca01474dc3a608277e&jkId=gcp:se_36240:pp_338912915969:ag_37673038682:cp_695965122:n_g:d_c:cr_157250621458&gclid=Cj0KCQiAs9zSBRC5ARIsAFMtUXF1k3YxwiY_GsjhbvNosXRfhrRJiTg6gcpnl4At_G8oulShDY75_WsaAmwAEALw_wcB
     
  20. Dub11

    Dub11 Some body poisoned the watering hole!

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    It sounds like some one was taking a bath or a HUGE *s-word in the back ground.
     
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