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Self feeding issues

Toad22t

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I'm having issues with my chain's not self feeding. I'm getting good chips coming through and they are sharp but it seems like I have to push. Any help would be appreciated.
 

CR888

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If depth gauges are set at correct height, then look at inner top-plate angle and increase it which is kinda adding like mentioned above adding hook. That inner top plate will pull the chain into the wood.
 

Wilhelm

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Chain brand plays a big role too.

For me Oregon & Dolmar chisel tooth self feed great, the one Archer loop I have self feeds OK, but I can not make the TriLink loops feed without noticeable pressure.

Also, for me chisel self feeds better than semi chisel, round tooth is the least self feeding.

That been said, what chains are You using?
 

Toad22t

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Chain brand plays a big role too.

For me Oregon & Dolmar chisel tooth self feed great, the one Archer loop I have self feeds OK, but I can not make the TriLink loops feed without noticeable pressure.

Also, for me chisel self feeds better than semi chisel, round tooth is the least self feeding.

That been said, what chains are You using?

I'm running stihl 3/8 rs chain or Oregon chisel.
 

Wilhelm

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I'm running stihl 3/8 rs chain or Oregon chisel.
Are You grinding or filing Your chains?

I have no experience with Stihl chains but Oregon chisel should self feed OK even half way decently sharpened.

Do You possibly have any pictures of Your chain(s) that You have sharpened Yourself - a picture is worth a thousand words and can tell a whole lot.

Chk your depth gauges height. Another thing might be the lack of hook on the cutters. Just a couple thoughts.
+1 on this.
I am guessing one or both of the above.
 

huskihl

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Ok so here is my Oregon 511a setup.View attachment 159376 View attachment 159377

Here is one of my chains!View attachment 159378
Rock the grinder 5 more degrees to 55°, and don't drop the wheel as deep into the gullet. Stop going down once the round part of the wheel is to the corner of the cutter. In other words, try not sharpening the top plate with the side of the wheel.

I use 55° 25° and I tilt the vice 5° or how ever many it is

Works for me, can't hurt to try
 

AVB

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The rakers (depth gauges) should file at .025" below the top of the cutters when a straight edge is placed across them for most chains; although, there are a few that requires .030". Here I use a depth gauge tool for doing this. Several versions on the market some are better than others but mine is a simple plastic version with a .025" tab on it.

Be careful not to over do it as then the chain become grabby as tries to self feed too much.
 

Toad22t

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Rock the grinder 5 more degrees to 55°, and don't drop the wheel as deep into the gullet. Stop going down once the round part of the wheel is to the corner of the cutter. In other words, try not sharpening the top plate with the side of the wheel.

I use 55° 25° and I tilt the vice 5° or how ever many it is

Works for me, can't hurt to try

Thank you Kevin! I'll try that. Have you ever did your rakers on your grinder?
 

Scotty Overkill

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I usually find that if you gotta push the saw, the rakers need lowered.

But too much off the rakers, and you're gonna be cursing that saw for grabbing and stalling the clutch. It's an art, that once mastered, is like riding a bike....

I usually take a tad more than I should off of my rakers on my worksaws, I do that on purpose though.......lol
 

huskihl

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Thank you Kevin! I'll try that. Have you ever did your rakers on your grinder?
Yes sir. I picked up a 1/4" pink wheel, tilt the grinder head 10°, and go to town. Takes 3 minutes on a 72dl chain. It leaves a 10° flat spot on top that you could round over if you wanted. But I don't and can't feel the difference
 

huskihl

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I usually find that if you gotta push the saw, the rakers need lowered.

I usually take a tad more than I should off of my rakers on my worksaws, I do that on purpose though.......lol
I do too. Mostly because I can get 3 or 4 touchups out of the same raker height. I don't enjoy it enough to swipe them every time
 
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