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Stihl 064 help

Discussion in 'Chainsaws' started by RedFir Down, Apr 13, 2018.

  1. RedFir Down

    RedFir Down Well-Known OPE Member

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    The first question I have is about the tank vent. The saw had a make shift vent when I got it so I looked up the IPL for the saw and order what it called for. Needless to say it is wrong. What style of vent do I actually need?

    Next is the on/off/choke lever. With the lever all the down it does not engage the high idle and when you move it one click up it binds and will not move unless you hold the throttle wide open. The lever has quite a bit of play in the tank housing. So I'm not sure if its the lever, spring or a warn part under the trigger cover. What are your thoughts?

    Also I ordered a OEM dual port cover for the muffler and noticed a gap on the bottom between the muffler and the cover. What is going on here?

    Thanks for the help.
    I'll post pictures in a minute.
     
  2. RedFir Down

    RedFir Down Well-Known OPE Member

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    0413182111.jpeg 0413182114.jpeg

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  3. RedFir Down

    RedFir Down Well-Known OPE Member

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    In case your wondering about the oil coming out of the muffler... I'm pretty sure the case gasket is leaking bar oil into the crank case, I haven't pressure/vac tested the saw yet.
    You can say this has been "one of those saws"!:BangHead::(
     
  4. treesmith

    treesmith Tree Hugger/Cutterer

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    That vent hole looks like a new shape black clip in type vent hole 20180414_135240.jpg

    Heres mine, old old tank with same vent, hole is different
     
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  5. treesmith

    treesmith Tree Hugger/Cutterer

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    Tried one of these? the one without the 90° kink
     

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  6. RedFir Down

    RedFir Down Well-Known OPE Member

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    Makes sense, thanks Andy!
    Now I'm wondering if this is a 064 tank.
     
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  7. RedFir Down

    RedFir Down Well-Known OPE Member

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    I have not tried a vent like that. That look like the style they use on the 290 and such.
     
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  8. treesmith

    treesmith Tree Hugger/Cutterer

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    Thats the one, 660s have them in that spot
     
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  9. huskihl

    huskihl Sausage Fingers Forever

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    You have an 064 muffler with an 066 cover, or vise versa. Can't remember which. I had one like that and slightly bent the lower lip up until it sealed up better.

    I've had the master control lever do this same thing on these models. Someone here created a shim that fixed the problem. Maybe @Wood Doctor ?
     
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  10. jacob j.

    jacob j. Jon1212 Approved!

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    On the muffler, you have the early muffler with the flat bottom. Those were only used for about a year, before Stihl found out that they kept so much heat by the crankcase gasket that it was burning the gasket out.
    You can switch to the later style (066/660) muffler but you'll probably need the spacer - 1122 145 1200

    [​IMG]
     
  11. jacob j.

    jacob j. Jon1212 Approved!

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    On the vent, I think the later style vent (1122 350 5851) is the one you need. I think you have an 066 style tank.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Wood Doctor

    Wood Doctor Edwin

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    Here's the shim I made to work. I made it with hard plastic.

    Stihl 066 Tank Housing.jpg Stihl 066 Switch Rod Shim3.PNG
    Looks like the 064 has different dimensions. Shape the shim as needed.
     
  13. Deets066

    Deets066 AKA Deetsey

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    I've just gotten used to grabbing the throttle when I switch the lever. Once you know it's necessary it becomes habit
     
  14. Wood Doctor

    Wood Doctor Edwin

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    Note that my shim insert is only for the instance in which the fast idle setting does not stay in place when shifting from choke to fast idle. When you shift from choke to fast idle, do not pull the trigger. That disengages the fast idle immediately.

    The reason I made the shim is because on some saws the fast idle would not stay in place under any circumstances, and a cold start became very difficult. The only way guys were starting cold after a choke was to hold the throttle open with a wire loop or with one hand and pull the cord handle with the other one, also known as a PITA. Drop starting was virtually impossible without the wire loop holding the throttle open.
     
  15. RedFir Down

    RedFir Down Well-Known OPE Member

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    Good to know. Thank you. I'm considering just buying a new 066/660 muffler.

    Thanks JJ. Makes sense, Looking the saw over a little more this muffler already burned up the case gasket. It leaks bar oil between the case halves when the saw is up side down. Also I'm almost certain bar oil is getting in the crank case... lots of white smoke. I'm going to pressure/vac test it in a minute.

    Looks like what I need. I see they are NLA but i see what my dealer has. Sometimes I luck out and he has parts like this.

    Thanks for the reply Edwin. This saw has a different style on/off lever (I'll post a picture in a bit). But a shim like what you have might fix this issue, I'll investigate.

    Thanks Deets, If it was my saw I would. It's a good friend of mine that appreciates when things work the way they are suppose to. But he might have to resort to doing it your way. Lol

    Thanks for all the help guys!
     
  16. Deets066

    Deets066 AKA Deetsey

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    All of em that I've ran, 066/064 are that way
     
  17. RedFir Down

    RedFir Down Well-Known OPE Member

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    Also, using a 066/660 muffler and that spacer do I need to use longer screws?
     
  18. RedFir Down

    RedFir Down Well-Known OPE Member

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    Well that kind of goofy. Apparently the on/off lever for these saws aren't very robust.
     
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  19. BuckthornBonnie

    BuckthornBonnie Super OPE Member

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    I like the 1128 style myself. Not a big fan of 1122 or 1125 master control levers.
     
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  20. RedFir Down

    RedFir Down Well-Known OPE Member

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    Yep it's going to need to be split! Dang it!!
    I was pumping my mity vac as fast as I could and 2 PSI was all the pressure I could build.

    0414181422.jpeg

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