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Tank vents and leaking carb gaskets

72thing

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I recently have run into a problem that I haven't seen before. I'll explain in far too many details in the best way my brain can ramble on.

Both my 440 and my Ms250 are leaking fuel all over and under the carb out onto the tank and handle, making a nasty mess. It started recently, perhaps due to warmer weather, although I've never had any sort of problem before. I thought it was leaking from the fuel line where it connects to carb inlet, so I replaced the fuel line on both saws. (440 had original line that was still in good shape, but was getting soft near the carb, so I replaced with new green OEM line. 250 had aftermarket line, replaced it with new OEM line.)

When I picked up the 250 yesterday, it had been in partial sunlight and there was a giant mess all over the carb and down the handle again. I think the only place it can leak and wet the entire carb is the top gasket at the metering diphragm. I rebuilt the carb a few yrs ago with fresh gaskets/diphragms, and the gaskets still look perfectly fine. This has the newer style black tank vent with several holes in top, only vents into tank, but won't let pressure out. Vent is the same on the 440 and both vents are working properly.
I still have to pressure test 250 carb to verify, but I think its leaking from that metering gasket on top side.
I'm not sure if its as simple as another rebuild kit...
The reason I ask is because I did have time to pressure test the 440 carb (line filled with fuel and metering cover/diphragm/gasket removed, fuel on top of needle) and it was leaking bubbles through the pump side gasket at around 10-12 psi.; needle was holding fine up to Mityvac being maxed out, ~30 psi. And this is with new gaskets, even though the old ones looked fine. I did torque the carb screws more (especially the single screw for the pump side) and it seems not to leak/bubble as bad. But dang, its not like they were loose...Stupid question: anybody ever had to put thin coating of gasket dressing or sealant on carb gaskets?

It seems the slightest amount of sunlight allows tank to build pressure in either saw, so I really wish the vent worked both ways. Is making a new tank vent just a bandaid to the leaking gaskets? I've already studied it and figured out a workaround for both saws if'n I can't get the leak remedied.

Who else has run into this issue? Every saw I have marks its territory with bar oil, which doesn't bother me. But I can't stand the fuel leaks. This still sounds dumb in my head, as it's a seemingly simple problem, but its aggravating me, so throwing it to ya'll for proper diagnosis/ridicule :cursing2:

Thanks
 

Duane(Pa)

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May also have something to do with the vapor pressure of this new sh1t gas they are selling us? Plastic gas cans blow up like ballons if they are tight and there is any kind of temperature differential. The fuel in my tractor boils when I am mowing in the summertime. This sort of thing is a modern problem and I think it's fuel chemistry. Old metal saws would occasionally boil fuel in long arduous cuts, now days happens all the time...
 

72thing

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I'm not sure about the fuel, I use non-ethanol for what its worth...

I was looking at one of my older 1 gal Blitz fuel containers yesterday and it was swole up like roadkill. But I like that it doesn't vent as I feel like the gas stays fresher.

I'm gonna do some more testing when i have time, but just didn't expect to see that the carb gaskets were so porous. Maybe i just need to get some new gaskets or maybe the carb body or cover isn't as flat as it needs and they weren't compressing evenly.

Whatever it is, I bet I'll overthink it, lol.
 

hseII

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I'm not sure about the fuel, I use non-ethanol for what its worth...

I was looking at one of my older 1 gal Blitz fuel containers yesterday and it was swole up like roadkill. But I like that it doesn't vent as I feel like the gas stays fresher.

I'm gonna do some more testing when i have time, but just didn't expect to see that the carb gaskets were so porous. Maybe i just need to get some new gaskets or maybe the carb body or cover isn't as flat as it needs and they weren't compressing evenly.

Whatever it is, I bet I'll overthink it, lol.

I didn’t read the Willvel: what about the tank vent?
 

Adirondackstihl

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I had a brand new 461R leaking from the H & L screws. Replaced under warranty and the replacement carb did the same thing.
Tank is building pressure with the rise in air temperatures. I just chalked it up to what it was.
 

longleaf

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I had a brand new 461R leaking from the H & L screws. Replaced under warranty and the replacement carb did the same thing.
Tank is building pressure with the rise in air temperatures. I just chalked it up to what it was.
Did yours leak from the main jet or carb gaskets
 

longleaf

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I had a brand new 461R leaking from the H & L screws. Replaced under warranty and the replacement carb did the same thing.
Tank is building pressure with the rise in air temperatures. I just chalked it up to what it was.
Did yours leak from the main jet or carb gaskets
 

RI Chevy

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I had the same experience with a MS460. Saw was in sun for a bit. When I used the saw, it had pressure built up in tank and caused the saw to run like it was either starving for fuel or flooding. I looked at tank vent and it was bubbling out fuel. Wouldn't run right until I replaced the tank vent. Then all was good. Weird issue.
 

Dub11

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Hooskies don't have this problem. Operators too busy looking for screws that fell out. LMAO [emoji23]

If they are looking for screws then wouldn't there be a saw full of gas leaking?
 

RI Chevy

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Maybe they are looking for square wood to cut? [emoji23]
 

72thing

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Genuine Walbro and Zama Chinese carb kits. All surfaces were clean with no old gasket material. I don't believe its leaking from the H or L screws. After pressure testing the carb, I went back and tightened the s-word out of the screws and tested again with the mityvac. Much better than before.

I also made up a rather simple but effective tank vent for the 440 today that's essentially open to the atmosphere. I drilled a hole through a tapered rubber "cork" stopper and forced the stopper into the vent hole. Then used a small brass fitting to attach to a line that runs up under the top cover with a screw in the end of the line. Stihl used the same basic setup on a lot of older saws--a line with a screw in it. Except they used a "vent insert" 1120 358 8105.

Ran a tank thru it today (tank #20 since being hybridized) and it ran strong, no leaks from vent or carb. I ran saw in all positions. I fueled it up and will let it sit in the shop, where it should get plenty warm. We'll see how my redneck tank vent works.
 
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Adirondackstihl

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Genuine Walbro and Zama Chinese carb kits. All surfaces were clean with no old gasket material. I don't believe its leaking from the H or L screws. After pressure testing the carb, I went back and tightened the s-word out of the screws and texted again. Much better than before.
I also made up a rather crude but effective tank vent for the 440 today that's essentially open to the atmosphere. No more pressurized tank and hopefully no more leaks. I drilled a hole through a tapered rubber "cork" stopper and forced the stopper into the vent hole. It's in there real tight. Then used a small brass fitting to run a line up under the top to c
Tank vents aren’t designed to allow pressure to escape......you know that right?
 
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