POULAN The Official Poulan Thread

[S Sidwell]

Cut has posted a few of them, nice looking saws. That one looks real nice.

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[Cut4fun]

I've had a few from this series of saws over the years, real good runners they are. I just wasn't sure if this one was a chrome bore cylinder or not, either way I figure it's worth $50 all day. I like the color combo, I've never had one in black.

chrome bore

 

[Cut4fun]

Poulan 4000 I took on trade yesterday. Shows just a hair over 130psi for the thin ring topend.

Showing the difference in the 4000 recoil pulley and 3400 pulley. The 4000 flywheel I was told had a issue so the 3400 flywheel and recoil was used.

The 4000 rear handle was broke so I was told the 3400 handle was put in it's place. You can see the 4000 handle half that is left is lot less use.

The auto oiler works, didnt try the manual.

It does start up and take throttle, but IMO acts like it has a air leak. I would guess a crank seal, being it changes when done side to side.

I will sell whole with the extra 4000 parts included or I will possibly part out. If you price the air filter cover, 4000 high top air filter, 4000 pulley 4000 recoil, 4000 topend. You will notice they are high. I will sell whole cheaper then parting it out. Just so you know up front.

PHO $125 plus shipping or trade for?

 

[Cut4fun]

rest

 

[Cut4fun]

Last owner said he put in a carb kit and fuel line. I seen the duckbill for tank vent too but on old line.

 

[Cut4fun]

4000 SPF

 

[Dream]

Pretty dead in here. Havent had time to mess with my grey and black 3400 in awhile. Need to sort out an air leak. Mentioned here awhile back. Probably oiler pump diaphragm.

 

[Fishnuts2]

Been working on my old Model 53 sand cast off and on for 2 months getting it restored and cutting.

It wouldn’t run good enough to cut at the IA GTG, so I changed clutch springs and fixed the starter recoil. Then it started going lean in a small log so I went after the carb and rebuilt it again. Now it’s puking fuel out of the carb and I traced it to the vent which is just a screw into the fuel tank. The inside of the tank had a varnish like coating that must have plugged the vent. Pressure testing the tank showed holding 15 lb. so I figured I better get the screw open. Small vise grip got it twisted out finally.

Took a pin to clean the varnish off the threads. Now it will breath both ways and no pressure buildup.

Plus, every time the carb has to come out of the worst possible place on any saw.

I’ve done it so many times that I’ve got it down to about 10 minutes from scratch.

The left side is the worst as the recoil and covers have to come off for access to the nut and not much room at that.

Still not right, so I’m thinking maybe the reeds are leaking, I’m keeping at it till it’s fixed!


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[Fishnuts2]

Does anyone here know what the needle valve pop off should be? This one breaks at around 25#.
Thx!


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[countryhog]

Anyone got a line on a clutch cover for a gray craftsman 3.7? Barring a gray one I’d look at another color

 

[fossil]

Does anyone here know what the needle valve pop off should be? This one breaks at around 25#.
Thx!


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As long as it's holding steady at about 10 psi or better you're good to go.

I don't usually test above 10 or 12 psi but for the heck of it I took one to 35 psi before I stopped. It still didn't pop.

From the Walbro repair manual,

 

[Fishnuts2]

As long as it's holding steady at about 10 psi or better you're good to go.

I don't usually test above 10 or 12 psi but for the heck of it I took one to 35 psi before I stooped. It still didn't pop.

From the Walbro repair manual,

View attachment 181932

Thanks much! I've looked at a lot of threads about this subject, but never saw the clip you found. Makes sense. I did notice that larger carbs had larger pop off numbers, I was thinking that maybe the pulses for the fuel pump were larger and needed stronger metering lever springs to control the fuel level.
The quest continues!

 

[fossil]

Thanks much! I've looked at a lot of threads about this subject, but never saw the clip you found. Makes sense. I did notice that larger carbs had larger pop off numbers, I was thinking that maybe the pulses for the fuel pump were larger and needed stronger metering lever springs to control the fuel level.
The quest continues!

That is from the Walbro service manual which doesn't seem to be on their site anymore.

Copy here on a cloud site I use.

https://app.box.com/s/vee4p32zuxpb2xnfvlm05wjaibsizekk


Individual Walbro carb manuals (not all) are on the Walbro site here

https://www.walbro.com/service-manuals/

 

[old_sir_henry]

Hi folks,

I have a Poulan XX on my workbench, actually she's labeled DOLMAR hobby 100, and she's missing the entire fuel line including filter head.



I have already managed to install a new fuel line without opening the crank case and will add a 12 mm ø aftermarket filter head, but what I need to know is how the fuel line is routed from tank to carb: Below the flywheel or above it and then turned around the right side of the carb to its bottom fuel connector?

 

[acornhill]

Hi folks,

I have a Poulan XX on my workbench, actually she's labeled DOLMAR hobby 100, and she's missing the entire fuel line including filter head.

View attachment 182917 View attachment 182918

I have already managed to install a new fuel line without opening the crank case and will add a 12 mm ø aftermarket filter head, but what I need to know is how the fuel line is routed from tank to carb: Below the flywheel or above it and then turned around the right side of the carb to its bottom fuel connector?

If I remember below the flywheel underneath of it along side the coil wire, the bear is the Oiler system and line that goes in the crank case for pressure. If you need that the case will need to be split.


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[old_sir_henry]

If I remember below the flywheel underneath of it along side the coil wire, the bear is the Oiler system and line that goes in the crank case for pressure. If you need that the case will need to be split.

Thanks for the hint!

I have removed flywheel and starter recoil and reckon this should be the best route, as @acornhill recommended:



However, there is no oiler system on the flywheel side of the saw, both lines are being held down by a tin disk to prevent them chafing at the starter recoil:



Could have figured out myself

 

[Fishnuts2]

I picked up some new needle bearings for the connecting rod on my model 53 sandcast. The set has 24, but I only found 23 upon disassembly. Apparently one found it’s way out the exhaust, but didn’t stay very long in the “muffler “!

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[S Sidwell]

L u c k yyyy. Muffler, what muffler, that's a shaker hood scoop.

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[old_sir_henry]

Looks like she's a screamer...

 

[S Sidwell]

My new $80 addition to the stable. Got it pulled down for a full inspection. Looks to be low hours on this one. Still had dino oil in the carb so I believe it's been sitting for awhile.

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