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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

mdavlee

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Mike I just checked it out. I was wrong as it has a 9 pin rim in 404. I wrapped a 3/8 around
it and came up with 89 drives but that is still with the 404 rim on it. So it will be a little off.
I don't have any big 3/8 rims so don't worry about a chain for me at this time. Not sure I can
get one from Danzco that quick.
Ok. Biggest 3/8" gear I have is an 11.
 

Al Smith

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While McCulloch fame comes from kart engines and chainsaws they made a complete line of other things many people don't know much about .I have a few blowers and weed wackers and they do a real good job,as good as anything made today .They turn up at yard saws for cheap and usually not much else is needed except a carb refresh .
 

Lowry

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Howdy folks, new to the forum and just picked up this 550 of CL in running condition. Someone put a new carb on it recently, and from the looks of the saw it has very little time on it.
After looking around i havent been able to find a great deal of info on this saw out there on the interwebs other than engine size and years built. Im planning to disassemble, clean, and repaint, but new gaskets may prove to be hard gettin, so before I tear it apart i may wait to see what ya'll have to say. Any info that can be passed on would be appreciated. 20170922_150540.jpg
 
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Lightning Performance

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Howdy folks, new to the forum and just pick up this 550 of CL in running condition. Someone put a new carb on it recently, and from the looks of the saw it has very little time on it.
After looking around i havent been able to find a great deal of info on this saw out there on the interwebs other than engine size and years built. Im planning to disassemble, clean, and repaint, but new gaskets may prove to be hard gettin, so before I tear it apart i may wait to see what ya'll have to say. Any info that can be passed on would be appreciated. View attachment 89957
Prime working example. I vote do not restore.
 

Sleeper

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Keep it as it is... looks nice and you won't have to cut out new gaskets for it.

If it runs properly, that is... if you notice it starts acting funny and running lean and weird behaviors like that, shut it off right away and check the crank seals.

Best way to check crank seals without tearing the saw apart is make sure the saw is running right sitting normally... then after you confirm mixtures and idle speed are right, tilt it onto its side, if it idles up on either side (left or port, right or starboard) then the seal facing up is likely leaking, especially if it doesn't respond to adjustment of the low side mixture screw.

If the seals are really bad, the saw won't even run. So the fact that it runs tends to say a lot about its condition.
 

Lowry

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Sleeper might have called it. Either the crank seals are leaking or there is an issue with the fuel supply.
As soon as I pick it up it dies. And then becomes extremely hard to start or wont start.
Whos got some tips on rebuilding the pull start so that it doesnt squeel and returns the line quicker?
 

Sleeper

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Sleeper might have called it. Either the crank seals are leaking or there is an issue with the fuel supply.
As soon as I pick it up it dies. And then becomes extremely hard to start or wont start.
Whos got some tips on rebuilding the pull start so that it doesnt squeel and returns the line quicker?

Check the fuel filter first... then the screen in the carb inlet.

Or you have a fuel line with a crack in it. Or the saw isn't adjusted right, or needs fuel to sit in the carb for a while due to a dry diaphragm.

Sometimes the carb will sort itself out if it is dry and/or varnished, sometimes it needs a kit.

Seals... well if it dies when you pick it up, check the kill switch, maybe you are accidentally killing the saw when you grab it, or it's loose and moves on its own.

If none of the above works, then seals...

Carb shouldn't need more than 1-1.5 turns out on both screws, and idle screw should be set high for initial low side tuning, and set for minimal to no chain movement...

Plus, before messing with screws, let the saw warm up... if it's tuned cold, it won't start easy when hot.
 

Al Smith

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I've seen the fuel systems so fouled with varnished fuel from sitting forever you never will start it .It might fire on a prime and idle for ten seconds but that about it .Not to worry old Macs never really die they just need a little attention now and again .
 

heimannm

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There are a couple of nylon bushings in the starter, should be a simple as pulling the starter apart (the "clutch" is a LH thread) and cleaning/lubricating the bushings and the starter shaft.

Mark
 

Al Smith

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If the old gal is as stiff as a bride grooms,ahem give it a good shot of WD-40 and let it soak in .If it will fire once you have little run time it will come around .I'm tellin ya Macs die hard .
 

Lowry

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Well i started by dumping out the fresh fuel I had just put in not but a day ago, and it came out black. Uh oh. So the decision was made to pull the tank apart. So glad i did as it had about 2 tablespoons of dirt in the bottom. The filter, filter hose and hose all look good. The carb had been replaced recently as the casting looks brand new. I decided to pull the fuel pump from the carb to clean it and the screens out. I didn't see any dirt. So that was a relief. I pulled out both needles and gave the passages a quick clean with carb spray to rid the varnish.

One thing I did think was interesting was the 2 gaskets and a metal plate between them that go between the carb and reed manifold. Is that normal?
 

Lowry

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There are a couple of nylon bushings in the starter, should be a simple as pulling the starter apart (the "clutch" is a LH thread) and cleaning/lubricating the bushings and the starter shaft.

Mark

Thank you. I will give this a shot
 

Al Smith

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That black is the fuel line coming apart .That stuff will suck right through the filter and lodge in the screen believe it or not . I've already pressure washed the tank several times to get rid of the crud .If you don't get it out you will become a expert disassembling the carb .
 
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