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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

Frank bierce

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I probably have all of those that I can spare. Came off donor saw for my Kart saw. Are you in a hurry? might take me a minute to dig them up. I'm working long days until the 19th then family xmas trip then more long days til the holidays are over.
Sounds good. I’m in no big hurry at all. Thanks!!
 

Yukon Stihl

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I probably have all of those that I can spare. Came off donor saw for my Kart saw. Are you in a hurry? might take me a minute to dig them up. I'm working long days until the 19th then family xmas trip then more long days til the holidays are over.
Any chance you have the McCulloch socket for the kart rod bolts? Or an extra bolt?
 

Al Smith

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Here' the deal on those damned splined bolts .I personally think it was just an early attempt to make things all OEM .The bolts and the sockets are next to impossible to find and even then they think they are made of gold .There's a remedy because I've done it on one of my 125's plus made about 6 I sent out .The original bolt is a 10-32 x 5/8" .The width over the splines is .264 ,over the flange is .311 .
If you have or know somebody that has a lathe and knows how to operate it they are fairly easy to make a standard socket head cap screw work .Drill and tap a short piece of cold roll steel to 10-32 and screw the cap screw in . Chuck it up and cut the head to around .264 or or so leaving a flange at the bottom which is usually right even with the serrations on the screw .Use a good grade of grade 8 screw .I like Hollo-Krome brand myself with a tensil strength of 180,000 pounds PSI .Relatively cheap at around 15 bucks a hundred . A seller on flea bay is trying to fetch $99 for two screws plus the socket .
At the moment my Monarch tool makers lathe is down for repairs so I can't help out .
 

jacob j.

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Sounds good. I’m in no big hurry at all. Thanks!!

I've got all that stuff too, that I could send your way this week.

Any chance you have the McCulloch socket for the kart rod bolts? Or an extra bolt?

I think I have the "L" wrench somewhere that I could loan you. I loaned out the socket I had and never got it back. Al's fix is the best as far as new rod bolts go.

There's no need to pay big bucks for those special configuration Mac rod bolts, especially for a kartsaw motor.
 

Steve

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Yeah, where do I get one of those?

Ebay. There was just a discussion a page or so back on that very line. I prefer the kit that allows you to convert to standard fuel line. Others prefer the original style molded line. You just have to make sure you put the spring from the old line into the new line so it wont kink if you go with the molded line.
 

Deets066

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Ebay. There was just a discussion a page or so back on that very line. I prefer the kit that allows you to convert to standard fuel line. Others prefer the original style molded line. You just have to make sure you put the spring from the old line into the new line so it wont kink if you go with the molded line.
That would be fine, but I’m assuming mine doesn’t have a spring now.
 

Steve

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That would be fine, but I’m assuming mine doesn’t have a spring now.
I have found some have it and some dont. It will only be from the carb to the tank. You have to cut the old line apart to get the spring out with out damaging it. Then install it into the new line before installation.
 

Yukon Stihl

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Here' the deal on those damned splined bolts .I personally think it was just an early attempt to make things all OEM .The bolts and the sockets are next to impossible to find and even then they think they are made of gold .There's a remedy because I've done it on one of my 125's plus made about 6 I sent out .The original bolt is a 10-32 x 5/8" .The width over the splines is .264 ,over the flange is .311 .
If you have or know somebody that has a lathe and knows how to operate it they are fairly easy to make a standard socket head cap screw work .Drill and tap a short piece of cold roll steel to 10-32 and screw the cap screw in . Chuck it up and cut the head to around .264 or or so leaving a flange at the bottom which is usually right even with the serrations on the screw .Use a good grade of grade 8 screw .I like Hollo-Krome brand myself with a tensil strength of 180,000 pounds PSI .Relatively cheap at around 15 bucks a hundred . A seller on flea bay is trying to fetch $99 for two screws plus the socket .
At the moment my Monarch tool makers lathe is down for repairs so I can't help out .
Thanks for the solution for replacing them.
I still need to get them out of this engine,and it is seized at the moment.
 

Al Smith

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This may not be of any use but I found an old Mac dealer who was at the time a Stihl dealer who had the splined socket .I didn't have the tool myself at the time .Fact I didn't have one for about 8 years after .I didn't even have the internet at the time .No IPL's nothing .
That dealer thought I was crazy when I bought a 24" loop of Stihl .404 x .063 for a Mac super 44A for 40 bucks then told me in about 1960-61 he won 49 out of
50 feature kart races with that same engine Mc 10
 

Al Smith

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Now then,stuck engine .Tear the whole thing down to the basic block assembly and toss it in a bucket full of kerosene for about a month . That might shake it loose might not .If it's stuck above the ports you might try what I did on a stuck Partner P100 .Take a spark plug and knock the insulator out of it and braze,weld a grease zert in it and use a grease gun full of oil to hydraulically move the piston .It will either come or bleed .All you have to do is move it about 1/8" .
If I recall the automotive plug I used M14 1.25 once the insulator was out the hole it left was the same size as 1/4" pipe which I tapped out to same and used a 1/4" to 1/8" reducing bushing to install the zert . I'll check it out next week end or first next week after I get back from a "honey moon".--I'm old but I sure as hell am not dead .:applaudit:
 

Al Smith

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This is the general idea I was talking about .This one however is for an 18 MM plug ,the 14 mm DSCN0430[1].JPG DSCN0430[1].JPG is hiding from me at the moment
 

Teemore

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Mac Users and repairers: have any of you successfully refurbished badly worn Right Hand Starters by
dressing the "teeth" of the starter drum ratchet and the starter pawls?​
or
by building up the ratchet teeth with weld and dressing that back?
Replacement right hand starter drums/ratchets seem to be in short supply from, especially in the UK and Ireland.

By way of explanation, I have a "presumed" 2-10 that is an absolute pain in the nether regions to start as the starter pawls are routinely slipping out of the (very) worn ratchet in the starter drum (four teeth).... I'll get around to photographing the presumed 2-10 for identification purposes at a later date (Decal worn back to silver, no tag in the air box and no witness marks to indicate it ever had one, 3 screw automatic oiler)
PS - a nice Pro 10-10 arrived with me yesterday! 16" Mac B&C. Hope to get a chance to run it in timber this weekend.
 

Teemore

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Thanks Mark. The 2-10 has already "borrowed" the handle from a Frontier 55 - a box of bits I picked up for parts. I had hoped to use bits from the Frontier 55 recoil on the 2-10 also. Unfortunately, the starter drum and recoil housing turned out to be a real mess of the finest white rust! I salvaged the starter ratchet and brass bush so may yet use those. Danarm bits seem to be in as short supply as Mac bits....
 

Al Smith

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That's a similar design to one sitting in my garage belonging to my son in Louisville . I'm going to haul it down to him next weekend .I have one 5Kw with the Homelite name on it .Who actually made them I haven't a clue .
 
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