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Tips Reconditioning Small Diameter Cylinders W/lots Of Port Area?

SteveSr

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Hello,

The method I am attempting to use is Mastermind's split mandrel with emery cloth. Unfortunately, I don't have a Foredom tool so am using a fixed drill press and hand holding the cylinder. I do have a Dremel with a remote handpiece however, I have been reluctant to try it since it is a high RPM tool and may remove material faster than I can control it. I also don't have a way of making a split mandrel that would fit in even the largest collet. Therefore I would have to find some other similar tool (flapper disc?) to use.

In a previous failed attempt to salvage an 026 cylinder I found that the emery flap would get into the edges of the ports and remove significantly more material on its way out eventually leading to removing all of the plating.

Now I have an even smaller cylinder from an 4137 series FS-80. As you can see from the photos the cylinder is nearly all ports or transfers. There is still fingernail catching transfer below the exhaust port but surprising little above.

So can any of you offer any advice on techniques or methods to recondition this cylinder?

Thanks,
Steve
 

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SteveSr

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Wrong forum? Too complicated? Not interesting enough? I know it ain't a saw but it still is a 2-stroke.
 

Dub11

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I have used sand paper taped to a rod in a hand drill and have had it work pretty well. And to avoid the extra wear on the port edges make sure the sand paper is wider than the port so it doesn't fall in to it. And use plenty of wd40 ot the like and go slow. I just let the paper do the work and try not to push down on any areas.
 

Dub11

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And with a drill I will change directions of spin too.
 

SteveSr

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I did this up real quick to give you an idea.View attachment 134169
View attachment 134170

I hope this helps

Thanks for the tips! It looks like you have found a good use for old drill bits! The larger width should keep the paper out out of the ports, at least the intake and exhaust.

So what are you using for abrasive type and grit? The photo looks like plain old wet or dry sandpaper or is it emery cloth? I have been using emery but it has more mass and tends to flap more potentially on more places where you don't really want it to go.

Thanks,
Steve
 

Dub11

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That is some regular ol 280. And lots of wd40 or similar.
 

T.Roller

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For getting transfer out I'd use some 80 grit then go up from there
 

smokey7

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I find i like a very small piece of sand paper. Like on a 1/8" split mandrel i use like a1" or 1 1/2 inch long piece of paper. Its easier to control. I also start off with 80 or 120 grit and finish eith 220. I find with fine paper and my technique it doesn't remove the transfer well. Also dont forget the hand sand option close to ports especially if using hillbilly tools as a work around to a fordem.
 

Jiles

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Hello,

The method I am attempting to use is Mastermind's split mandrel with emery cloth. Unfortunately, I don't have a Foredom tool so am using a fixed drill press and hand holding the cylinder. I do have a Dremel with a remote handpiece however, I have been reluctant to try it since it is a high RPM tool and may remove material faster than I can control it. I also don't have a way of making a split mandrel that would fit in even the largest collet. Therefore I would have to find some other similar tool (flapper disc?) to use.

In a previous failed attempt to salvage an 026 cylinder I found that the emery flap would get into the edges of the ports and remove significantly more material on its way out eventually leading to removing all of the plating.

Now I have an even smaller cylinder from an 4137 series FS-80. As you can see from the photos the cylinder is nearly all ports or transfers. There is still fingernail catching transfer below the exhaust port but surprising little above.

So can any of you offer any advice on techniques or methods to recondition this cylinder?

Thanks,
Steve

I have done this for many years and on this type cylinder, I use very fine sandpaper, like 320/400 with WD40 and score the entire surface of the cylinder bore using my finger.
On open port, or similar cylinders, I LIGHTLY use a brake cylinder hone lubricated with WD40.
You have to realize you are attempting to remove cylinder "Glaze".
In most cylinders, the nikasil coating is only about two thousands thick and can be reduced or eliminated very easily using a drill motor or grinder.
You have much more control by using sandpaper or scotch brite with your finger.
 
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I got one of those extra long Harbor Freight allen key sets and cut the 90* turn off the 1/8” key with the Dremel and kept the long end. The 1/8 allen key will fit into and can be tightened in the standard Dremel collet if you don’t have the 3 jaw drill head for it. I then made a length-wise cut at the ‘ball’ end of the allen key with the thin metal cutting blade that came with the dremel. I cut just over 3/4” down the center of the allen key, then pinched the 2 prongs together to maintain friction to hold the emery cloth/sandpaper. Cutting down that far allows you to use standard emery cloth found at Homer Depot or bLowes, which is 1” in width. The added 1/4” of paper out the end keeps you from knicking what you are working on. Also allows you to sand hard to reach stuff (deep inside transfers).

The key to using it is relatively low rpm (i found around 8-10k rpm on the dremel) and wrapping at least 3 wraps around the homemade mandrel. You can then apply appropriate pressure and the lower rpm keeps the cloth/sandpaper from unraveling and flapping around uncontrollably. With a little practice you will be amazed at how well you can clean stuff up. I use it with 80 grit emery cloth all the way to 2000 grit diamond paper without issue (the diamond paper is amazing on exhaust ports especially after following it with a brief touch of a stainless brush at 15k rpm).
 

bottlefed

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Never done this so take it for what its worth.

I would take a piece of wood dowel etc. and cut it smaller than the current bore by slightly more than the dimension of the thickness of the sandpaper you will use. Then you should be able to glue sandpaper to the outside and it will drag on the jug...this way the single thickness of attached paper will maintain dimension and not expand (much) into openings.

Use a very powerful variable speed drill/screwgun so that you can maintain less than 60 rpm...remember you generally want a 45° crosshatch on any hone to break in the rings so you will have to move the "hone assembly" in and out as quickly as the speed of rotation IE once every other second.

Just my two cents, you may have been overcharged :)
 

T.Roller

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If you just do it the way Mastermind did in his videos it'll work great. It's been done no telling how many times by many many different people and it works great. If you have alot of transfer it'll take you days to hand sand it out.
 

Jiles

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If you just do it the way Mastermind did in his videos it'll work great. It's been done no telling how many times by many many different people and it works great. If you have alot of transfer it'll take you days to hand sand it out.

Sorry--I didn't realize the discussion was referring to aluminum transfer.
That is a different situation that I handle different.
I first use sandpaper on a small flat stick--similar to a chop stick --with sandpaper attached and use it similar to a file.
If the buildup is heavy, I use small round file first.
I only sand in that spot where transfer is located.
When satisfied with removal, I then hand sand entire cylinder.
This might take a little longer but I have never ruined a cylinder.
 

cus_deluxe

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If theres a fair bit of transfer, i use acid, carefully. If its mostly carbon streaks and Little aluminum ill just sand it as described above.
 

Al Smith

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Easy off oven cleaner will softened up the transfer but use it sparingly and only leave it on for about a minute before you rinse it off .Scotch bright instead of sand paper is less aggressive and less apt to peal the lining .It should be used with something like kerosene,WD 40 .Remember this is not a race because once to cut through the lining the game ends,you can't put it back on .
 

Al Smith

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Another option which would be slow is felt fobs and compound .Craytex wheels might work but I've only used the points types for finishing some porting never to remove aluminum transfer .
 
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