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Thinking of modding a 066

Jon_C

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So I have been tinkering with the idea of taking a BB'ed 066 with popup piston and doing some more interesting modding.

1. An 070, 090 carb for saws 105cc+

2. A reed box and custom intake (No blow back and better fuel air mix with more pressure through the transfers)

3. Opening up the ports

4. Opening the transfers and making them have bolt on covers similar to the 372 x-torq (Not to sure about his one but the theory is to open the transfers past the limits of the jug)

5. Adjust timing and squish for optimal running

6. Porting the exhaust to compensate for the other mods also at some point even putting on a tune pipe

Just some random thoughts I have strung together reading other post and tinkering with my own saws. Looking for others thoughts on the ideas above. Also looking for other ideas and thing other may have already tried.

And finally do you think this might be going to far for sanity or safety?
 

Jon_C

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While I would love to get an 088 it's not really the point of this. Though I would love to know how an 088 would do after having these ideas applied to it. Anyway sounds like you guys would say just get a bigger saw.
 

Armbru84

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Wouldn’t say that...are you hoping to stay in a certain class? Assuming 6 cube. I second the 084/088 carb. Would be cool to follow along as you do some of the mods.
 

Jon_C

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Well I would like to stick to the 066 mostly because those are what I have the most experience with. As far as the mods go I was trying to find out what others thought about them before I got to far into that rabbit hole to recover. Though I do have a messed up throttle body to play with and a couple boxes of parts for the 066. Just need a spare carb, a reed box, the BB kit I was already planning, and some time to tinker with the idea.
 

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You’re definitely jumping in the deep end.

1. An 084/088 carb will fit up a lot easier, be easier to find and provide all the intake area you will want.

2. Fitting a reed cage and machining a custom intake takes some time and there’s no going back.

3. Yeah. Port it for sure. You mentioned a BB kit. AM kits are known for short longevity, but are a cheap way to learn. Porting AM kits makes them more prone to chrome delamination so don’t expect a long term saw.

4. 660 transfers are a little on the simple and antiquated side, so you could probably do something cool there. Modding the saw for bottom fed quad transfers would be cool. If you extend the length of the transfers you will need to reduce the area relative to total transfer volume. A Reed and Pipe would help reduce the need for small transfers.

5. See #3

6. Start with a Mushroom muff and then work towards a Pipe.

Other stuff you can do:
Timing advance.
Modify stroke, crank and crank weights.
Piston/port match,
reduce piston/wrist pin weight
Trim the flywheel
Alcohol
2 piece cylinder
Beg Deets for advice, because he appears to have done all this stuff to a 660 already.


Yes, this project could drive you nuts. Yes, it could be very unsafe. Yes, it will be expensive and time consuming.
 
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Jon_C

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Yeah that's why I started this before I jump, I'm trying to see bottom. Though I think I might need a sonar rig to find it...

1. 084 with an 088 carb would be awesome but that is pretty far out side my price range at this time.

2. True but I think it would be worth it if it works.

3. I would rather muck up an after market P/C than an OEM P/C. I was not expecting this saw to last for 20+ years like my dad's 044. Though if I like how it turns out and it seems repeatable, or I think I could get about as good a saw with stock jug later I might try that with a CCC performance piston and go for a long term saw.

4. True. Not to sure about what I can get away with here. I think the limited space on the BB jug might be over came by bolting larger transfer to the outside of the jug. Bottom fed quad transfers? Not quite sure what you intend there. Did a quick google and while I think it would be cool, I think it would be pretty hard. Though with the bolt on idea I might be able to get something done.

6. Muffler mod and move to a tune pipe is the plan.

Other stuff you can do
Alcohol is a little to hot for what I would like to use the saw for. Correct me if I'm wrong but saws normally can't be ran for long with alcohol as the fuel.
Hadn't really thought about a 2 piece cylinder. Might make it a lot easier to get squish right.

Thought so, thought so, and my poor wallet.
 

Deets066

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Sounds like you need to port a few Jugs before you get too worked up about building this hot saw. I’m not trying to rain on your parade by any means. It just takes a lot of wrench time before you can build a saw of this caliber that your after.
 

Jon_C

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You are quite right. I do need to port more than a few saws and put some more time under my belt when it come to saws in general. This saw is my end goal, not my path to the saw, and I do know that. Mostly this is for checking if the concepts are viable. For example if someone said you can't put a reed valve box on a saw and explained why, that mod would have been out. Now this is not what happened so I am still seeking knowledge on the topic.

So I did some checking into reed valve boxes and found most are for specific machines not easily interchange. Though I found they make a couple of reed boxes for motorized bicycles and I think I might start by trying those on my motorized bikes. I would like to test them against the bad 066 fuel tank to see if they are close or way off. (one bike need the engine reinstalled anyway.)

Are there any parts or mods you would recommend to test first? I have some knowledge but not much in the way of practical experience. I've looked into porting, timing, and squish adjusting but never done any of them before. I have looking into muffler modding and modded a couple of my mufflers. One more because the muffler was a bad design that was sending heat back to the jug and melting the top cover. The other is my 372xp BB kit saw and from what I could tell just opening the muffler up a little made the saw very happy. Was trying to get close to the 70 to 80 percent exhaust port to muffler ratio. Think I ended up closer to 65 percent.

As I said early this saw is a long term goal not my next, nor a soon project. I am trying to start a shop and get some saws for sale. Next project is the BB 066 with popup piston and high volume oil pump for milling/ running a larger bar. Mostly because my last 066 BB kit saw was bought by a logger a little while back.
 

mdavlee

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Reed valves are cool but I’ve never gotten this one to run right. It’s got a wisecopiaton with holes drilled in the skirt to feed the boost ports so it’s no good for a regular jug later[emoji3525]

149db2a23b7700363b9cc011acbb7d6b.jpg
 

Jon_C

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Nice looking machine! :biggrin:

Well that machine looks a fare bit more modded than I had really planned to do. Though I guess that is the road I am looking down. Any ideas why you can't get her running tight? :confundio1:
 

Deets066

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You are quite right. I do need to port more than a few saws and put some more time under my belt when it come to saws in general. This saw is my end goal, not my path to the saw, and I do know that. Mostly this is for checking if the concepts are viable. For example if someone said you can't put a reed valve box on a saw and explained why, that mod would have been out. Now this is not what happened so I am still seeking knowledge on the topic.

So I did some checking into reed valve boxes and found most are for specific machines not easily interchange. Though I found they make a couple of reed boxes for motorized bicycles and I think I might start by trying those on my motorized bikes. I would like to test them against the bad 066 fuel tank to see if they are close or way off. (one bike need the engine reinstalled anyway.)

Are there any parts or mods you would recommend to test first? I have some knowledge but not much in the way of practical experience. I've looked into porting, timing, and squish adjusting but never done any of them before. I have looking into muffler modding and modded a couple of my mufflers. One more because the muffler was a bad design that was sending heat back to the jug and melting the top cover. The other is my 372xp BB kit saw and from what I could tell just opening the muffler up a little made the saw very happy. Was trying to get close to the 70 to 80 percent exhaust port to muffler ratio. Think I ended up closer to 65 percent.

As I said early this saw is a long term goal not my next, nor a soon project. I am trying to start a shop and get some saws for sale. Next project is the BB 066 with popup piston and high volume oil pump for milling/ running a larger bar. Mostly because my last 066 BB kit saw was bought by a logger a little while back.
I would lose the reed valve idea if I were you
 

Jon_C

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I think I will stick to more conventual modding for now. I had started this to get some info on the ideas I had, and what I found was some were interested, some said just get a bigger saw, some asked important questions. My thoughts on this matter have basically boiled down to do more research and build some more saw and see where things sit a few year from now. As for the reed valve idea it seems like if your saw didn't come with one don't add one.

Well that's where I'm at.

Thanks guys for the help/ info.
 

Michael Rupley

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Let me know if I am wrong about this. A reed saw uses the crankcase (pulse/pressure) to introduce the mixture. They don't put impediments to the crankcase except the reeds. They open and close at the best time for the most flow.
Now take a piston ported saw and put reeds on it and you are not getting the full benefit of the reeds because the piston may not be open enough of the time to achieve max. flow for the reeds. If putting reeds on a piston port saw was a good idea the racers would have done it long ago. Mike
 

lehman live edge slab

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Polaris makes a cylinder reed 440/550 fan snowmobile motor so they must work if done correctly. To do it correctly may not be possible adapting a current design though like an 066. Might take a specific crankcase design due to case volume ect.
 

Shane10

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Skip the reed and go straight to fuel injection!


If you’re talking direct injection. That would be awesome!!! And think you could then just get the piston just past TDC squirt some fuel then fire the plug and boom..... it’s running. You’re gonna need quite a bit of fuel pressure for that though. Think I’m the thousands. It’d be cool though


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