STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks very much. The saw currently has a NOS factory air filter with built in choke. Is there a particular model of WT-194 that is best for these saws?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

WT194 is the Walbro model guys like to run on them when they can find them. And I'd still check over that air filter to ensure the spring is working correctly and the choke flap is staying where it's supposed to stay when the saw is idling. You shouldn't be having to jump through all these hoops just to get the thing to idle correctly.

 

[Lone Wolf]

Well, the little 024 now starts easily and cuts great. I'm still having trouble getting it to idle continuously though. Coming out of the cut, it will idle down ok for about 10 seconds, then you can hear the rpms drop and you know you need to pull the trigger or it will die. As an experiment, I turned the idle up way high to where the chain is spinning and cut with it a few minutes. Problem solved, but obviously not a good idea.

I think I am having trouble getting just the right combo of low speed mixture and idle air flow. This saw seems way more sensitive to it than my Dolmar and Echoes are. I'm using an unbranded Zama replacement from Definitive Dave and currently the low speed screw is out 1.5 turns, high speed is out 1.75 turns. Fuel filter, fuel lines, and air filter are new. I'm thinking, maybe I should take an occasion to cut with it for at least 30 minutes and between cuts just reduce the idle speed a bit at a time until I find the sweet spot. That's all I can think of at this point. The saw passed vacuum and pressure tests no problem.

Try a new carb OEM.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks very much. Found a new one on Fleabay for $45.00, will order it on payday.

 

[RI Chevy]

I would still try and dial that carb that you have in. Good practice.
I have one of the carbs from DDave. It works fine. Can't tell the difference.

 

[Dub11]

Thanks very much. Found a new one on Fleabay for $45.00, will order it on payday.

Think outside that box and I might of missed something but could the clutch springs be weak?

 

[Lone Wolf]

I would still try and dial that carb that you have in. Good practice.
I have one of the carbs from DDave. It works fine. Can't tell the difference.

Only he tried already and it was vac and pressure tested so now try a new one OEM.

 

[RI Chevy]

Yup. I am with you on that. But..... I think if he goes back to the 1 and 1 preset and readjusts the LA screw, it may work better for him. I went through the same thing with the Chinese WT194 clone.

 

[Lone Wolf]

Yup. I am with you on that. But..... I think if he goes back to the 1 and 1 preset and readjusts the LA screw, it may work better for him. I went through the same thing with the Chinese WT194 clone.

Well yes but he ordered one already ,now we can eliminate the carb or cure the problem.

 

[Lone Wolf]

Yup. I am with you on that. But..... I think if he goes back to the 1 and 1 preset and readjusts the LA screw, it may work better for him. I went through the same thing with the Chinese WT194 clone.

Not all clones are set at 1and 1 that can mess a lot of people up too.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The clones I've used have worked right out of the box and just needed dialed in to suit the saw. Not that all of em are, but starting at the recommended preset is probably a good idea for most folks who end up having difficulty obtaining optimum results otherwise.

And it does take practice and experience to properly tune a saw..., and to understand and recognized all the variables that can affect the carb adjustments. If this particular saw won't idle correctly with the original carb or the clone, I'm revisiting the pressure/vac test, double checking the intake assembly to make sure the ring is inside the boot and the ring is around the boot where the carb meets the bulkhead, the throttle rod isn't bent, the throttle shaft spring is doing what it's supposed to do, the throttle plate is tight and installed correctly, split the air filter to inspect that damned choke flap and spring..., impulse.......

 

[FergusonTO35]

Payday's not 'til next week, so I'll fiddle with it some more until then. Thanks for all the advice!

 

[FergusonTO35]

Think outside that box and I might of missed something but could the clutch springs be weak?

I thought about that, however when the idle is at a reasonable speed the chain doesn't move. It idles for like 5-10 seconds and then dies. Snapping the throttle brings it back up.

 

[RI Chevy]

Do you have access to the operators manual?

 

[Lone Wolf]

The clones I've used have worked right out of the box and just needed dialed in to suit the saw. Not that all of em are, but starting at the recommended preset is probably a good idea for most folks who end up having difficulty obtaining optimum results otherwise.

And it does take practice and experience to properly tune a saw..., and to understand and recognized all the variables that can affect the carb adjustments. If this particular saw won't idle correctly with the original carb or the clone, I'm revisiting the pressure/vac test, double checking the intake assembly to make sure the ring is inside the boot and the ring is around the boot where the carb meets the bulkhead, the throttle rod isn't bent, the throttle shaft spring is doing what it's supposed to do, the throttle plate is tight and installed correctly, split the air filter to inspect that damned choke flap and spring..., impulse.......

Lots of clones fail right out of the box true story. If you get a good one buy more of them and keep them.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Yes, I have all the manuals courtesy of Ray Benson. The repair manual doesn't really shed any light on it beyond what has been discussed here.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Any new part can be no good, doesn't matter if OEM or aftermarket.

 

[RI Chevy]

Yes, I have all the manuals courtesy of Ray Benson. The repair manual doesn't really shed any light on it beyond what has been discussed here.

Go to the carb adjustment page. It gives good guidance on adjusting the LA and H and L screws.
I know its trivial, but I sometimes revert back to that if I am having a little difficulty with that LA screw.

 

[Lone Wolf]

Any new part can be no good, doesn't matter if OEM or aftermarket.

True but I will stake my reputation that the aftermarket stuff fails more!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Then why would I want to go buy a bunch of em just because I got lucky and one worked? LOL