High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

to "Seal" or not to "Seal"

angelo c

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The question is when you replace seals on used saws do you use a "sealant" on the outer seal-to-case surface. Reason I ask is almost every Stihl Manual says to "use a grease on inner and a sealant" on outer surfaces. Ive pulled many factory seals/bearings out and NEVER found residual "sealant" on the seals. I had a recent "issue" rebuilding a 200t and I used "yamabond" as the seal sealant and had to go back in to replace the seal as the lip wasn't sealing ( huh-go figure....who never had a bakelite seal NOT seal ?) and had to split the case back apart to get the damn thing out....WITH USING the Stihl removal tool. Biatch would not budge-sealant did an awesome job-grrrrr. Havent had to go back in to too many other saws after "sealing" them so this might be a 200t issue only. ?

So do you use a sealant or NOT ?
 

Stump Shot

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Not on pro type chassis. Just grease in the inner lip. Have yet to see one leak at the metal to metal contact area and have yet to see sealer on that area other than an encapsulated clam shell type seal, these I do use sealer on especially where the two halves meet.
 

brandonstclair20

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I recently started doing it after reading the stihl service manual. Maybe I shouldn’t then.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Canadian farm boy

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Mike, have you been back in to get one out that's been sealed ?
that's really where my aggravation is coming from.
Nope, not yet. I don't think you'd have any problems.
I use 518 for cylinder bases and they come back off pretty easy.

The other nice thing with 518 is that if you get any of it in the bearing it will just wash away. It's an anaerobic sealer.
 

5000+

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518 can't hurt. You should tap the seal slightly in to free it before pulling it anyhoo. Can prevent a lot of greif if there is a slight nick or scratch in the case.
 

Stump Shot

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The other nice thing with 518 is that if you get any of it in the bearing it will just wash away. It's an anaerobic sealer.


This was what I was always a feared of and figured I would cross that bridge when one leaked on me. Pres/Vac test would let me know if things aren't as they should be. That said, it's good to know what to use when the time comes/or if things just don't look like they should. :)
 

cus_deluxe

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I did several saws without, but now i always use sealer (518), just a little tiny bit, on the OD of seals.
 

angelo c

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I did several saws without, but now i always use sealer (518), just a little tiny bit, on the OD of seals.
what was the difference- in the long run, did it make a difference and did you ever have to "remove" the seals yet ? I have never pulled a factory seal and seen visible remains of a sealant.
 

cus_deluxe

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what was the difference- in the long run, did it make a difference and did you ever have to "remove" the seals yet ? I have never pulled a factory seal and seen visible remains of a sealant.
Ive not had to go back in and take seals out that ive used sealer on (yet). Im in the cheap insurance group as well. I also have not seen remnants of sealer on any factory seals ive removed.
 
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I had 2 leaks around the metal to metal contact; 1 Jonsered and 1 Husqvarna. One was pitted a bit (i’ll admit I took a chance on it) and the Husqy just plain leaked. 3 different seals and all leaked, no damage to the seal, no visible damage to the pocket, bearings and seals were correct depths. Fixed with some Threebond. Since then I always swab the outside of the seal with Loctite or Threebond and then install. As previously stated: cheap insurance.
 
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