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Tips for high use saws...

jakethesnake

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I had recoi problems on a 455 r. I'm embarrass to admit how filthy it was I took all my saws to the cleaner snowed in this year very good tip
 

Canadian farm boy

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I think this goes for anything that gets used a lot be it a car, truck, boat, saw or Lawnmower

Preventative Maintenance!!!!

The list includes things like this;
-visual inspection
-washing/wiping down
-lubricating of necessary parts
-mechanical checks/tests
-good fuel
-lots of clean air
-strong spark
-proper intended use

There is probably more that could be added.
Your PM schedule should reflect the use of the equipment. If you use it a lot check it over often and be thorough. It's easier, faster and usually cheaper to fix something small at the first signs of failure rather then wait till it's completely f'ed up
 

czar800

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I'll clean the flywheel with break clean and the recoil then hit it with air.

I do this once a month prolly


I some how always manage to give my recoils a good drink of bar oil.............when i have a little extra time i pull the starter and break clean also.
 

jakethesnake

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I get wild with bar oil also that's what gummed my recoil up .... Hasn't missed a best since I cleaned it ...
 

jmssaws

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Thank you. What does this save wear on?
The flywheel is what cools the saw, keep it clean and the vents in the recoil,the cylinder fins and under the plastic. I've tested it and a clean saw is a huge amount cooler than a dirty one and heat is what kills them.
 

czar800

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I think this goes for anything that gets used a lot be it a car, truck, boat, saw or Lawnmower

Preventative Maintenance!!!!

The list includes things like this;
-visual inspection
-washing/wiping down
-lubricating of necessary parts
-mechanical checks/tests
-good fuel
-lots of clean air
-strong spark
-proper intended use

There is probably more that could be added.
Your PM schedule should reflect the use of the equipment. If you use it a lot check it over often and be thorough. It's easier, faster and usually cheaper to fix something small at the first signs of failure rather then wait till it's completely f'ed up


Great post!!
 

d.l.d

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What's the best way to go about this? Remove the cover and blow it out? How often?

Care to walk me around this? My saws have to last me my lifetime.
Not sure what brand/series of saws you have for the exact steps but most of the stihls have an "inboard" clutch where only a screwdriver is needed to pry the e clip off and remove the clutch drum. I always blow the clutch/area off with compressed air and clean the drum while I've got it off. At this point you can just pull the needle bearing off. I clean it with gas and dry it with compressed air. I use the stihl lithium based grease lightly, dont use too much as it will fling on the clutch and drum. When you reassemble make sure you line up the notch on the drum with the worm gear "arm". If you run a husky its a similar process but you may need a tool to remove the clutch. Several have "outboard" clutches that have to be removed to do this. Ive done it with a screwdriver and hammer before but its kind of a pain. If your going to have the saw for a long time it would be worth buying the tool. Not just for that but other repairs also.
 

Agent Orange

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Not sure what brand/series of saws you have for the exact steps but most of the stihls have an "inboard" clutch where only a screwdriver is needed to pry the e clip off and remove the clutch drum. I always blow the clutch/area off with compressed air and clean the drum while I've got it off. At this point you can just pull the needle bearing off. I clean it with gas and dry it with compressed air. I use the stihl lithium based grease lightly, dont use too much as it will fling on the clutch and drum. When you reassemble make sure you line up the notch on the drum with the worm gear "arm". If you run a husky its a similar process but you may need a tool to remove the clutch. Several have "outboard" clutches that have to be removed to do this. Ive done it with a screwdriver and hammer before but its kind of a pain. If your going to have the saw for a long time it would be worth buying the tool. Not just for that but other repairs also.
Stihl saws x2, inboard clutches. Thank you for the step by step. I use a brush and compressed air inside the covers , I'm going to pop the clutch/sprocket housing and clean em out good later today.
 

Brewz

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I bought an 066 that had done a LOT of work when i got it
The chain sprocket was flogged out and the bearing stuffed.
The entire area under the clutch and under the cover around the chain sprocket was hard packed with oil and sawdust, and it had actually burnt the cover around the chain sprocket to charcoal.

The oil and sawdust seems to create an acidic culture that etches into the case, taking the paint off and etching into the metal.
Another 066 I have had little etching to the case but the oil pump has been eaten to the point where the tab that stops the adjustment screw at full open is gone and it just spins.

I dont clean this spot every time I use the saw but after several days of work, or if the saw will sit for a while, I pull the clutch and covers and blast it all out with compressed air, hit it with a bit of spray on degreaser and hose it off to get it clean.

As said already, clean saws are cooler running longer lasting saws.

Anything mechanical needs parts that wear replaces like rings, bearings, seals etc and anything that is air cooled needs airflow to cool.
If you let the crap build up, your saw will die an early death
 
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