Standard VS Full Skip

[Carhartt]

Had conversation with one of my tree guys last eve. I had no room to argue but just couldn't wrap my head around his thought. He believes the same saw, bar and tree will make a faster cut with skip tooth chain than it will with standard chain. In my head more teeth would remove more chips. I realize the saw has to work a bit harder. Is it because the saw can maintain a higher RPM and make a smoother cut with skip tooth?
I love sharpening his skip tooth chains. 32" and 36"

 

[mdavlee]

I never seen a speed increase up to 32” bars. I never tested with any longer. I run full comp on a 42” bar I used to have

 

[CR888]

Skip could be faster on a small saw that's being taxed hard. It just depends, if you got the powa...more toofes the better. Hard to make concrete rules on this stuff.

 

[Semotony]

Had conversation with one of my tree guys last eve. I had no room to argue but just couldn't wrap my head around his thought. He believes the same saw, bar and tree will make a faster cut with skip tooth chain than it will with standard chain. In my head more teeth would remove more chips. I realize the saw has to work a bit harder. Is it because the saw can maintain a higher RPM and make a smoother cut with skip tooth?
I love sharpening his skip tooth chains. 32" and 36"

I switched from comp ripping chain 2 square chisel skip for milling. Even Oregon, right off the reel, was faster and made bigger chips. After the stock chisels are touched up (gullets) to even up the cutters it ran even better. After 10 or 12 days any difference in the surface between the two was hard to see. I am seen at the yard waste dump milling the stuff to big a diameter for fire wooders. The tree trim guys, 2-3 crews all have stated that they think my stuff is fast thru the 3 foot & wider slabs I remove. Now the Simmington will make improvement I believe.
Part of it may be that there is more room for the chips to not bind in the kerf , lifting the cutters. But I haven't been on that ride to see in person ; just a guess

 

[Skeans1]

The only time I’ve seen a little quicker cuts in the same wood and saw was with semi skip where I can put a larger sprocket on. Normally 32 on down is full comp, 32-42 is semi skip and my 60 I run a full skip.


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[Homemade]

I noticed an improvement from full comp to full skip in 24” length. Both were woodland pro brand. Both were 3/8” pitch. Both were brand new out of the box.

They were on a 288 with an 8 pin rim.

 

[Skeans1]

I noticed an improvement from full comp to full skip in 24” length. Both were woodland pro brand. Both were 3/8” pitch. Both were brand new out of the box.

They were on a 288 with an 8 pin rim.

Round or square? And what type of wood?


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[Homemade]

Both round full chisel. And in soft wood. I think i was cutting box elder on the fence lines. I actually ended up cutting the full comp chain down to 20” it match up with the rest of the fleet and picked up two more in full skip. I wanted semi skip but it wasn’t available at the time I was buying.

http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_sequence.htm

 

[Skeans1]

Both round full chisel. And in soft wood. I think i was cutting box elder on the fence lines. I actually ended up cutting the full comp chain down to 20” it match up with the rest of the fleet and picked up two more in full skip. I wanted semi skip but it wasn’t available at the time I was buying.

http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_sequence.htm

Anything round is slower and doesn’t shear a chip as well it takes more power to cut as fast or as easy. Even out of the box square is let’s say less then desirable for cutting timber, normally a new chain I’ll drop the rakers and give the cutters a grind.


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[Homemade]

Anything round is slower and doesn’t shear a chip as well it takes more power to cut as fast or as easy. Even out of the box square is let’s say less then desirable for cutting timber, normally a new chain I’ll drop the rakers and give the cutters a grind.


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I thought this was a skip vs full comp comparison. Not a round vs square. I know square is faster then round. I don’t have the time it budget to maintain a fleet of square chain.

 

[Skeans1]

I thought this was a skip vs full comp comparison. Not a round vs square. I know square is faster then round. I don’t have the time it budget to maintain a fleet of square chain.

Typically isn’t a skip vs comp a power comparison? Only time I think of skip is because the power isn’t there to pull all the cutters.


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[Homemade]

Typically isn’t a skip vs comp a power comparison? Only time I think of skip is because the power isn’t there to pull all the cutters.


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It has a lot more to do with chip clearance in the cut then power to pull the chain.


Unless you refer to a small $100 box store saw. I’ve seen those with 3/8 low pro in a skip configuration and a 14” bar.

 

[Skeans1]

It has a lot more to do with chip clearance in the cut then power to pull the chain.


Unless you refer to a small $100 box store saw. I’ve seen those with 3/8 low pro in a skip configuration and a 14” bar.

If you have the power the chips aren’t going to bind up in the cut. Take a 32” bar 105 driver chains on a 562, 372, 390 all the same grind same raker heights the 562 will pull a skip and semi with a 7 pin sprocket. The 372 will pull a semi on a 7 pin, a 8 on full skip the difference is the to pull the chain through the wood or the chip out of the cut. A 390 will pull all combos on a 8 difference here is power.


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[Carhartt]

Ahh, Glad to see this isn't crystal clear. Does vertical or horizontal cuts make any bit of difference on chip clearance?

 

[Skeans1]

Ahh, Glad to see this isn't crystal clear. Does vertical or horizontal cuts make any bit of difference on chip clearance?

I would say no, if you think about the chain is still having to pull a chip out of a kerf. Take and bore a hole for a jack or a spring board no matter which position it is you’ll clog if you push it too hard. What it really comes down to is the tooth, raker height, power head, and how lazy you are about sharpening chains. Myself I grind everything I like a smooth fast straight cutting chain that I can let go of and run the throttle well sighting in a tree. Take a 105, 115, 142 driver chain that are full comp or semi skip chain I’ll guarantee I can flip my bar, clean the rails, and swap the chain vs someone filing a full skip plus I’ll have more down a day as well as being less tired at the end of the day.


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[Cat 525]

Seems to me that for 28s and up that skip is as fast as full comp. I really like the filing time!

 

[Wolverine]

Tell him we need a video'd demonstration to show his claims! I have to smh when the FB guys brag about how they use full skip on 20" bars, mainly guessing they are too lazy to file full comp.

 

[mdavlee]

I’ve done the tests a few times in different sized wood. Same result every time was full comp or semi skip was right with the full comp. skip is slowest

 

[CR888]

I kinda don't get the "save time filing" argument about skip chain. Maybe its my conditions cutting Aussie hardwoods but at the end of the day the work is fairly distributed in an even fashion between all the cutters on a chain. More cutters generally equates to more work able to be done before sharpening. If I'm going to use skip I prefer semi-skip, quality chain is expensive and why would I want to buy a chain with half the cutters removed for the same price. Full skip, hyper skip, red-neck skip & semi skip are specialty chains only used when needed in the odd situation. There is definitely a place for them but generally for me full comp offers the best value as a work chain. I'll always take more wood cut per tank/per sharpening than a tiny speed difference. If a saw is not cutting acceptably fast you hit the stop button & pick up a larger displacement one & get on with your day, not go grab some silly-skip chain.

 

[huskyboy]

32” and under I like full comp. skip on 36” and up faster to file.