Stihl MS361 Build

[RedGas]

Thank you, sir! I guess I'll go with the Farmertec wrist pin.

One more question (for now -- I'll probably drive you all crazy with questions before I'm done):

I have two different gasket sealers:
- Hylomar Blue
- Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant

The Permatex product is supposedly good for a continuous temperature up to 400°F. Not sure about the Hylomar Blue as far as temperature goes.

Will these cover all my gasket-sealing needs to build a 361?
Which one would you use to seal the case halves?
Which one for the cylinder-to-case gasket (assuming I use one)?

Thanks again, and sorry for the beginner questions.

 

[Mastermind]

Thank you, sir! I guess I'll go with the Farmertec wrist pin.

One more question (for now -- I'll probably drive you all crazy with questions before I'm done):

I have two different gasket sealers:
- Hylomar Blue
- Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant

The Permatex product is supposedly good for a continuous temperature up to 400°F. Not sure about the Hylomar Blue as far as temperature goes.

Will these cover all my gasket-sealing needs to build a 361?
Which one would you use to seal the case halves?
Which one for the cylinder-to-case gasket (assuming I use one)?

Thanks again, and sorry for the beginner questions.

I don't really know anything about either of those sealants. Personally, I just use Dirko.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

It’s the clips that pop out sometimes and foober or feast the cylinder and Piston with a meal they find hard to chew on

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Look at the temps, that the sealer is safe, the blue is good, for cars and stuff but temp ?, who knows, I’ve used derko, and some rtv black goo all good,..

But as said look at dirko and temps then you should be good to used or not

 

[RedGas]

Thanks, Wonkydonkey. I think Dirko HT says it's good to 482°F and Hylomar Blue says the same thing:

http://hylomar.com/warrick/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Hylomar-Universal-Blue-Issue-8.pdf

I guess I'll use the Hylomar Blue since the Permatex is only good to 400°.

I appreciate the help.

 

[MustangMike]

I have never done a 361, but IMO, the only important stuff to replace is the wrist pin bearing and clips, the other stuff only replace if the AM stuff does not work.

You did not say if you plan on using a gasket or not. I go gasketless on the cylinder and used Permatex 518**, just make sure you properly prep the surfaces (a light sanding followed by Q Tip with Brake Cleaner). I do the case gaskets dry, but also clean the surfaces with Brake Cleaner.

I like the 518 because the excess can wash away, only what is between the metal parts hardens. Just don't use it on a clamshell motor.

I also highly recommend replacing the starter rope with Stihl Elastostart rope + handle, and I lube the starters and the control levers with Fluid Film (before I even move them).

Also, the bearings often come with grit in them. Before I even turn them I spray them heavily with WD 40 and tilt them with the seal side up to get any debris to float out (ditto the lower rod bearing). I've assembled and ran (even milled with) numerous 660s and 440s w/o a bearing failure (except for a AM piston pin bearing).

Good luck with your build, go slow + careful, fit and finish will not be like OEM, and the specific problems will vary from saw to saw. Chain adjusters are frequently problematic.

 

[RedGas]

Wow, this is great, helpful information. Thank you MustangMike.

 

[Onan18]

Thank you, sir! I guess I'll go with the Farmertec wrist pin.

One more question (for now -- I'll probably drive you all crazy with questions before I'm done):

I have two different gasket sealers:
- Hylomar Blue
- Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant

The Permatex product is supposedly good for a continuous temperature up to 400°F. Not sure about the Hylomar Blue as far as temperature goes.

Will these cover all my gasket-sealing needs to build a 361?
Which one would you use to seal the case halves?
Which one for the cylinder-to-case gasket (assuming I use one)?

Thanks again, and sorry for the beginner questions.

I use HondaBond HT, good to 600°F and completely fuel and oil resistant. If it ever has to come back apart though...

 

[nohoff]

My experience with the blue hylomar is, that it wont harden at all.
I use hylomar in combination with paper gaskets on rough surfaces.
I use Hylomar on the case halfes together with the paper gasket and no sealant on the cylinder gasket or without a gasket i ll prefer DirkoHT.

 

[Bigmac]

Thank you, sir! I guess I'll go with the Farmertec wrist pin.

One more question (for now -- I'll probably drive you all crazy with questions before I'm done):

I have two different gasket sealers:
- Hylomar Blue
- Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant

The Permatex product is supposedly good for a continuous temperature up to 400°F. Not sure about the Hylomar Blue as far as temperature goes.

Will these cover all my gasket-sealing needs to build a 361?
Which one would you use to seal the case halves?
Which one for the cylinder-to-case gasket (assuming I use one)?

Thanks again, and sorry for the beginner questions.

You need to make sure your sealant is fuel safe, Motoseal, dirko, hondabond, some yamabond,and many others are good to use, prep is key along with the correct sealant

 

[RedGas]

Thank you, fellas. Wow, 600° you can really cook that Hondabond HT.

 

[Gary Courtney]

Thanks, Wonkydonkey. I think Dirko HT says it's good to 482°F and Hylomar Blue says the same thing:

http://hylomar.com/warrick/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Hylomar-Universal-Blue-Issue-8.pdf

I guess I'll use the Hylomar Blue since the Permatex is only good to 400°.

I appreciate the help.

I have used hylomar on many applications from motors to flanges. It has never failed! If it is good enough for Rolls-Royce aviation applications,Well chainsaws are a given !

 

[huskyboy]

Not a fan of 518 after seeing the excess sealant harden inside the motor. If I have excess I want it to be a non hardening sealant like 1184, dirko, yamabond, hondabond, motoseal, ect. (all kind of similar). That way if it does come loose it won’t hurt the motor. The two I have experience with (1184/dirko) seem to seal better than 518 too. Just imo.

 

[MustangMike]

It has always worked well for me, I use it all the time.

 

[Gary Courtney]

Not a fan of 518 after seeing the excess sealant harden inside the motor. If I have excess I want it to be a non hardening sealant like 1184, dirko, yamabond, hondabond, motoseal, ect. (all kind of similar). That way if it does come loose it won’t hurt the motor. The two I have experience with (1184/dirko) seem to seal better than 518 too. Just imo.

I also trust Dirko. I have used hylomar on gasket delete and have taken cylinder off many times and reinstalled cylinder on first application of hylomar, never a leak.

 

[drf256]

I’ve found the easiest and fastest way to prevent case gasket leaks is to put on exam gloves, put a dab of Dirko on my finger, and rub it onto both sides of the case gasket with both hands. It gives me a very thin layer that doesn’t spread out everywhere and is much faster than applying to both sides of the cases.

518 isn’t supposed to harden in the presence of air. I use it on jug bases as any excess isn’t supposed to harden inside and possibly impede air flow. Dirko is much easier to clean off with disassembly for sure.

I have an issue with Dirko hardening in the tube if it’s not used quick enough. It’s becomes a total pita.