Stihl 241c stalls while idling

[rumatt]

I have a relatively new 241cm with about 8-10 tanks through it.

2 days ago it stalled while using it (shortly after starting) and I couldn't get it running again. It would sputter for 3-4 rotations of the engine then die.

My neighbor managed to get it started by flooring the gas while starting it (without applying the choke). Once running it stopped and restarted fine. I did the reset procedure (90 on start position, stop, start, 60+ seconds in run position, stop, start, 5 cuts)

Since then it's been starting and running fine. But it stalls while idling now. In 15 minutes of using it, it might stall 4-5 times.. Always while idling.

Any ideas? I can take it to a dealer, but I'd rather fix it myself if there's something simple. I don't like dealers touching my stuff.. And I didn't buy from them so I'm guessing I'll get a grumpy attitude.

 

[rumatt]

Forgot to mention. Gas is 89 octain, about 4 weeks old and had fuel saver put in when purchased. I'm using the same gas in my 261c and it runs fine.

 

[paragonbuilder]

It’s not the gas. Can’t tune much on the electronic carb units. Gotta be coil/ecu or carb.
@treemonkey
@cobby

 

[rumatt]

The answer is going to be "take it to the dealer", isn't it.

 

[Kenskip1]

Could this be a tank vent issue? How about a vapor lock?I suspect that the gas is being heated to an very hot point and the saw is not happy with this.There for shutting down.If not head to your dealer and have your checkbook ready. This is why I do not like the newer "electronic" fuel systems.

 

[AlfA01]

Happy 4th.

Did you cover all the basics? Clean air filter? Check sparkplug for gap, serviceability, properly torqued and plugwire on tight? Does this version have a decomp? If so, is it resetting full closed after the saw is running? If it is a decomp, I'd pull the valve and check that the pin is sealing against the flange when closed and no debris or carbon buildup are present.

Check your impulse, fuel lines and in-tank fuel filter. Many things to look at before heading in to the dealer. Cover the basics and you might be able to save some money by being able to tell him what you've checked already.

 

[rumatt]

I suspect that the gas is being heated to an very hot point and the saw is not happy with this.There for shutting down.

It was also 90+ degrees outside, and it happens only after the saw gets warmed up... So heat makes sense.

 

[rumatt]

Happy 4th.

Thanks! I'll try to check the things you mentioned.. Although got some I might just give up and take it in.

It's under warranty so it's not a money issue. I'm just anticipating several trips and "could not reproduce".

 

[DND 9000]

You say it stalls often at idle. That is typically for a leaking solenoid valve.

If any of the following issues are experienced:

– engine speed drops under load – low power,
– maximum speed does not reach target value,
– engine dies at idle,

the M-Tronic solenoid valve may not be sealing properly and may need to be replaced.

Before replacing the solenoid valve, please check for other faults which could cause similar running complaints.

Go to your dealer and let him do a leakage test for the solenoid valve. If the valve is leaking it could be identified by the test.

 

[chipper1]

Welcome to OPE Matt.
I'm not a fan of most dealers, but being a new saw I probably would give it a visual and pull the plug to inspect it just so I knew what was going on, then take it to the dealer. It will be a good test of that dealer and how much I would support them in the future, you work with me, I'll work with you. Yes the saw was bought at another location, but there are many reasons for that happening and a dealer network is supposed to be there to support everyones customers and not just the ones who shop at your stores, if not what's the point of advertising that they are the largest dealer network(other than sales lol).
I hope you get it fixed quick, these are great saws and I've only had an issue with the ones I've owned once, it was a hot start issue, oh the irony lol.
Be sure to respond to the thread when you get it figured out as I'm sure your not the only one to have a problem with one of these, and many folks will be reading this in the future.
Brett

 

[CR888]

Being so new take it to dealer and let the warranty take care or it. But B4 you do make sure the sprark arrestor screen is not chocked up with carbon.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

I would definitely use the warranty if it is still available.

 

[RI Chevy]

My 261cm was doing the same thing the other day. I ran it, it got warm, I put saw down and it sat in sun for a while. It was about 98 degrees. When I went to start it, nothing. It ran on choke. The gas was bubbling inside the tank. I eventually got it cleared out and it ran fine afterwards.
I would guess maybe a bad solenoid.
Have dealer hook it up to computer and see what's up.

 

[DND 9000]

The computer will show nothing, because only the electrical function (switching) is tested. Ok, maybe the fuel values are out of range, but that`s it what the computer shows. The computer can`t identify a leaking valve. Let the dealer do the leakage test, that will show if it`s bad or not.

It`s also possible that nothing is wrong and that it was only because of the high temperature. Test it again when it is cooler.

 

[RI Chevy]

Good points.

 

[rumatt]

I'm definitely going to take it in. I just won't be able to get to it for a week or two.

Once I do I'll report back here. Thanks folks.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I would try cracking the fuel cap when it is acting up. The modern fuel vent will not let any pressure out because of EPA emmisions regulations. Most fuel jugs blow up like a balloon in sunlight/hot weather. That kind of pressure trapped in the tank could play hell with the tiny needle & seat in the carburetor. Just a suggestion, do it slowly so you don't get a gas bath. Give it a try unless the heat wave ends, and things get back to normal.

 

[rumatt]

I used the saw again yesterday for the first time since the original post. It was 76 degrees out and the stalling behavior was the same. So off to the dealer it goes.

There was no stalling for the first 20 mins or so, but then once it started it was fairly consistent. It ran fine while limbing, but then when I would stop for 30 seconds to setup the next branch, it had about a 1/3 chance of stalling.

After stalling I started it every time if I used following routine - 1st pull nothing happens. 2nd pull it sputtered and I hit the gas as fast as possible after the pull to keep it running. No gas = stall.

Oh and I noticed that cracked my saw shell. Not sure how that happened, but I bet it was when a friend tried to start it and the handle slipped and snapped back.

 

[chipper1]

I used the saw again yesterday for the first time since the original post. It was 76 degrees out and the stalling behavior was the same. So off to the dealer it goes.

There was no stalling for the first 20 mins or so, but then once it started it was fairly consistent. It ran fine while limbing, but then when I would stop for 30 seconds to setup the next branch, it had about a 1/3 chance of stalling.

After stalling I started it every time if I used following routine - 1st pull nothing happens. 2nd pull it sputtered and I hit the gas as fast as possible after the pull to keep it running. No gas = stall.

Oh and I noticed that cracked my saw shell. Not sure how that happened, but I bet it was when a friend tried to start it and the handle slipped and snapped back.


View attachment 133912

Bummer it's still not running right.
I wouldn't waste any time getting it to the dealer myself.
Keep us informed Matt.

 

[Wood Doctor]

This sounds almost identical to the problems one of my customers had with an MS 661C M-Tronic. I told him I thought the ignition module was bad. The dealer replaced it and after that, it ran fine.

Note the complexity of the ignition modules and circuitry on all of these M-Tronic saws. They give me the creeps, but it appears lots of buyers love the closed architecture.