Rivet spinning ?

[dannyupsolate]

I always learn a lot when Philbert is involved. I pick up this stuff at flea market so I need to know what interchanges. Never seem to get all parts with flea market items. Here is what little I learned. Stihl ng7 uses old style oregon parts the short spinner anvils and old style punch. Harbor freight will use new style oregon punch and spinner anvils. tecomec use new style oregon parts. take up handles can be made with a bolt of correct thread drilled out to accept insert take up anvil like woodland pro. if any of this is wrong please help

 

[Philbert]

Buying stuff used can be an adventure.

Philbert

 

[AVB]

Here is question. If I convert my spinner to motor driven what be a max Rpm for the spinner to turn at?

 

[Philbert]

Here is question. If I convert my spinner to motor driven what be a max Rpm for the spinner to turn at?

Good question. Looked up the Oregon and Tecomec electric rivet spinner, and could not find RPMs listed. This video might help. I like the spinner anvils that it uses.

There used to be a larger, foot pedal operated version - looked like a drill press. If somebody has one, RPMs might be on the name plate.

This one, modified by Tree Monkey's Dad, uses a low-speed geared, VSR drill:



Philbert

 

[dannyupsolate]

How fast can you go without splattering the rivet

 

[AVB]

Isn't Google the great equalizer? I found what I was needing. It is up to 1500 rpm max and this came tech that worked at the factory spinning chains. So a low rpm VSR drill will work just got to use hi pressure oil or grease.

Now of course they are using carbide anvils due to volume they do. He even explain how to make a homemade anvils out of tool steel which is beyond most us as takes a little more equipment than most of us have.

 

[dannyupsolate]

It would be cool to figure out a depth stop so all rivets would be equal

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'm happy to report that the Oregon punch 38594 and spinner dies 38597(A) and 38598(B) arrived today and are the correct ones for my no-label (Efco?) breaker/spinner and match the standard replacements for the 24548 and 24549 breaker/spinner set. Yay. Now to mess up a bunch of chains learning how to use the setup correctly..., right after I sort through all the presets and straps that came with the deal.

Thanks again for everyone's help on this.

 

[Philbert]

A spinner / breaker set is really an empowering tool (especially if you are a chain geek).

Aside from letting you make up loops from bulk rolls, they let you repair and re-size loops, and force you to learn nuances between similar looking chains. Makes you popular with your chainsaw friends too!

Glad it worked out.

Philbert

 

[dannyupsolate]

really helps with frustration when you find yourself with 5 18 inch chains and 5 16 inch bars

 

[Philbert]

A few years back one of our groups upgraded from MS250's to MS260's. Both 16" bars, and both .325, .063 chain. But one was 62 DL and the other 67 DL.

Picked a few 'donor loops' and spun 'up' about 30 loops to the larger size. Only cost was for the STIHL pre-sets.

Philbert

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

What I could really use are a bunch of .325 - .058 Husky bars for some 55's I'm rebuilding. Have a bunch of that chain in bulk and don't know how many applications actually use that size.

 

[dannyupsolate]

my pick http://performanceoutdoorequipment....ducts/total-super-bar-t368zr2-16-325-058-66dl

 

[Philbert]

Has anyone seen / tried one of these? Started seeing them on eBay - not any less expensive than some other options, but looks more compact (and maybe more complex?). Curious to hear what users might have to saw about them.

Tecomec Chain Repair Master



Philbert

 

[Fish]

Here is a page out of an old Carlton catalog.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Yep. Looks a lot like the set I bought...., which I ended up figuring was Oregon. Seems the Carlton version is still available too..., albeit down under.

http://coonasawchain.com.au/shop/category/chain-brakers-river-spinners

 

[A100HVA]

I've been spinning rivets with a drill for about 35 years now. it does take a little while to get'er down pat,but it's the cat's meow!
the spinner I am use'in is no longer made,but here's the part numbers for what needs replacement occasionaly.
if you decide to go this route,when breaking chain off the roll and before putting back together turn the chain around before spinning so as not to damage the tail of the cutter.
the white arrow is the bearing that needs replacement when you hear a crack while spinning.


as you can see the broken washer's that need replacement along with the bearing.
these are no longer available from Oregon. the anvils available now are too long to fit this spinner....so just shorten!

the green arrow shows the groove made by bearing not maintained during learning curve. this piece is no longer available from Oregon.
lucky that you can just put a fresh washer on each side of bearing during maintenance!!!.....and your good to go.

one day at Fryeburg fair woodsman's day I got some good "practice" I spun up 13 roll's....never went back

 

[CR888]

I'll get stuff bench mounted tomorrow and give it a shot. Need to take stock of straps and presets and get stuff sorted out. It's a completely unorganized mess right now.

Small divided fishing tackle container is good for this. I still put presets in small zip locks and then in tackle box. Lable bags with sharpie as sizes look similar ie .325/3/8 & it may be a while before you use something so you forget what's what.

 

[AVB]

HFT also has fairly nice 24 compartment box though the hinges are flimsy that I use for electrical terminals. The curved bottoms really help getting small things out.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Good idea. Haven't begun to sort and organize everything in the parts drawer I acquired yet. Less there than I originally thought, but quite a few little bags with numbers on em that I hope will translate into something identifiable from Oregon, Stens, or somebody's system besides HWI. Lots of old and rusty camel hump safety links.

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