Stihl 241c stalls while idling

[GlocknStihl]

I'm interested in this obviously. I'm the one that talked him into the 241 and helped him get the sweet deal. I'm almost feel guilty now because my 241 has been flawless and hes having trouble.

 

[GlocknStihl]

Solenoid.

see if he can get the new green one. 0000 120 5111 works in multiple carbs. otherwise may have to use the original black one 0000 120 5110 which is super delicate. White one is good but may or may not work in your carb 0000 120 5104.

My Stihl Instructor told me the green ones can be hard to get right now. As they go to the manufacturing lines first, warranty work second, and spare parts last. I plan to snag one for my 241 as a spare ASAP.

 

[sawmikaze]

Solenoid.

see if he can get the new green one. 0000 120 5111 works in multiple carbs. otherwise may have to use the original black one 0000 120 5110 which is super delicate. White one is good but may or may not work in your carb 0000 120 5104.

Hey cutie..that part number for the green one is invalid for me.

 

[Kenskip1]

Rumat, Well have you heard anything from your dealer regarding your saw? It has now been three weeks. I would have thought that it would have been repaired buy now.Ken

 

[FullChisel]

Can anyone tell me the differences in the three solenoids?

I see where they seem to be interchangeable in the 441's and 661's, but then have been told by my dealer the newer solenoids (5104 & 5111) do not fit the 241 saws ? If ALL three sized saws came stock with the black 5110's in them, doesn't it stand to reason they would be interchangeable?..... unless the new ones have a longer stroke and are capable of pushing more gas for a bigger saw?

I have been chasing this exact same stalling and sputtering issue coming off idle for the whole Summer.

My saw runs great, once you can get it to come up off of and get it above idle.

 

[RI Chevy]

@Redbull661

 

[Kenskip1]

Well, it now has been 4 weeks.I guess that your saw is still at the dealer.

 

[rumatt]

Update: the dealer had my saw for a full month. I contacted them asking for an update, and they said "Oh, sorry. We'll work on it today"

Got a call an hour later saying it was "Replaced bad gas, fuel filter, and tuned carb". The gas wasn't bad. It was from a Stihl pre-mix can.

I used the saw today and it still stalls once hot. Hrmph. It starts up right away though.

 

[RI Chevy]

Did you tell them it was Stihl premixed fuel? That to me would be totally unacceptable.

 

[rumatt]

I did. And he said, "Then maybe something fell in there when you filled it. Check your gas can".

I was hoping the "reprogrammed carb" part might have had a shot at working, but I guess not.

I'm debating whether to take it back to them to make a point, or take it somewhere else....

 

[RI Chevy]

Maybe call Stihl and ask to speak to District Rep? That is bogus!

 

[RI Chevy]

Give him some guidance Julian. What's the proper thing to do at this point?

 

[rumatt]

I don't mind trying another dealer before raising hell with Stihl. See if the new place can earn my business.

 

[GlocknStihl]

See once again, feel like its my fault. I got Matt the deal here in Virginia, recommended the 241, and bam, it all went sideways.

 

[Kenskip1]

Rumatt, Here is what I would do.Have the name and phone number of the place that you dropped it off. Get the owners name.The date you dropped it off.You will need all the details. If you call Stihl, they will ask you for this information. If you do not have it they will shy away.Go back to the place that supposedly did the work.Be polite but firm. Tell them that you are going to contact the area sales representative and that you are going to use there name. This should get the hair on the back of their neck to stand up.If you manage to contact Stihl,explain the symptoms, the temperature the saw started acting up.The mix that was used, and have the date handy.Tell the owner that you are going to make a post to his facebook page explaining how satisfied you are.If you just happen to wake this dealer up he may take the saw and fix it properly.Ask questions. Did they do a compression check? How much voltage was the coil producing.Anyway this should get you some action one way or the other.
Remember sir, "The Wheel That Makes The Most Noise gets The Grease" Best of luck, Ken

 

[Duane(Pa)]

You might start the conversation with....This happens when it's hot. If you only made a few test cuts, or ran it in the shop without cutting, you didn't see the problem I have been having...yadda, yadda

 

[RI Chevy]

Always catch more bees with honey rather than vinegar. [emoji106]

 

[FullChisel]

Well I have been working with my dealer and we are making some headway....finally. My issues always start as the temperature starts getting higher above about 85 degrees and especially at higher elevations. Hard to get started, usually 8-10 pulls, dies constantly while waiting for it to acclimate, and also dies upon throttle chop. Sometimes will just stumble and die while in the middle of a cut too. It works fine below about seven thousand feet in elevation even when hot out, but add in some elevation and all bets are off.

Saw is in its third season and has about 100 hours on it, good compression, well taken care of.

To my dealers credit they are working with me as they also want to know what is going on. I been working on saws, lawnmowers, small engines, and especially motorcycles for 50 years and am real good at problem solving, or at least was till I got started on this issue!
.
First I replaced the solenoid, and went through the carb, no change, then my dealer took it went through the carb, replaced the solenoid as well as the diaphragm, and talked me into using the $tihl premix. STILL no change.

Next replaced the control unit (coil) and that made it start a little better but still hard to accelerate and stumbles and dies frequently.

Put the original coil back in and installed a brand new carb. Now it starts up with one or two pulls, idles good and long enough to acclimate with no issues, but is still stumbling a little upon acceleration and dying about 30% of the time when the throttle is released.

Now thinking it might possibly be a combination of control unit AND carb? Could I be THAT lucky?

STILL do not understand what could be going wrong in the carb as have had it apart and under a microscope a couple times checking everything out and all looks good.

I would like to know if anybody has ever seen schematics on one of these carbs or can answer a question? At the bottom of the hole where the solenoid fits in there are two small holes, one goes to a little piece pressed into the throat of the carb that I believe is probably a one way valve, possibly a ball check type. The other little hole is in a small round piece of brass that is pressed into the casting at the bottom of the hole. It has a real small angle chamfer around the top of the hole, but I cannot figure out where that little hole leads. Any ideas?

Now going to put the new control unit back on as well as leave the new carb on it and see what happens next time I head to the hills.

 

[DND 9000]

As far as I know, one of these fuel transition holes is for idle and part throttle, and the other for full throttle.

 

[FullChisel]

That makes sense. I imagine the full throttle port is the one with the check valve due mostly to the size and location, but I am trying to locate where the small one with the brass plug feeds into the throat of the carb to be certain it has no obstructions. Usually you can squirt a little WD 40 through a hole or port in a carb or valve body to determine where it leads, but I just cannot seem to locate where that tiny hole feeds in.

I even shortened and cut the nose down on a WD 40 straw so it would fit into the hole better but as yet have not determined where that hole leads.

Another thing I am starting to wonder about after looking at the solenoids under a microscope is how the front of the solenoid that sits the deepest into the hole has a little tiny thin rib or boss that sticks out. It looks like it gets squished over as it fits down into that bore. Since it is a hard plastic, if the solenoid does not get installed real straight and square to the bore it might possibly cause a little leak during the pump or injection stroke.

It is real hard to see it even under a microscope, but that rib on the first one I replaced had a few small scratches and is bent over real slightly in one area. This could allow a little fuel to feed back into the area that fuel enters the solenoid valve instead of getting shoved into the throat of the carb? Seems maybe another o-ring might ne in order out near the forward end of that solenoid?