stevegodseyjr
Super OPE Member
- Local time
- 3:51 AM
- User ID
- 8231
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2018
- Messages
- 175
- Reaction score
- 365
- Location
- Midwest
What do you want it to look like? Seriously, You are shaping the chain, the grinder is just the tool you use to do it.View attachment 209204
This is my chain. Does it have enough "curve" in it? Doesn't seem like it is just right.....help
Typically, I clean out / shape the gullet separately, after grinding the cutting edges, But not down to the tie straps; only as deep as the OEM level.And file out the gullet down to the strap
View attachment 209204
Just got my Silvey 300 grinder and was messing with it. This is my chain. Does it have enough "curve" in it? Doesn't seem like it is just right.....help
View attachment 209219 I can't seem to get this to grind back into the hook anymore. Doesn't seem to be able to grind it back any further. Do I need to advance the chain forward?
Your rakers look way high to me.?I moved the head past the 60°mark to about 55 and it seems the hook is a bit better. Gonna see if I can run this tomorrow and see how it feeds.
This..this...&^^this.Your rakers look way high to me.?
Look carefully at the shape of your wheel and dress to a perfect arc that will transfer to the tooth.
Looks to me like you need to grind deeper toward the tie straps, that will get you lower on your side plate.
What chain is this? Thickness of wheel?
Set your depth about half way between your 1st pic and the last picwheel thickness roughly .160 with good radius. Calipers are pieces of *s-word so I cant get a accurate number. I need to file gulleys down also...now what should I do?View attachment 209634 View attachment 209635 View attachment 209636
I’ve found that I only radius one side of the wheel and flatten the bottom of it. Haven’t done it yet but would like to try the thickest wheel possible such as a 404 to incidentaly grind out gutter material fast.I think it would be helpful to know the thickness of the wheel you've got mounted on the grinder, and how the wheel is radiused.
A little trick we used to use was to hold a piece of thin fiberglass, or g-10, or an old pc board, into the wheel. We used to put this on an optical comparator (shadowgraph) to check the radius. You obviously don't need to do that, but a photo of the copied radius on the wheel could be helpful.... I think...
I’ve found that I only radius one side of the wheel and flatten the bottom of it. Haven’t done it yet but would like to try the thickest wheel possible such as a 404 to incidentaly grind out gutter material fast.