MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[T.Roller]

I mounted the 32" that came with my 125. When the clutch cover is tightened up it pinches my chain to the point it won't turn. I did find some "spacers" from mcculloch on ebay so I ordered them. Hope it fixes the problem.

 

[sawfun]

--however keep in mind that 125 probably was sold in that area when it was new .That saw was never popular outside the realm of the large PNW trees .I'm certain even back then they were very expensive .One of mine came from Oregon,the other California but they had adjustable jets .

Outside of the PNW, Australia, and a few big hardwood trees in other areas, there isn't much use for a 125 other than it's a cool piece of history designed to slay the largest plants on the planet. Much like elephant guns, the fascination with power and ability to take down about anything alive is often intriguing. I'd say elephant guns and old growth killer saws have a lot in common. In today's world, most will never be used for their intended purpose.

 

[sawfun]

--however keep in mind that 125 probably was sold in that area when it was new .That saw was never popular outside the realm of the large PNW trees .I'm certain even back then they were very expensive .One of mine came from Oregon,the other California but they had adjustable jets .

Outside of the PNW, Australia, and a few big hardwood trees in other areas, there isn't much use for a 125 other than it's a cool piece of history designed to slay the largest plants on the planet. Much like elephant guns, the fascination with power and ability to take down about anything alive is often intriguing. I'd say elephant guns and old growth killer saws have a lot in common. In today's world, most will never be used for their intended purpose.

 

[sawfun]

View attachment 101407 I mounted the 32" that came with my 125. When the clutch cover is tightened up it pinches my chain to the point it won't turn. I did find some "spacers" from mcculloch on ebay so I ordered them. Hope it fixes the problem.

I've used the covers that are larger and have the tops and bottoms tilted out. Also those appear the same and I think the inside one is different due to the oil passageway but I cannot say for sure.

 

[T.Roller]

I've used the covers that are larger and have the tops and bottoms tilted out. Also those appear the same and I think the inside one is different due to the oil passageway but I cannot say for sure.

The regular large plates are on the saw. Seems as if the back of the bar was wider I wouldn't have a problem. Seems the chain rides to low on the plate.

 

[heimannm]

Those spacers were intended for use with slimline bars but they certainly solve a lot of issues with other bars when and where the chain might otherwise drag on the bar plates or the frame and clutch cover. The old McCulloch bars had a very wide tail...



Mark

 

[T.Roller]

Those spacers were intended for use with slimline bars but they certainly solve a lot of issues with other bars when and where the chain might otherwise drag on the bar plates or the frame and clutch cover. The old McCulloch bars had a very wide tail...

View attachment 101420

Mark

Awesome, hopefully it will solve my problem

 

[Al Smith]

I used an inner bar spacer/gasket made from a Budweiser can to adapt a 36" Stihl mount on one of my 125's .On the 2100 Homelite which it's also modified for it can run the same Stihl driver count on the Homelites 8 tooth .404 .However there is enough difference on the McCulloch bar studs it only works with a 7 tooth using those drivers .Just trivia stuff .

 

[cm76]

--however keep in mind that 125 probably was sold in that area when it was new .That saw was never popular outside the realm of the large PNW trees .I'm certain even back then they were very expensive .One of mine came from Oregon,the other California but they had adjustable jets .

The 125's were a popular saw out here in Australia for the large hardwoods. They were std issue to the Forestry Commission for a number of years, and rightly so. I've never heard a pro faller say a bad thing about the 125's when they were the saw of choice back in the day. I will have to do a comparison between the Australian 125C's and the US 125C's that I have. These are all fitted with the Tillotson HS124B carb, so all should be an even playing field. I think there will be little between them as they are all healthy and strong running saws. I need to check the elevation side of things.

 

[T.Roller]

Does anyone know the part number for the fuel line on a 125? I ordered one online and it's not right . The one I have is a 94899.

 

[Al Smith]

69312

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Ditto.

 

[Al Smith]

Out of curiosity I looked up the jet sizes for the SP125 with a fixed jet .As I suspected there where several from 26 to 31 thou with 29 thou listed as standard .Odd indeed because the air box did have a plug in it so you could adjust the high speed jet if it had one so it might have been an option and not the rule that it came with only a fixed jet .My SP 105 which was a fixed jet and didn't have a hole until I made one .

I think also it might have had to do when it was made because in the case specially of the 125 many have commented on how they were painted .My two one has a yellow air cover and yellow top and the other is all black ---and the SP 105 is all black and I know for a fact that saw was never repainted .Being McCulloch none of this surprises me .

 

[T.Roller]

Out of curiosity I looked up the jet sizes for the SP125 with a fixed jet .As I suspected there where several from 26 to 31 thou with 29 thou listed as standard .Odd indeed because the air box did have a plug in it so you could adjust the high speed jet if it had one so it might have been an option and not the rule that it came with only a fixed jet .My SP 105 which was a fixed jet and didn't have a hole until I made one .

I think also it might have had to do when it was made because in the case specially of the 125 many have commented on how they were painted .My two one has a yellow air cover and yellow top and the other is all black ---and the SP 105 is all black and I know for a fact that saw was never repainted .Being McCulloch none of this surprises me .

What is the one I have for?

 

[T.Roller]

Any tips on where to find one. I'm not having any luck

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

What is the one I have for?

The 600 series.

 

[T.Roller]

The 600 series.

Well if anyone needs one I have a new one lol

 

[heimannm]

T - a couple of work arounds for the SP125 fuel line. As we discussed, if it is just weeping a bit because it is loose in the tank, pull it out and put a few wraps of Teflon thread tape around the grommet then pull it back in place.

If the fuel line it shot, see if you can find a grommet that fits snuggly in the hole in the tank, then pull you favorite Tygon or other fuel like through the grommet, a little soapy water will help if the fit is very tight. Just make sure the I.D. of the fuel line is big enough to fit over the bar fitting on the carburetor, you can always find a fuel filter to fit the line.

Regarding the fuel cap, there is a duck bill valve under the sintered metal breather in the fuel cap.





If the duck bill is bad, carefully punch the sintered metal breather (capillary seal, 55063) out, clean out all of the residue and install the new duck bill. Bob Johnson usually has them for $6 plus shipping, or you can order 10 or more from Elder Rubber in Texas, part number 53766.

Be sure to seat the breather/capillary seal firmly to keep the duck bill sealed up. I find that in many cases just reseating the capillary seal/breather will keep the cap from leaking if the duck bill valve is O.K. but loose. I have a large brass punch that matches the O.D. of the breather/capillary seal very nicely.



This particular cap only needed to have the breather/capillary seal reseated to keep it from leaking.

Mark

 

[T.Roller]

T - a couple of work arounds for the SP125 fuel line. As we discussed, if it is just weeping a bit because it is loose in the tank, pull it out and put a few wraps of Teflon thread tape around the grommet then pull it back in place.

If the fuel line it shot, see if you can find a grommet that fits snuggly in the hole in the tank, then pull you favorite Tygon or other fuel like through the grommet, a little soapy water will help if the fit is very tight. Just make sure the I.D. of the fuel line is big enough to fit over the bar fitting on the carburetor, you can always find a fuel filter to fit the line.

Regarding the fuel cap, there is a duck bill valve under the sintered metal breather in the fuel cap.

View attachment 101564

View attachment 101566

If the duck bill is bad, carefully punch the sintered metal breather (capillary seal, 55063) out, clean out all of the residue and install the new duck bill. Bob Johnson usually has them for $6 plus shipping, or you can order 10 or more from Elder Rubber in Texas, part number 53766.

Be sure to seat the breather/capillary seal firmly to keep the duck bill sealed up. I find that in many cases just reseating the capillary seal/breather will keep the cap from leaking if the duck bill valve is O.K. but loose. I have a large brass punch that matches the O.D. of the breather/capillary seal very nicely.

View attachment 101567

This particular cap only needed to have the breather/capillary seal reseated to keep it from leaking.

Mark

Mark thank you very much. My duckbill is like putty so a new one is definitely in order. The fuel line is still in good shape , just weeping a bit around the tank. I'll try the Teflon trick and report back.

 

[heimannm]

I did not get to spend any time on saws today, Mrs. Heimann wanted me to turn an old coaster wagon into an outdoor side table for my daughter in law. I hade to "manufacture" the lumber on my table saw from some packing material I picked up at work last week. Poplar I think.





It is supposed to be "rustic".

Mark