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Using Power Pruner -Powered Pole Saws

Discussion in 'Tree Work Equipment' started by brushwacker, Nov 26, 2019.

  1. brushwacker

    brushwacker Well-Known OPE Member

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    I am looking for tips to make it easier and more effective.
    Not a newby at it but feel i lack some of the knowledge and skills that make it easier.
    Couple or so things i want good advice on from experienced pole saw users.
    Getting pinched,how to avoid it ???
    I used my stihl extendable 4 mix for many years with a 12" .050 and a wide nose bar. Got it off a tree service,so its been well used and a year ago or so i replaced the entire cutting attachment,and went with a standard 14" .050 stihl narrow nose bar. With the original to me 12" wide nose .050 it had way more p0wer, not sure if my loss of power is more from the attachment not being broke in or the increase in bar length. Didn't think the 2" would make much difference . Anyway with the new set up i seem to get pinched frequently. May be cause it is cutting slower? Not sure if a wider nose bar is an advantage or disadantage ? Any way i am switching back to a wide nose 12", bent my 14" chain last time it pinched.
    Would appreciate shared thoughts on the subject.
     
  2. Philbert

    Philbert Chainsaw Enthusiast

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    I don't like the 1/4" pitch chain (typically comes with the longer bar on newer models) compared to the 3/8" low profile / 'Picco' chain (typically comes with the shorter bar on older models) on these pole saws. You did not say which pitch you are using, The 3/8" low profile chain just cuts better, is easier to sharpen (IMO), etc. Of course you can always have the 3/8" low profile chain and a 14" bar with the right combination (including drive sprocket).

    Avoiding pinching is always a bit of art, mixed with science. With a pole saw, you can't cut straight up or straight down to prevent binds, so you have to take a bit more time to assess the branch. I will sometimes make multiple cuts, to make a wider kerf, and check often, to assess which way the branch is moving.

    The biggest problem for me, is when the branch / limb swings sideways into a cut, trapping the bar.

    There are also these bars:
    http://opeforum.com/threads/cannon-pole-pruner-saw-guide-bars.8825/
    IMG_1042.jpg


    Which I still have not tried! It did not work with my Oregon pole saw, but now I have a STIHL that it fits.

    Philbert
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2019
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  3. Rob Stafari

    Rob Stafari Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Haven't used one enough to really help, but I've been wanting to try one of those angled cannon bars. Believe that would be a big help as it would allow one to get more over top of the branch giving less chance for the bar to bind.
     
  4. CR888

    CR888 Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Too avoid tearing off bark down the tree make a small under cut first then finish on top. As far as pinching, this is bad and can seriously fork up your day. Most don't own or take out 2 pole saws so its not an option to make this mistake without climbing gear or spare pole saw. Sooo....its about feel, you will sense when the pinch starts, at this point get the bar out of the cut pronto. Then make another cut slightly closer too the tree at an angle heading towards your first cut that was pinching. This will result in a wedge being removed from the top which will drastically minimise or prevent all together pinching. Now as I mentioned start with a small say 1/3rd of branch cut from underside then finish from top & if the pinch happens do the wedge thing which releaves stress to allow a clean cut. Once branch is dropped make another clean cut so you don't leave a messy stub.
     
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  5. CR888

    CR888 Pinnacle OPE Member

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    If you do happen to get pinched, your pole saw is stuck up a tree, you have cussed every swear work you know. If you have a friend with you get him to pull branch end down with something long or a rope while you remove saw. This will open up cut enough for you too pull out bar. If your by yourself you can bounce the branch up & down by pushing pulling saw, this 'may' for a brief second open that pinch, but that ones a long shot. Don't forget letting go of the saw while pinched is a last resort move as a lot of stress 'can' be put on bar/chain & pole. This depends too on how it got pinched, where the saw is and some trigonometry. Sometimes you can safely let go of saw & its first being suspended in tree. The point is 'prevention is cure', know when its starting to happen and go to plan B. I haven't had a saw stuck, jammed up chit creek in probably the last 2000 cuts. That's not to say Im lucky, plenty of times the saw has started getting squeezed. A little knowledge combined with a lot of experience is the solution. I was never taught what to do by anyone, I just felt my way through.Good luck.
     
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