POULAN The Official Poulan Thread

[Dream]

Will this work to seal cases, or do I need Yamabond/threebond?

 

[Stump Shot]

Will this work to seal cases, or do I need Yamabond/threebond? View attachment 201135

If it says it is resistant to gas and oil it should be fine. Most if not all of the silicone products are oil only. I use three bond myself.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Fuel system is crispest I have about ever seen, tank cleaning and new line and filter wasn't enough, going to have to rebuild the little Zama too. Otherwise in good shape.

View attachment 201133

Awwwww look at that little fella!

I need to run mine more.

 

[S Sidwell]

I use GM gray sealant, haven't had any problems with it. When cured, butt to take back apart. Plus I got butt loads of it at work, FREE. Warranty jobs take care of the costs.

S Sidwell on Tapatalk

 

[S Sidwell]

Got the 3400 apart today. Only bled once. Stupid rear av mount screw!
Looks pretty good in there. Cant really tell where the sealant gave out, but there is one spot that looks suspicious. Piston cleaned up nice with just a little wire brushing and scotch brite. Bearings all look good. Want to at least replace crank seals while I'm in this deep. Anyone got an aftermarket number for those?
Also seems the gas tank doesnt come out til the case is split, correct? Goes in the flywheel case half from the clutch side.View attachment 201130 View attachment 201131 View attachment 201132

Gas tank should just slid out, can be a pain sometimes. Had to take my kill switch off the last one I took out and move the wire out of the way.

S Sidwell on Tapatalk

 

[S Sidwell]

On the crankshaft seal
National 530019097. AutoZone or Advanced Auto can get them, less than $5 a piece. Both sides the same.

S Sidwell on Tapatalk

 

[S Sidwell]

Got the 3400 apart today. Only bled once. Stupid rear av mount screw!
Looks pretty good in there. Cant really tell where the sealant gave out, but there is one spot that looks suspicious. Piston cleaned up nice with just a little wire brushing and scotch brite. Bearings all look good. Want to at least replace crank seals while I'm in this deep. Anyone got an aftermarket number for those?
Also seems the gas tank doesnt come out til the case is split, correct? Goes in the flywheel case half from the clutch side.View attachment 201130 View attachment 201131 View attachment 201132

Did you have any dull gray spots in the crankcase sealing area, if so I believe that would have been the leak area.

S Sidwell on Tapatalk

 

[Dream]

Thanks for the part number Steve. Stumpshot, I'm glad you said that. This says not to use where contact with gas may occur. Gonna order some threebond. Too much of a PITA to take back apart. Here are the casings cleaned and ready for new crank seals.

 

[S Sidwell]

Pretty, if it was me, I'd install the oil pump and new rubber oil line while you have it apart. Much easier to install line and it not bunch up when trying to install it later. Mine had bunched up the first time and didn't know it. Found it when I split the case on a rebuild. Reuse that long oil line spring, I use Echo black rubber fuel line, don't want to take it apart using the yellow line. I'm slowly changing over from tygon to echo, seems to last a lot longer and doesn't draw up or get stiff.

S Sidwell on Tapatalk

 

[Dream]

Thats good to know.
I had to replace the line. It broke off at the pump. I did reuse the spring.

 

[fossil]

Will this work to seal cases, or do I need Yamabond/threebond? View attachment 201135

I looked the technical data sheet for the Ultra Grey and it's not recommended for parts in contact with gasoline.
Get some Permatex Motoseal.

For the seals, I think Steve meant National 253747. National is now Timken. Also SKF CR6119 or CR6120 which are about 0.001"smaller on the OD and go in much easier.

 

[old_sir_henry]

Fuel system is crispest I have about ever seen, tank cleaning and new line and filter wasn't enough, going to have to rebuild the little Zama too. Otherwise in good shape.

All the little Poulans (and badge engineered ones) I‘ve had my hands on seem to suffer from brittle if not
already broken fuel lines. And the S25 has a very long line from tank in the rear bottom up and all the way
through the handle and finally reaching the carb. If tis line gets drained, the you'll have to pull the starter
quite a few times...
BTW interesting your's has a Zama, mine all seem to have Tillotson or Walbro.

 

[Stump Shot]

All the little Poulans (and badge engineered ones) I‘ve had my hands on seem to suffer from brittle if not
already broken fuel lines. And the S25 has a very long line from tank in the rear bottom up and all the way
through the handle and finally reaching the carb. If tis line gets drained, the you'll have to pull the starter
quite a few times...
BTW interesting your's has a Zama, mine all seem to have Tillotson or Walbro.

It does have a Walbro after taking a better look in there.

Thanks for the correction.

 

[S Sidwell]

I looked the technical data sheet for the Ultra Grey and it's not recommended for parts in contact with gasoline.
Get some Permatex Motoseal.

For the seals, I think Steve meant National 253747. National is now Timken. Also SKF CR6119 or CR6120 which are about 0.001"smaller on the OD and go in much easier.

Thanks for the catch, I messed up coping the wrong number. I posted Poulan part# by mistake. So sorry, I should have looked closer at my numbers.

S Sidwell on Tapatalk

 

[S Sidwell]

Taper the cases some to help get the seals in easier, doesn't take a lot. I use my pocket knife. Clean out chips real good when done and lube the seals lip some.

S Sidwell on Tapatalk

 

[Dream]

Thanks Tim. I picked up a tube of Motoseal yesterday.
Steve, I came to the same conclusion on the part number, after the supply house tried to find them. Have those on the way.

 

[S Sidwell]

Sorry about that.

Steve Sidwell on Tapatalk

 

[S Sidwell]

Be nice if there was an attachment we could put on this thread for seals and bearings. That way you could just look and see whatcha need.

Steve Sidwell on Tapatalk

 

[Dream]

No problem Steve. I appreciate the help. I just measured the shaft size, then popped one seal out and took it to the local industrial supply. They are about 4 bucks each, so I ordered two spares.
I do agree if there was a way to put a sticky on here with OEM to aftermarket numbers etc for the different brands, that would save a lot of repeat questions.

 

[heimannm]

As far as I know this list was put together by Aaron Lynch and others.

Mark