High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Went Kinetic over hydro splitter

RyeThomas

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Ok so I have a thread on help me pick a splitter on another site with thoughts, prices, many replies, etc. I was encouraged to head over here and I'm excited to be here. Figured I'd post some info here for those who missed it if any care.
I had a 27t MTD with a 4 way wedge. She needs some work so I went and talked to the Warden (wife) and pitched a Kinetic. I had a hard time deciding because I have never even seen one much less run one. I have been heating my home with firewood for about 10-12 years. I have a Rambler/ranch home that is nothing but addition after addition over the years, vaulted ceilings and little to no efficiency. A cold winter and I can burn 8-10 true chords. My roof never has snow on it if you catch my drift, lol.
Anyway here in Va I don't get a bunch of huge rounds so I decided to give a Kinetic a try. Well after much research I went with a SSHD with a higher work table. I have roughly 5 hours on the machine and I have split a pretty good amount of firewood. I'm am very impressed with the machine. Productivity is up but even more important is having a tall work area with a decent sized table so I can keep good posture while I work the machine. At 40 years old I can tell ya I can run this machine with no back pain, This is huge for me.

I by no means am saying the same couldn't be had with a hydro set up properly. I just couldn't find a hydro with a fast cycle, production table, etc for near the price.
I have also found a 4 way wedge stinks unless it's adjustable or you run the exact size rounds, this drove the price up even more on a hydro.

Let me be clear I am not trying to start a debate or say a Kinetic is right for everyone, but thus far it has been a great purchase for me.
The only thing that stinks is the tow hitch design. I'm going to be looking for a different style. I pull it on the three point on my JD2305, when I go to split I drop it and the splits cover up the hitch. I see what they were after but it doesn't work for me.

Sorry for the novel.
Any questions or thoughts shoot!
 

RyeThomas

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I also have a bunch of larger rounds that have been stacked for a while and I have found they have been sitting because they are too big to lift.
I tried my hand at noodling them down with my 362cm. Well I quickly learned pulling a 25" is fine for bucking but for noodling I'm working the saw too hard. I decided to put the 20" back on her and purchase a 660 from member Chipper1. Should be here next week, then I should be able to haul the mail thru them.
I'm very excited as this is going to be my first big saw.
I have also done a bunch of reading on how to noodle and just chainsaw tips and techniques as well. It's amazing how long you can do it wrong without ever knowing if youve never been taught.
I look forward to reading a bunch and learning a ton, then I can pass this info down to my son so he's not as dumb as his dad!!!
Have a good one gents, be safe. Rye.
 

RyeThomas

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I have a true ridge beam and rafters which equals no attic or no real space for insulation. Whatever is up there is staying and I'm sure it's turned to dust. I could fur down and insulate but I like my vaulted ceilings. I don't believe in drill and fill insulation. If I hit the lottery I'll pull the ceiling and spray foam but if I didn't t have bad luck I would have none.
So I'm in the burn more wood category.
 

Ryan Browne

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Welcome aboard RyeThomas, I think you'll like it here.

I'm very intrigued by the SSHD. I'd love to have an electric one so I can split wood easily, quickly, and still enjoy the peace and quiet.

One thing I've found with noodling is that there's no need to cut all the way through. A 20" bar will noodle a 30" long round just fine. Of course you need to be careful of kickback like in any buried-bar situation, but once the round is partially opened up with the saw, a maul finishes it off easily.
 

CTYank

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How a given saw model does noodling is also very much a result of the design of the clutch cover. Some are waaaaay better than others. Seems some stihl-boys take the clutch covers from some models to the bandsaw to kind-of open them up, and let the chips out. Some are excellent in OEM form, ferinstance RedMax GZ4000, PP5020, Domar 6100, 576XP that I've used as such. Some jam up almost instantly.
Besides just noodling partway, like through forks & knots, then whacking it with a maul, another useful trick is to rock the bar while noodling. Tilt the nose down a bit, then the other way, so you're not just cutting parallel the grain. Makes for much shorter noodles, which are easier for the saw to discharge. Helps with powerful saw like 576, which spits a chip-stream.
One thing I've recently found deserves your attention while noodling is the recoil cover. Some covers can let lots more noodles through than others. Then they can get packed into a nice insulating blanket on the cylinder fins. At least when I discovered this on my PP5020 the impacted noodles weren't charred (yet). How hot do you have to get magnesium before it ignites? Saw is still fine, but it could have gotten ugly.
HTH
 

RyeThomas

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All makes sense. I was clearing the cover but stuff was building up fast.
After making an initial cut on the front or back (I tried both) I dropped the saw in the cut and cut flat.
I have watched that technique on many videos but I believe that's people showing the power of bigger saws or ported saws just tearing thru a round.
I am realizing keeping it off the dog face or buried allows more noodles out from the cover and rocking the bar makes it bothe easier on the saw and more productive all around.
 

Cigmaker

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Welcome aboard from a fellow Virginian... not to be mistaken for virgin you sick m'fers lol. No need to apologize for stating your opinion or making a statement on a subject around here. This place is a little more laid back not as many a holes if ya get one just tell em GFY and be done with it lol. I'm with you on noodling rounds just don't care for it with my 360. I have a DHT22 ton I'll use if I can't split em by hand and go vertical for that process. I also have a new toy coming that may be better for noodling so I won't toss the baby out with the bath water just yet though.
 

USMC615

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Welcome aboard there crazy. I've had a SS HD going on two yrs now and love it...it's the cats' meow!! Was actually contemplating selling it a little while back, but got enough OT at work to handle a couple of things/daughter starting college, other little things I needed funds for.
 

Locust Cutter

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A 60cc saw definitely has the power but most don't have the clutch cover for it... My ported 372 does VERY well, IF I only use about 1/2 throttle and that's with the oversized clutch cover... Now, my 9010 on the other hand, it just eats! And it has a slightly slower chain speed, which can actually be a blessing.

Get a few smaller logs and tent stake them in place like the following characters: oOo this will provide a more ample discharge area for the noodles and with keep you from hitting the dirt w/o having to roll the log. Also, if/when you're noodling at an angle, use a plastic wedge or two to hold the kerf open and avoid pinching the bar/chain. If the log is a crotch piece and the Y isn't in the middle (think small offset on one side and the majority is on the other fork) I'll simply slice off the small side and put in the ugly pile leaving the majority of the log w/a flowing grain pattern and thus much easier to read/split. I wish I had pics to help convey what I'm describing right now...
 

RyeThomas

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Got it thanks fellas, I learn more everyday!
I think the 660 and the things I've learned in the last few days are gonna make noodling a lot more enjoyable.
I know I'm hard on equipment so I'm happy to put my 20" back on the 362cm and leave it be from here on out. I like the saw with the 20".
I like the small log idea, I've used the wedges (always use them when bucking). I've also realized (read , watched, and learned) angling the bar a bit and keeping the dogs off the face of the log will allow the noodles out and be easier on the saw.
I think the 362/660 combo should be the ticket for a 2 saw combo, but in reality what do I know.
Thanks guys.
 

Locust Cutter

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It will be for now, until you go to a GTG and play w/other Stihls, Huskies, Dolkitas, Efcos, Redmaxes, Jonsereds, McCullochs, Homelites and Shindaiwas... Especially any of the ported versions... Then all hell breaks loose when reason and logic exit stage left
 

RyeThomas

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Yeah I have, issue is I'm a bit of a bull in a China shop. With my luck I'd run her lean and lock it up quick.
While in school I was a mechanics assistant, I have built some pretty nice diesel trucks (when I was a contractor, had money and no children) and I'm a pretty good shade tree mechanic.

BUT, I have no training in the 2 stroke world so I'm a bit apprehensive to do anything.
 

Locust Cutter

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There plenty of info you can search for a some decent vids on youtube. As long as the throttle response is snappy, (no off idle bog) 4 strokes (burbles) wide open unloaded, and 2-strokes in the cut (cleans up and smooths out) you're on the right track...
 
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