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Tuning on an echo 2511t

Nutball

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3/8 low pro. The chain that comes stock is kind of crappy in my opinion. It’s definitely acceptable on the ported saw which has enough power to keep it from being too grabby.
I recently found too much hook makes it jumpy. Hook is good in my opinion, but not on these little saws when the depth gauges are too low too.

Just what I've figured out on Saturday
Oregon LP profiles.jpg
To get the green profile I used a clip on oregon file guide, and held it level with the guide resting on the tooth, but not the depth gauge. .043 "90" oregon chain has a similar profile when new. "91" has more hook.
 

chipper1

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Just keep the rakers high Curt...
It takes some experimenting for sure.
@usmcbuckwild
This :rolleyes:.
Whenever a chain is grabby and the profile looks good I hit it with the same file before changing the profile. If the profile is too aggressive then I grab a larger file.
If they don't grab and the profile is good I take the rakers down. Sometimes more hook is needed and will achieve a faster cut time, but I tend to "lean" towards a chain that is smooth and that I have more control of, this is especially true on a small saw or a climbing saw.
 

RI Chevy

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Good points. When hanging on by a rope, it's all about smoothness. Safety is paramount over speed. [emoji106]
 

chipper1

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Good points. When hanging on by a rope, it's all about smoothness. Safety is paramount over speed. [emoji106]
It is!
Same with running smaller saws, I'm usually in more of a precision cutting mode with plenty more cuts closer to my legs than with a larger saw/bar.
 

chipper1

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Stock chain to me is a blank sheet of paper... just a starting point. Have to dial it in for the saw used and what your doing to get the best results.
I agree with that. It's basically set up to do good in as many situations as possible and to be safe. Then as you say you tune it to the specific situation you're in so it will cut great rather than good. I can't get away with running the same hook in the winter on dead standing wood as I do in the summer on green wood lol.
 
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I concur with the chain profile discussion. While speed has its place with a climbing saw; reliable and smooth cutting is best performance. I can deal with slower cut as long as it is consistent and I KNOW what how it will cut every single time. One of the reasons I dislike changing out chain types/manufacturers. I haven’t climbed in a LONG time (and realistically never will again) but I always tested new/different chains on the ground. Typically while being the ground guy, clipping limbs, basic limbing and small bucking. This allowed me to get Good feel for the chain and maintain familiarity with the top handle. Not that there were many types of chain for top handles, but different cutter shapes after sharpening. Just my $0.02
 

RI Chevy

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I agree Curt...Good points! [emoji106]
 

full chizel

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Y’all are too picky. I tossed the VXL in the trash and put on a Stihl b&c and went and cut wood. No testing or getting a feel for anything:banana:
 

Nutball

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The chain in the pic is actually .043 oregon, which has a better shape stock, but the pic shows after I added more of a hook, then tried removing it.
 

Wonkydonkey

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Stock vxl chain was not very smooth for me. So I changed to stihl chain as I had one.. when I get around to adjusting the vxl I will comment some more 2c's. ;)
 
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