High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

what is wrong with my chain?

stevegodseyjr

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Just got my Silvey 300 grinder and was messing with it. This is my chain. Does it have enough "curve" in it? Doesn't seem like it is just right.....help
 

Philbert

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This is my chain. Does it have enough "curve" in it? Doesn't seem like it is just right.....help
What do you want it to look like? Seriously, You are shaping the chain, the grinder is just the tool you use to do it.

Start with a chain that you like, and see what settings you need to achieve that profile. Then adjust the grinder settings to make that chain look the way you want. It takes time and experience to get it just right. Take some 'scrap' chains and 'play' with the settings to get a good feel for what they do. Might take multiple passes, just as you would reposition a file.

And file out the gullet down to the strap
Typically, I clean out / shape the gullet separately, after grinding the cutting edges, But not down to the tie straps; only as deep as the OEM level.

Philbert
 

stevegodseyjr

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15745401811574335350029041239696.jpg I can't seem to get this to grind back into the hook anymore. Doesn't seem to be able to grind it back any further. Do I need to advance the chain forward?
 

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N8TE

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Just got my Silvey 300 grinder and was messing with it. This is my chain. Does it have enough "curve" in it? Doesn't seem like it is just right.....help

You need more hook...I could clean my gullet a smidge more next filling but this cuts nice and feeds well.
20191123_164827.jpg
 

Skeans1

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View attachment 209219 I can't seem to get this to grind back into the hook anymore. Doesn't seem to be able to grind it back any further. Do I need to advance the chain forward?

You’re at 30 degrees roughly of vise angle, the head is 60 degrees, on the same side of the as the head tilt is the gullet depth adjustment turning it out will allow the head to go deeper into the tooth.


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stevegodseyjr

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I moved the head past the 60°mark to about 55 and it seems the hook is a bit better. Gonna see if I can run this tomorrow and see how it feeds.
 

Duane(Pa)

It's the chain...
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I moved the head past the 60°mark to about 55 and it seems the hook is a bit better. Gonna see if I can run this tomorrow and see how it feeds.
Your rakers look way high to me.?
Look carefully at the shape of your wheel and dress to a perfect arc that will transfer to the tooth.
Looks to me like you need to grind deeper toward the tie straps, that will get you lower on your side plate.
What chain is this? Thickness of wheel?
 

CR888

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Your rakers look way high to me.?
Look carefully at the shape of your wheel and dress to a perfect arc that will transfer to the tooth.
Looks to me like you need to grind deeper toward the tie straps, that will get you lower on your side plate.
What chain is this? Thickness of wheel?
This..this...&^^this.
 

stevegodseyjr

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wheel thickness roughly .160 with good radius. Calipers are pieces of *s-word so I cant get a accurate number. I need to file gulleys down also...now what should I do?20191125_200945.jpg 20191125_200908.jpg 20191125_200856.jpg
 

huskihl

Muh fingers look really big
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CR888

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I wouldn't cut with that chain the way it is, it will be hard on your gear total opposite to smooth. Look at a new chain or diagram of what a round chisel side plate should look like and try to copy it. The side plate should look more like this ( than this /.
 

BlacknTan

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I think it would be helpful to know the thickness of the wheel you've got mounted on the grinder, and how the wheel is radiused.

A little trick we used to use was to hold a piece of thin fiberglass, or g-10, or an old pc board, into the wheel. We used to put this on an optical comparator (shadowgraph) to check the radius. You obviously don't need to do that, but a photo of the copied radius on the wheel could be helpful.... I think...
 

Gypo Logger

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I think it would be helpful to know the thickness of the wheel you've got mounted on the grinder, and how the wheel is radiused.

A little trick we used to use was to hold a piece of thin fiberglass, or g-10, or an old pc board, into the wheel. We used to put this on an optical comparator (shadowgraph) to check the radius. You obviously don't need to do that, but a photo of the copied radius on the wheel could be helpful.... I think...
I’ve found that I only radius one side of the wheel and flatten the bottom of it. Haven’t done it yet but would like to try the thickest wheel possible such as a 404 to incidentaly grind out gutter material fast.
 

BlacknTan

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I’ve found that I only radius one side of the wheel and flatten the bottom of it. Haven’t done it yet but would like to try the thickest wheel possible such as a 404 to incidentaly grind out gutter material fast.

I think that would copy a factory grind pretty well..
 
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