Sugar Shack
- Thread starter kingOFgEEEks
- Start date
Jimmy in NC
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 57
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2015
- Messages
- 1,994
- Reaction score
- 8,010
- Location
- North Carolina
Nailed them with 12d and then 1/2" bolts every 24"
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Jimmy in NC
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 57
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2015
- Messages
- 1,994
- Reaction score
- 8,010
- Location
- North Carolina
Looking back I should have glued too... but I do not think they are moving.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
kingOFgEEEks
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 843
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2016
- Messages
- 1,723
- Reaction score
- 7,447
- Location
- Tioga County, PA
That looks pretty stout.
Jimmy in NC
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 57
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2015
- Messages
- 1,994
- Reaction score
- 8,010
- Location
- North Carolina
kingOFgEEEks
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 843
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2016
- Messages
- 1,723
- Reaction score
- 7,447
- Location
- Tioga County, PA
If only I had a steel plate, I could frame a floor in. At this time, my entire sugar shack budget is $0.00. If I buy a couple PT 6x6 or round posts, it's not the end of the world.
Jimmy in NC
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 57
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2015
- Messages
- 1,994
- Reaction score
- 8,010
- Location
- North Carolina
I understand. This project was on hold for 5 months sorting price VS strength. I stumbled into 74 16' 2x6 treated and 15 4x4x8' treated for free. All new.
Floor system, ramp, and block piers less than $200 out of pocket into it. I got very lucky.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Jimmy in NC
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 57
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2015
- Messages
- 1,994
- Reaction score
- 8,010
- Location
- North Carolina
Yep. When you have tons of 2x6.. you use 2x6. The design works for me. Robust and water resistant. If I bring a wet machine in I do not have to worry about the floor moving.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
kingOFgEEEks
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 843
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2016
- Messages
- 1,723
- Reaction score
- 7,447
- Location
- Tioga County, PA
Finished the side wall siding, and put together the first rafter tonight. It's starting to look like something.
kingOFgEEEks
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 843
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2016
- Messages
- 1,723
- Reaction score
- 7,447
- Location
- Tioga County, PA
No pics, but I cut and nailed up the remaining rafters last night.
I got my hands on a couple long PT fence posts that are about 6" at the small end, and about 8" at the big end. I think I will make up a little jig tonight, and freehand mill them to make them 6" thick the whole length, and use them as skids for the base.
I got my hands on a couple long PT fence posts that are about 6" at the small end, and about 8" at the big end. I think I will make up a little jig tonight, and freehand mill them to make them 6" thick the whole length, and use them as skids for the base.
kingOFgEEEks
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 843
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2016
- Messages
- 1,723
- Reaction score
- 7,447
- Location
- Tioga County, PA
I set up my freehand milling jig tonight:
There wasn't much to take off of the first one, so the saw kept jumping out of the kerf. This was brand new LGX out of the box on my 5100s:
There was more meat on post #2:
Victory!
Now I need some helpers to get it torn down and put back together outside on these runners (flat side up).
There wasn't much to take off of the first one, so the saw kept jumping out of the kerf. This was brand new LGX out of the box on my 5100s:
There was more meat on post #2:
Victory!
Now I need some helpers to get it torn down and put back together outside on these runners (flat side up).
kingOFgEEEks
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 843
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2016
- Messages
- 1,723
- Reaction score
- 7,447
- Location
- Tioga County, PA
Finally got it down and moved outside last Saturday. Today I got the 2 end rafters on, and the purlins in place. I'll stand up the middle rafters next.
kingOFgEEEks
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 843
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2016
- Messages
- 1,723
- Reaction score
- 7,447
- Location
- Tioga County, PA
Tin going up!
kingOFgEEEks
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 843
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2016
- Messages
- 1,723
- Reaction score
- 7,447
- Location
- Tioga County, PA
Slow but sure. I'm off work till New Years, so hopefully I can finish the roof and end walls in the next few days.
kingOFgEEEks
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 843
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2016
- Messages
- 1,723
- Reaction score
- 7,447
- Location
- Tioga County, PA
Built the cupola to go up on the roof. That means I can put it up and then keep going with the tin.
Also started on Mrs. Geek's Christmas present. She wants to hang them on the wall somewhere. I just cut things and screw them together...
Also started on Mrs. Geek's Christmas present. She wants to hang them on the wall somewhere. I just cut things and screw them together...
usmcbuckwild
Buck
- Local time
- 5:34 AM
- User ID
- 4866
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2017
- Messages
- 3,771
- Reaction score
- 23,964
- Location
- NW CT
As others have said just ensure you provide support framing to use a tow assembly. My personal favorite is 3/4” machine eyes installed in the skids about 24” back from the end. This ensures transference of energy isn’t applied to fasteners (which can result in failure and leaving a skid on the ground if it catches a root or rock). Make an even legged bridle from chain or steel cable with an eye large enough to fit over a tow hitch ball. I have seen people make a solid tow yoke for going up and down hills and ensure the shack won’t slide into the tow vehicle. Please don’t forget to bevel both ends of the skids, no need to make unnecessary ruts and excessive strain by dragging a flat face across the ground.
Frame the floor as you normally would over the 2 skids with a layer of HEAVY plastic over the top of it. Lay down 1/2” t@g plywood or shiplap boards, 1/2” fire rated sheetrock with a single heavy spackle of the joints. Then lay fire brick (3/4” is the minimum thickness if I remember correctly, come in 12”x12” tile) over the top of the sheetrock using a small amount of fire retardant caulking under to secure them to sheetrock. Once all bricks are in caulk all the joints with the same fire retardant caulking (it also comes in a 1 gallon bucket that can be applied just like spackle).
Sounds like alot of extra work and cost, but it will nulify any inspectors “heat transfer” concerns. Yes it adds weight, but will also provide strength and prevent heat transfer through the floor. What can I say; I like to overbuild everything.
Frame the floor as you normally would over the 2 skids with a layer of HEAVY plastic over the top of it. Lay down 1/2” t@g plywood or shiplap boards, 1/2” fire rated sheetrock with a single heavy spackle of the joints. Then lay fire brick (3/4” is the minimum thickness if I remember correctly, come in 12”x12” tile) over the top of the sheetrock using a small amount of fire retardant caulking under to secure them to sheetrock. Once all bricks are in caulk all the joints with the same fire retardant caulking (it also comes in a 1 gallon bucket that can be applied just like spackle).
Sounds like alot of extra work and cost, but it will nulify any inspectors “heat transfer” concerns. Yes it adds weight, but will also provide strength and prevent heat transfer through the floor. What can I say; I like to overbuild everything.
