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What do you weld with ?

srcarr52

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Best in a shop. Not enough sensors to keep it dark in some positions in the field. I use mine to test with and then a pipeliner with a regular lens in the field.

I have a $100 hood that has 5 sensors for the blink. It does a good job of staying dim. I have had the speedglas flash me a few times welding at awkward angles.
 

srcarr52

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It's no where near the as light or comfortable as the speedglas. I have an extra speedglas headset I thought about adapting into it.
 

skidooguy

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I prefer my Viking hood over millers auto dark hood but those are the only two auto dark ones that I have ever used. I prefer old style hoods for welding equipment back together in the field.
 

Al Smith

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I've got an old Marquette at the house .At the shop a Lincoln movable core buzz box,a 400 amp Westinghouse DC machine,Lincoln SA 200 and a Hobart 250 main line special .Four sets of torches ,one at the house three at the shop .

I might note the Westinghouse is a three phase unit I rewired for single and used a double Pi type filter to remove the ripple. Smooth as silk .Because it's been rewired it probably puts out a tad over 200 amps,enough for what I do .
 

mdavlee

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Not a bad cap on this 16" 3" wall with 9018

1ed31a00e709b568131a93bf80dad491.jpg
 

czar800

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I have to say the Lincoln mig is a much better machine then my Hobart. It's built way more solid and run smoother. The idealarc 250 is a great stick welder it been around the farm for years. It came out of a mill and it always works great.
 

Fifelaker

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At home I have an old 1963 A. O. SMITH A3000 tig stick machine that has hi freq. A Hanson 200 amp mig and two sets of torches. Work has lincoln, Miller and Esab migs and tigs plus plasma and plasma table and a water jet.
 

Red97

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Auto darkening hoods don't work be very well doing this kind of work there. Way too much light blinking.


Those "silver rings" induction heaters?
 

Red97

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Lincoln ln8 feeder .120 flux core wire, dc600 power source

Miller elite air hood, rechargeable battery, bout 20 min without air in the good gets miserable...
 

Al Smith

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Forgot to mention I have a P and H mg DC welder I picked up for next to nothing .That thing has to have a 12-15 HP motor on it and my home built rotary convertor is only 5HP .I've yet to do a thing with it .

I like a motor driven DC machine .Years ago,nearly 50 I was a welder at Baldwin-Lima -Hamilton.The makers of Lima cranes and home to the famous Shay gear driven steam locomotives of a bygone era .Most of our machines where 600 amp Lincoln MG sets .Talk about a smooth machine,none where better as far as I'm concerned .The fine adjustments on those things where amazing .Anything from a tiny little 3/32" fast freeze rod like a 6013 up to a 1/4" iron powder 7024 at above 300 amps .

The 1/4" rods didn't come into play very often thank heavens .The heat coming off them was unmerciful .After half a dozen the stinger got so hot you couldn't hold it .I rotated three stinger via quick connects
 

Black Dog Chainsaw

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Hobart 140 but want to upgrade to 210mvp hobart or a 211 Miller so I can use 110v and 220v depending on what is needed. Making some tractor attachments from 1/4"+ is starting to stretch the limits of the 140...
 

Black Dog Chainsaw

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I've got an old Marquette at the house .At the shop a Lincoln movable core buzz box,a 400 amp Westinghouse DC machine,Lincoln SA 200 and a Hobart 250 main line special .Four sets of torches ,one at the house three at the shop .

I might note the Westinghouse is a three phase unit I rewired for single and used a double Pi type filter to remove the ripple. Smooth as silk .Because it's been rewired it probably puts out a tad over 200 amps,enough for what I do .
I have a Marquette stick from my Grandpa. Old as Dirt but it still works. I just put a roller stand under it with a longer extension cord so I can reach out the door of my shop from the 220v plug.
 
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