POULAN The Official Poulan Thread

[Dream]

Steve, I pressure tested it before I started it up, and it held. I didnt pull a vacuum though. Maybe the seal got damaged by something. I'll have to check it out when I get a minute.

 

[S Sidwell]

Try soapy water

Steve Sidwell on Tapatalk

 

[S Sidwell]

For pressure testing i always dunk in bucket of water. Guess im not observant enough to detect soap bubbles. Also, very small leaks cant hide when in a bucket. Just sayin

I've never dunked one in water, after I've done cleaned it up. How do you keep water out of the oil tank?

Steve Sidwell on Tapatalk

 

[Cut4fun]

Todays pic

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Thanks Dream,

Fuel and oil is as below.

The impulse line ran from the entry to the crankcase I have shown into the oil tank, with a little check valve on the the tank end, to provide pressure from crankcase impulse, and prevent oil flowing back to the engine.

I just tried to pull the line out, it crumbled apart, ending with what I have shown in the picture.

I might be able to get better access if I pull the cylinder, otherwise it looks like I will have to push the old pieces into the crankcase.

In which case I really should be splitting the cases to ensure all the impulses line fragments are cleaned out, I was hoping there might be a magic way of avoiding this, wishful thinking

Part 95.
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/poulan20dchainsaw.pdf

All the darn Poulan's that I have has apart I have not had an xx apart. If it truly is an impulse it functions off the case pressure from the piston which should mean access from the cylinder side., no necessarily for line insertion but for cleaning. I'm thinking pieces will probably end up inside. I would just pull the cylinder and piston if needed. There may be enough room at TDC to dump some mix in the case swish around and dump out the pieces. Should just be a pressure fit with nothing special other than fuel line into the crank.

 

[countryhog]

I've never dunked one in water, after I've done cleaned it up. How do you keep water out of the oil tank?

Steve Sidwell on Tapatalk

Full oil tank and tighten lid. Any water that gets in is miniscule

 

[Fishnuts2]

Got another loud one going tonight. Found it on eBay. Cleaned it up, rebuilt the carb, added new lines and away we go!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Fishnuts2]

It wouldn’t surprise me a bit if some hearing aid salesmen set new sales records around Shreveport LA because of these outfits!

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[Dream]

Bet that is an ear burster!
Was looking at a model 31 last week that a guy has in the shop. It doesnt even have the snout on it. Just open exhaust port. Not sure it has Much effect one way or the other.

 

[Fishnuts2]

It's gottta be loud either way.

 

[fossil]

Thanks much. Onliest thing i dont like about these saws is the freakin fuel tank neck. Cant bring myself to toss my leaky ones. Still think i might eventually devise a repair. Not yet though

Someone I knew used string trimmer line as a filler for a cracked poly fuel tank. You might try that with a soldering iron.

A new tank is always better though.

 

[fossil]

Thanks. Maybe I'll try the double lip.

Make sure when you install the clutch side seal you build up the crank snout level with step where the seal rides or you may turn the seal inside out and likely cause the garter spring in the seal to fall out. If you use tape DON'T wrap any around the area where the seal rides.

There are a variety of ways to do that build up. I've found the easiest for that series is to lube up a short piece of deburred copper water pipe, slip the seal over that and drop it over the crank snout. Then slide the seal over the shoulder on the crankshaft and tap it in.

Single lip seals work as well as double lip. The outer lip on double lip seals are dust guards for use in abrasive environments. Most old saws and some newer ones came with single lip seals.

There are a few double lip seals for special applications that have two sealing lips but they are only made in a few sizes.

 

[fossil]

It's gottta be loud either way.

Pioneer made a saw with a "Whisper Muffler". It was still an ear bleeder. I think it may have been on a Holiday model

 

[S Sidwell]

Found you something dream, in you neck of the woods.

Steve on Tapatalk

 

[countryhog]

Someone I knew used string trimmer line as a filler for a cracked poly fuel tank. You might try that with a soldering iron.

A new tank is always better though.

Yeah already tried that. Not saying dont work but didnt for me. Not quitting trying just moving on for now

 

[countryhog]

Someone I knew used string trimmer line as a filler for a cracked poly fuel tank. You might try that with a soldering iron.

A new tank is always better though.

Yeah already tried that. Not saying dont work but didnt for me. Not quitting trying just moving on for now

 

[countryhog]

Make sure when you install the clutch side seal you build up the crank snout level with step where the seal rides or you may turn the seal inside out and likely cause the garter spring in the seal to fall out. If you use tape DON'T wrap any around the area where the seal rides.

There are a variety of ways to do that build up. I've found the easiest for that series is to lube up a short piece of deburred copper water pipe, slip the seal over that and drop it over the crank snout. Then slide the seal over the shoulder on the crankshaft and tap it in.

Single lip seals work as well as double lip. The outer lip on double lip seals are dust guards for use in abrasive environments. Most old saws and some newer ones came with single lip seals.

There are a few double lip seals for special applications that have two sealing lips but they are only made in a few sizes.

Some people use beer/soda cans wrapped around the fat part of crank. Gotta be sure the cut edges are totally deburred though. My personal favorite is semi rigid plastic rather than aluminum. Grease the aluminum or plastic, grease the seal lips, roll the plastic/aluminum up to where you can mount the seal on, mount correct end on crank, slide seal off and remove sleeve. Easy peasy when you get the hang of it

 

[Dream]

Found you something dream, in you neck of the woods.

Steve on Tapatalk

Thanks Steve. I'll check it out.
Old and loud, two of my favorite qualities in a saw. Third being heavy, but I dont like that part as much.

 

[Sawrain]

Maybe this helps:

http://opeforum.com/attachments/20-service-manual-pdf.182866/

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Part 95.
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/poulan20dchainsaw.pdf

All the darn Poulan's that I have has apart I have not had an xx apart. If it truly is an impulse it functions off the case pressure from the piston which should mean access from the cylinder side., no necessarily for line insertion but for cleaning. I'm thinking pieces will probably end up inside. I would just pull the cylinder and piston if needed. There may be enough room at TDC to dump some mix in the case swish around and dump out the pieces. Should just be a pressure fit with nothing special other than fuel line into the crank.

I've just covered the opening into case with a few layers of aluminium tape and blocked the line into the tank for now, it has a manual oil thumb pump.

Saws runs good, though I had to set the idle higher than I like, I'll complete the repair later, realistically the saw will never get used in anger, but it's always nice to know they are in operational condition.

 

[old_sir_henry]

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