What do you weld with ?

[angelo c]

Angelo, Are you taking about the spool gun? If so they are used mostly for doing non ferrous "Aluminum" it's so soft the the wire doesn't feed well in most mig guns unless you replace the liner with a teflon one. HTP makes a couple of Mig units that can be bought with mig guns set up for doing aluminum "teflon liners" and I have heard they work very well. Actually HTP's line up of Tig welders are very nice as well.

yes. still has aluminum wire loaded in it. I haven't tried it yet.

 

[hseII]

yes. still has aluminum wire loaded in it. I haven't tried it yet.

Ever Aluminum mig with a 350P?

No thank you.


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[angelo c]

Ever Aluminum mig with a 350P?

No thank you.


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so far....I've moved, loaded, unloaded , moved again, sold, bought and cleaned up far more welders then I've actually "welded" calling me a newbiewelder insults newbies...but I'm here for the long haul.

 

[srcarr52]

Ever Aluminum mig with a 350P?

No thank you.


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I have a 350p with a push-pull whip. It does AL very well. I hear the 350p has problems with standard short arc so they aren’t a great all around welder.

 

[hseII]

I have a 350p with a push-pull whip. It does AL very well. I hear the 350p has problems with standard short arc so they aren’t a great all around welder.

I didn’t fool with it enough: little brother can make it do it.

I’m pretty sure that machine is set up with a push pull whip also. It was only for AL.


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[pgk1]

Miller makes two different versions of the 350P on for doing steel and aluminum and one for aluminum only both are great mig welding power supplies. A lot of body shops are using the 350P for aluminum bodys found on Ford trucks these days.

 

[srcarr52]

Miller makes two different versions of the 350P on for doing steel and aluminum and one for aluminum only both are great mig welding power supplies. A lot of body shops are using the 350P for aluminum bodys found on Ford trucks these days.

The key is knowing that if it sits too long without power the memory for the settings gets lost and it defaults back to steel wire. This setting is a little more hidden in the menus so you don't notice it has changed till you start blowing wholes through everything.

 

[Absolution]

Champion 16 with a suitcase for mig on a truck.
Century stick AC/DC with a high freq for tig.
Snap on 120 for small things in shop.

The most surprising and probably my favorite. Vulcan Omnipro 220. It surprised the hell out of me. I'm looking at getting a new AC/DC TIG and I really want to try the Primeweld tig 225.

 

[pgk1]

I picked up a primeweld 225 last year, I haven't had a chance to use it much yet but it seems to have a very smooth arc. And for $775.00 it seems hard to beat.

 

[pgk1]

The key is knowing that if it sits too long without power the memory for the settings gets lost and it defaults back to steel wire. This setting is a little more hidden in the menus so you don't notice it has changed till you start blowing wholes through everything.

Wow, I didn't realize that, My Dynasty 300DX is the only welder I have that has the ability to program setting into that you can save and that welder as sat for months and never lost a program. I would call Miller and ask to speak to tech line and ask them if that's normal. 920-734-9821

 

[J & L Creations]

Well guys I’ve started repairing engine driven welders. Miller, Hobart and Lincoln. Do more Miller and Hobart than Lincoln but have done a few. Number one problem I’m finding is these welding machines sit in storage or a barn, not being used and the fuel in the tank and carb dries up, at that point the carb gets plugged up and the engine won’t start. Second is rats or rats nest. Before u try to even start the engine on one of these machines is to pull the panels off and inspect the wiring for bare wires that rats have chewed on or rats nest. Bare wires can short out, sparks fly and start a fire in the rats nest. Had a guy bring me his new still under warranty unit that did just that, caught on fire, Miller would not warranty the unit because it had a rats nest that caught on fire, to make matters worse, the fire made it to the stator winding. The stator had to be rewound, very expensive to say the least. Third item I c is on the newer selector switches for amperage and polarity. These switches r made with a plastic frame or housing, over a very short period of time the copper contacts within become pitted and corroded, which in turn cause resistance, build up heat and melt the plastic housing, then the unit stops welding. If caught in time I’ve been able to repair some, but for the most part they r to far gone and have to be replaced. They r also expensive. So while u have the panels off inspect the contacts on these switches, keep them clean and moving freely. Forth item is the electronic pc boards. I c to many with boards in them, that r so dirty u would not know they were electronic boards. Many of these boards rely on circulation of air to keep the components cool on them and many have heat sinks for this purpose. If their dirty these heat sinks cannot remove the heat away from the components as they were designed to do. Fifth item is nothing in these machines like moisture or water, if u c moisture buildup on the outside panels of ur machines, just know there is a buildup of moisture inside the machine as well, don’t even try to start ur machine in this situation, u will damage circuitry of some kind. Also from everything I’ve just told u I take no responsibility for the actions u might take to rectify these problems ur self. I have no control over what u ur self decide to do with this information here. So my suggestion to all of this is if u feel the least bit uneasy about taking care of these items ur self is to take it to a competent mechanic who can perform all of these tasks. This preventive maintenance will go a long way in making ur welding machine last a very long time.

 

[J & L Creations]

 

[Larry B]

A wise man once told me there is no money in owning a boat but there is a lot of money in repairing other people's boats. I think the same holds true for most things. Good looking machines you got there. The genset welders people bring me look like candidates for the junkyard. And as always the words "not looking to put a lot of money into it" is part of the conversation. When you live in a town called Farmersville most stuff you see comes out of a dirt floor barn.

 

[J & L Creations]

A wise man once told me there is no money in owning a boat but there is a lot of money in repairing other people's boats. I think the same holds true for most things. Good looking machines you got there. The genset welders people bring me look like candidates for the junkyard. And as always the words "not looking to put a lot of money into it" is part of the conversation. When you live in a town called Farmersville most stuff you see comes out of a dirt floor barn.

Awesome reasoning, I was told the same thing many years ago. Thing is, that first photo of the Bluestar 2E I bought, repaired it all, cleaned and painted it then sold it. Was a fun project.

 

[drf256]

Very nice machine restorations J & L.

I started with a Chicago electric 130 amp mig from HF which had 4 temp settings and could lay down a full 1/4” of weld before it shut down for its 5% duty cycle.

Next was a Lincoln 225 AC/DC tombstone which soon had a Miller HF251D HF box added to it.

Then came a Millermatic 200 with a spoolmatic, then a Syncrowave 250, then a Miller Dynasty 200DX.

The Chicago mig was given away and the above all sold. Now I’m left with:

Thermal Arc Arcmaster 300 AC/DC with a CK230 torch and a Coolmate 3.
Miller XMT 304 CC/CV with a SP12 Suticase/Miller 30A spool/Bernard Q300 gun and an Optima Pulser I’ve yet to use.
Miller Maxstar 150STL with pedal and finger control
TA161S for Stick
Hypertherm PM45 plasma

If anyone is in need of a clean Spoolmatic 30A with a controller (?WT22) and many spools of wire, PM me. Bought it fully redone from a respected member off the welding web and haven’t used it once. Same for the Optima pulser which will allow Pulse mig for thin aluminum from a Mig.

 

[BGE541]

Everlast AC/DC Tig

 

[backhoelover]

got a miller 252,251,bobcat,hobart 110 for stainless at work

home is a miller 191 mig and a eastwood 250 digital for ac/dc tig and stick. just got this one need to order a bottle of argon

 

[stretch5881]

I have a Lincoln 100 wire feed. No gas because I weld outside mostly. I bought it new about 25 years ago and upgraded it to fit the larger spools. I have run a couple hundred pounds of wire through it with no problems. It does most everything I need it to. Only a couple of projects I needed to complete by a friends shop that needed 220.

 

[srcarr52]

Last fall I bought a Lincoln Tig 200 to use in my garage instead of having to do all the welding at the race shop and use the old Lincoln AC/DC 300 transformer machine. I’ll say, even on 110v this thing welds great. My only complain is the arc starts are a little hot for thin material.

The high frequency and being able to adjust the AC balance are really helping my Mag welds. The pulse can be useful to avoid pinholes on crappy base material.

On 110v input it says it can do 140amp. Since it’s square wave there is more energy density than the old sign wave and I’m yet to use more than 80amp.

 

[blades]

got one of those prime weld tig units as my dial arc hf went, only used a couple times seems nice got more asdustments than you can shake 5 fingers at.