Thrown chain drive link cleanup

[Carhartt]

I do some sharpening for customers on all kinds of chains. I love the guy that brings me 4 chains exactly the same and sharpened the same every time. Then there is the guy that drops off 10 in a bucket with the mystery chain thrown from the bar and jacked up 10 drive link edges. Has anyone figured out a good way to clean up those burs on the drive links? I use a dremel and stone wheel, sharpie marker and a glove, because I always end up grinding the tip of my fingers. Not to mention the time involved. Im to honest of a guy so I don't charge more but make a mental note of it.

 

[dall]

ive used a file to clean them up it could have been it was the sprocket was worn also

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Dremel is as good as I have found. I had a guy get mad one time when I told him it wasn't worth sharpening a chain he had.. it was missing 70% of 6 drivers in a row. He didn't understand it just wouldn't work.

 

[dall]

@Definitive Dave

 

[Simondo]

A board with a 6in half circle of ply tacked on...loop the chain round the half round ..hold the other end and use a small angle grinder with a brand new grinding disk in it. Carefully.. flat.. off the burs on the drive links .

 

[Carhartt]

ive used a file to clean them up it could have been it was the sprocket was worn also

How do you hold the chain upside down to file the drive link edges? Vise?

 

[dall]

i did one at the gtg on @Definitive Dave race chains just held the chain in hand a good file doesnt much and you dont want to remove more material than is needed

 

[Philbert]

Copied my responses from an A.S. thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/deburing-drive-links.249436/

" . . . I frequently see drive links burred from jumping out of the guide bar groove when run too loose, or when branches get tangled. Here's what I have learned:

1. Flat file on the burrs. Round file to reshape the scraper/ gullet portion if needed. I do this on a small anvil, small block of steel, or the back of a machinists vice.
Slow, but effective.

2. Hold loop 'inside out' and guide drive links against grinding wheel on a bench grinder.
Faster, but leaves rough finish.

3. As above, but use a 3M ScotchBrite (or equivalent) deburring wheel ($30 - $50).
About as fast as a grinding wheel, but leaves a smooth finish. ***My preferred method.*** Expensive, but 'pays for itself' by saving even a few chains.

4. 'Redneck Method #1' : force burred links through the bars till they loosen up.
Not always possible. Causes extra wear on bars and sprockets.

5. . 'Redneck Method #2': lay burred drive link on small anvil and flatten burrs with ball peen hammer. Then follow up with . 'Redneck Method #1'.

6. I guess you could also clean up the burrs with a Dremel type tool. Never tried it."

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Also, info in this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...nding-and-drive-link-deburring-wheels.284866/

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Also, @Homelite410 built a drive link de-burring machine, inspired by the Franzen model
('Stens 052-909 Franzen De-Burr Attachment for Saw Chain Sharpener' available on Amazon)


Philbert'

 

[jakethesnake]

Maybe ask the fella if he wants that tried up for a couple bucks. Probably depends on the guy charge a couple bucks more ? Good question really. Feel like it's not your responsibility

 

[Philbert]

I would definitely charge a few bucks more. Takes more time than just cleaning out the gullets.

Philbert

 

[skidooguy]

I have use a flat file and works well but takes up time. If I need it done quickly I use a 90 degree die grinder with small scotch brite roll lock pad or fine sandpaper pad and use minimal pressure as to not get too western with it. I had a worn sprocket on my 2171 and jacked up a brand new chain so after that many drivers to file I found the roll lock pads to be a quick effective way to dress them back up.

 

[psuiewalsh]

I use a dremel white stone on small imperfections. On jacked up ones I use my maxx grinder with a blue wheel mounted in the up position, works good for removing extra bumper links on stihl safety chains too.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I mount a small grinding stone in my drill press and run it at about 3000 RPM. Slide the burred DL's along carefully, pointed up (cutters upside down). I usually check all of them. It doesn't take much grinding to get rid of the burrs, but burrs can run along the entire length of the DL.

One thing for sure -- it doesn't take much of a burr for a new bar to kick out or lock up the drive link. And, it doesn't take much of a chain jump or throw off to create the burrs.

 

[Redfin]

Bench grinder, side of the stone.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Bench grinder, side of the stone.

Any details?

 

[RD35]

Dremel with a 1/2" dia. rough grinding stone usually take about 2-3 minutes to fix any messed up driver. Hold chain folded backward in left hand...Dremel in right hand... and git-er-done!

 

[RD35]

Dremel with a 1/2" dia. rough grinding stone usually take about 2-3 minutes to fix any messed up driver. Hold chain folded backward in left hand...Dremel in right hand... and git-er-done! Fixed many a damaged chain this way!

 

[Redfin]

Any details?

Im not really sure how to be more clear? I use my bench grinder on the side instead of the face.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I'm not really sure how to be more clear? I use my bench grinder on the side instead of the face.

I tried that on a couple of drive links of 058 chain that I needed to take down to fit and add on to an 050 chain. It worked rather well. I used my angle grinder and smoothed it out with sand paper, checking for fit as I went along. So, a 70-link chain is now a 72-link chain.

 

[Manofstihl066]

I use the bench grinder and use the side of the stone like Redfin said. If u have this setup here's a good way to do it.