Slant 660 - Late to the party

Hello everyone,

I’m a little late compared to everyone else, but I wanted to try building one of these Chinese kit saws for myself. I don’t expect it to be the same as OEM it quality... I already have a few of those. I just wanted the experience of building one from the ground up.

I just received my box from China day before yesterday. The box was in fair condition, but upon opening I discovered it is missing a few parts. Some other items I ordered are missing as well. I am not happy with the amount of shavings from machining left in the case either. I remember seeing someone else mentioning this in a previous post. With the seals already installed, this is unacceptable.



Obviously they don’t have a quality control department. I ordered straight from Huztl. I contacted them about the missing items and the shavings in the case. Their response was “look in the corner of the box”. I just responded back, we will see how that goes.

In the mean time, I’m going to order a gasket set from HL supply. I need the seals, and the base gasket is one of the items I was missing. Now the waiting game begins...


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Looks like they’re making knock-off Bosch plugs too...



Huztl on left, OEM Bosch on right.


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New Bosch plugs are made in China. The new ones I got from the local auto parts store look just like the one on the left too. Only the older German ones have the green on the insulator.

 

Interesting... I didn’t know the new Bosch’s were blue, or made in China. I still have a hard time believing they’re an original Bosch though.

That green band Bosch plug in the pic is made in Brazil. I’ve had it on the shelf for a few years. Not sure when they switched from Germany.


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I got 2 full boxes recently. One from hlsupply and one from the local parts store. Both were the same with blue writing on the plug and had made in China printed on the box. I haven’t had any from Brazil. Not sure when they switched to China.

 

Hello XD,
I am another guy who was late to the party. Here are a list of parts that you should buy from your local Stihl dealer as they are pretty much guaranteed to be needed (the Chinese ones are *s-word and not worth trying). The total for all of them is only about $40 so IMO well worth saving yourself the aggravation of having them fail and possibly causing major engine damage (Wrist pin bearing, Decomp Valve) or in the case of the shaft and trigger hard/no starting. The gas cap seal ring is just to stop the constant slow leak of fuel....you can also find an oring that will work at a local parts store, I already had...but I figured as long as I was buying the rest of the OEM parts from Stihl I may as well go ahead and pick up the cap seal also

Gas Cap Seal Gasket 0000-359-1220
Wrist Pin Bearing 9512-003-3281
Decompression Valve 1128-020-9400
Switch Shaft 1122-182-0902
Throttle Trigger 1122-180-1500

 

Make sure when you do your assembly make sure to remove any casting flash from ports and to chamfer the edges of all the ports to prevent the rings/piston from catching on the edge. Then take a some brakleen and paper towels and clean the bore of the cylinder till it is absolutely clean, then apply a light coat of 2 stroke oil to the bore and piston skirt.....IMHO Do Not Soak the piston assembly in oil or assembly lube, as all this extra lubrication is not needed and can keep the rings from seating well. After cleaning all the crankcase and crank with brakleen to flush out any crap (there will be in my experience) make sure to apply some oil to the bearings.
Have fun with your build, if you take care in the assembly and check and fix any ill fitting parts and replace the parts in the list you will in most cases have a decent running saw that will work fine for the occasional user.

 

Thanks for the advice. I cleaned up the case halves and crank last night before I put them together. I had to pull the factory seals, because there was massive shavings stuck behind them.



I hope to spend a few hours in the shop tonight. I’ll work on cleaning up the cylinder ports.


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Bottlefed,

I’ve seen some mention of using an OEM wrist pin as well. Did you run the pin that came in the kit successfully?



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I just run an OEM wrist pin bearing, the AM wrist pins are a tad heavier, but don't seem to fail.

 

The farmertec wristpins work fine.
But OEM are better because they weigh less. I would use OEM if you have a used one available, probably not cost effective to buy new though.

 

I was doing another 440 kit today, and luckily I flushed the main bearings well with WD-40, a good size chunk of metal came out. Luckily, they felt smooth after that.

 

Yeah, I popped both the seals out then flushed it with some mixed gas followed by compressed air. They seam to be rolling smooth now. Waiting on new seals now...

I’m not at all trying to disagree with the wrist pin bearing replacement, but is there many known failures of them? We seem to be trusting the other Chinese bearings in there right?


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I used the supplied bearing on my first build, and after about 10 tanks of fuel I noticed increased vibs, so I ripped the saw down. The piston was starting to contact the jug.

The local Stihl store sells them for $10 each, as far as I'm concerned that is cheap insurance. But yes, all the other bearings seem to be doing well. I have not had any other failures.

 

My wristpin bearing failed in my kit saw. The cage cracked. It didn't hurt the saw any though, just made a mess when I changed Pistons.

 

Thanks guys. OEM it is. I’ll call my dealer in the morning.

I just got all the ports in my cylinder cleaned up! It looks pretty good now.

I responded to a post over on AS with some cylinder and piston measurements... after I was told I wouldn’t have the tools to take them. In case anyone here is interested they are,

Piston OD: 2.123” or 53.924mm
Cylinder Bore: 2.126” or 54mm


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The piston dimensions will change from top to bottom. The critical measurement is near the bottom. A worn piston will generally be thinner on the lower intake side. When this happens, the intake port will not seal, and replacing rings will not help.

 

Very good to know. Thanks.

I only measured the piston just above the rings, but I did do it a couple different directions to check for roundness. I checked the cylinder multiple locations and directions from top to bottom. It seemed to be consistent.


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MustangMike,

Are you on the west coast, or just up late? I’m up in Washington State.


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Was just up late. East coast time here.