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STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

brandonstclair20

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Is the gasket between the two muffler halves completely necessary? The stihl dealer wanted $15 for one. Stihl MS440


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FergusonTO35

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I would try a generous coat of anti-seize compound, that would probably seal well enough. There used to be a bondo-like product sold in a squeeze tube for sealing small exhaust leaks on cars, I bet that would work too.
 

Al Smith

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I didn't know that two piece muffler halves even had a gasket .None of mind do but then again they don't have any baffles or divertors either .Hmm the muffler troll must have stolen them when I wasn't watching:zpong:
 

Al Smith

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Tried it again today. Richening the screws doesn't make any difference, neither does turning up the idle. I think we have an air leak somewhere, and it's probably something I screwed up!
Stab in the dark .On some Walbros there is a little tiny slot in the throttle plate that has to align with the idle jet .If some how the plate gets turned just slightly they won't run properly .
 

RyeThomas

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Ok not sure if I'm in the right spot, I just had my 241c ported by Tree Monkey and the 14" bar I had on her is now a bit anemic. So I want to move up to a 16", issue is do I go with a 16" Rollomatic E 3/8"P .050" or go all out and get the E light in the same spec?
I'm all about light weight larger guide bars but does anyone have the weight difference in the E/E light in a 16"? I'm also finding it hard to find a 16" light? Just not sure it's worth it on such a small bugger?


Next question, keep the integrated (one piece) clutch drum/rim sprocket or change to a clutch drum (two piece) with removable rim sprocket. This is my first saw with the one piece and I'm not sure the advantages/disadvantages.

Thanks in advance fellas, Rye.

Oh and videos of the 241 were posted on the site in the saw video thread, it looks like it's going to rip through some wood. I'm excited to get her back!
 

lehman live edge slab

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Don't know if they make an e-lite in that small. I wouldn't really see the point even if they did, I think it's too small of a bar to really see any savings. Cost difference between them if they do make a lite version would be about double or maybe a little more looking at longer ones. I'd probably get the regular es 16" and use the extra money for the chain. And if you want to save more depending on how much you cut just buy a rollomatic e non replaceable tip bar. About 40$ new the es will be 60 ish.
 

RyeThomas

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Thanks guys I appreciate it. Be safe and have a great weekend, Rye.
 

farmer steve

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Ok not sure if I'm in the right spot, I just had my 241c ported by Tree Monkey and the 14" bar I had on her is now a bit anemic. So I want to move up to a 16", issue is do I go with a 16" Rollomatic E 3/8"P .050" or go all out and get the E light in the same spec?
I'm all about light weight larger guide bars but does anyone have the weight difference in the E/E light in a 16"? I'm also finding it hard to find a 16" light? Just not sure it's worth it on such a small bugger?


Next question, keep the integrated (one piece) clutch drum/rim sprocket or change to a clutch drum (two piece) with removable rim sprocket. This is my first saw with the one piece and I'm not sure the advantages/disadvantages.

Thanks in advance fellas, Rye.

Oh and videos of the 241 were posted on the site in the saw video thread, it looks like it's going to rip through some wood. I'm excited to get her back!
i have the 3/8P non-safety chain 16" bar on my 241 and it rips. as light as the saw is i wouldn't think the E light is worth the cost.
20170228_142119_resized.jpg
 

RyeThomas

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As stated above I guess the reason I couldn't find much info on the light in a 16" is it doesn't exist, ha well that explains it. The E bar will be fine for me. Now to find a 16" E with a couple loops for cheap.

The search begins...
 

CR888

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I have 3005 mount Stihl Light bars in 10"/12"&14". Pretty sure they do a 16" too. They make a big difference for sure, I run the 14" Light bar on my rear handle MS201 for a super light small limbing saw. I can give you part no's if you need them. I have them all in regular non light as well. They weigh more than 1/3 less weight.....to me its worth every penny.
 

nohoff

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The 3005 mount light bars are PITA.
The take a normal bar make big hole in it and fill it with some cheap plastic that melts at low temperatures, so the insert expands and causes the bar to stuck in the cut.
rollomatic e light 16" 3/8"P 1,3 mm 3005 000 7413 is available in germany.

I attached the stihl chain/bar summary.
 

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farmer steve

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As stated above I guess the reason I couldn't find much info on the light in a 16" is it doesn't exist, ha well that explains it. The E bar will be fine for me. Now to find a 16" E with a couple loops for cheap.

The search begins...
Just FYI. i checked what i paid for the 16" bar and 3 chains from my stihl dealer and it was about $74 before tax. that was the 63PM55 chain.
 

CR888

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I've never had issues with the filled resin expanding due to excess heat but I always use sharp chains and use them on pole saws, top handles, all sub 40cc saws. I have heard of the swelling problem but never experienced it myself.
 

FergusonTO35

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Ok, I got my rubber sealing strips and have a vacuum pump with gauge and an OEM Echo pressure test pump with gauge. Now, is it possible to pressure test the saw by sealing the area between the air filter and carb? Or, should I take off the carb and seal off the intake boot? Also, how would I seal off the impulse line? Finally, what vacuum and pressure specs should I be looking for on my 024?
 
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