High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

What oil is best? and what ratio?

bwalker

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I would buy it, never used it other than in the 6100 that I
got from ajschainsaws, but on the safey sheet for the oil,
I read only good regarding its viscosity, and so I do not get
into another exchange with anyone, lets just say it has good
thermal qualities.

Over this past few weeks, looking into oils, I have deduced that
there are some oils that are to be avoided, and other than those,
any brand name oil will work just fine, especially any oil recommended
by the big names in the saw business.
The guy who tunes near me, doesnt even have a bottle of synthetic oil
in the shed, and he cuts all the time, and only tunes when its wet or in
the evenings and weekends, no failures because of oil.
If you are cutting in extreme heat and putting your saw under pressure,
I would think that even then, a rich tune will do as much good as looking
for a super oil.

Regards, john
You have no way of telling thermal qualities from a MSDS..
 
G

Greenerpastures

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You can compare it to others manufacturers, flash and combustion points,
and make up your mind on whether that informaion is of any value to
you, or not.

Regards, john
 
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bwalker

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An MSDS sheet is for storage and shipping properties and their reason for being is that they are an OSHA requirement in industry and the commercial world.
Companies likely don't provide that info because it would be misinterpreted just like people are doing on this thread...
 
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Keith Gandy

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An MSDS sheet is for storage and shipping properties.
Companies likely don't provide that info because it would be misinterpreted just like people are doing on this thread...
Ben I know Ive ask before but is there anyway to know how easily an oil will combust other than trial/error? Thanks
 

bwalker

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You can compare it to others manufacturers, flash and combustion points,
and make up your mind on whether that informaion is of any value to
you, or not.

Regards, john
Again, the only information you can obtain from observing the flash point is if the oil has a solvent in its blend and if a solvent is present the temp at which it combusts when exposed to a open flame.
 

bwalker

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Ben I know Ive ask before but is there anyway to know how easily an oil will combust other than trial/error? Thanks
Keith, not really. One mistake people make is assuming that oils are monolithic in nature. They are not. They are a blend of components with various boiling points. Some on the low end and some on the high end. Its all about balance. If you have too much heavy, high boiling point components you will have deposit issues, if the components are of too low a boiling point you will have excellerated wear.
But the above mentioned has zero to do with flash point.
 

Keith Gandy

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Ill agree with Ben in that 2R combust readily evident of nice carbon formation on top of the piston with minimal oil in the topend/exhaust and combusted well at 32to1. Red Armor is alil harder to combust and tends to burn on the rich side but at 40to1 and tuned and loaded will do a pretty good job
 

bwalker

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Ill agree with Ben in that 2R combust readily evident of nice carbon formation on top of the piston with minimal oil in the topend/exhaust and combhsted well at 32to1. Red Armor is alil harder to combust and tends to burn on the rich side but at 40to1 and tuned and loaded will do a pretty good job
Since you brought up 2r. 2R has a fairly low flash point, yet it has been used in some of the toughest applications that a two cycle engine can be used in and it has a very long track record of great performance.
 

bwalker

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Keith, I'm running Red Armor in my snowblower right now. Its a little smoky and a little stinky, but the Toro/Lawnboy motor isn' known for being very clean running.
I sold all saws, save my Stihl MS260 when I moved to Montana this year and likely wont be using a saw on a regular basis again. As such it's hard to give Red Armor a fair shake.
 
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Greenerpastures

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So this is what happens when one shakes the tree,
nice to see it being so fruitfull.
Lubrication is very important, but so is having enough
juice in there, have been told that a rich running saw with
50:1 will run much cooler than one that is loaded with oil
and thus less fuel in the mix, regardless of how rich the
the oilier mix is.
 

Keith Gandy

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So this is what happens when one shakes the tree,
nice to see it being so fruitfull.
Lubrication is very important, but so is having enough
juice in there, have been told that a rich running saw with
50:1 will run much cooler than one that is loaded with oil
and thus less fuel in the mix, regardless of how rich the
the oilier mix is.
Only way to truly know IMO is do some testing in ones equipment and find an oil that responds well to ones equipment and application. With that being said most oils will do fine but oils like Motul 800t are very hard to combust in OPE under normal usage but will suffer alil on performance but still protect well IMO
 

bwalker

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So this is what happens when one shakes the tree,
nice to see it being so fruitfull.
Lubrication is very important, but so is having enough
juice in there, have been told that a rich running saw with
50:1 will run much cooler than one that is loaded with oil
and thus less fuel in the mix, regardless of how rich the
the oilier mix is.
You seem to be confused. Assuming your carb is tuned properly, which is probably a stretch for you, the difference in temps is very small when going from 50:1 to a ratio like 32:1. What can have a great influence on engine temperatures is fuel to air ratio, but that doesnt have anything to do with oil.
 
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