Rivet spinning ?

[dannyupsolate]

equiptron on ebay has old style punch and cheap presets 25 for 15 bucks new style punch also

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'll get stuff bench mounted tomorrow and give it a shot. Need to take stock of straps and presets and get stuff sorted out. It's a completely unorganized mess right now.

 

[dannyupsolate]

if you grind rivets thin you can get straps off bad chains. I always grind old rivets saves busting punch.

 

[Philbert]

You may need the calipers to sort out those pre-sets and tie straps too!

Hint: take some 'naked' drive links and tie straps from/for known chains, and use those to help sort your parts.
Test fit the pre-sets in the drive link holes to check diameter and depth (.050, .058, .063?).
Test fit the pre-sets in the tie strap holes to verify pitch and compatibility.

Some pre-sets and tie straps will work with a variety of chain brands, but some are brand specific. There are even different 'sizes' of 1/2" Oregon chains!

After you figure out what is what, place everything in small, zip-lock bags and LABEL THEM! You WILL NOT remember what they are later! (And you do not want to consider the possibilities of knocking over your box once sorted).

Philbert

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

equiptron on ebay has old style punch and cheap presets 25 for 15 bucks new style punch also

Great resource....and free shipping. Cool. Thanks.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

And good stuff as usual, Philbert. Thanks.

 

[dannyupsolate]

use the caliper to get idea of factory width and thickness of mushroom on rivet see if you can match it and still have chain move freely

 

[Chainsaw Addict]

Looks like a nice tool.

These help too when sorting through odd chains:

Oregon 55418
View attachment 41233

Granberg Pitch-N-Gauge

View attachment 41234
Philbert

I just bought my second little Oregon Guage for times I can't find the other one. Very handy.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The correct part number is 556418. And in case you're not quite sure how to use it......

 

[dannyupsolate]

my yellow breaker is all galled up and ruined from owner using bar oil for lube. you may want to check yours

 

[Philbert]

The correct part number is 556418.

Thanks. Fixed it in my original post.

Philbert

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I searched high and low for a 55418 pocket guide and came up empty until I ran across one while searching for breaker and spinner stuff. Gonna order one now that I know how they work.

What is recommended for lube? I used a little 3-in-1 on the spinner and both breakers when I cleaned everything up. They all seem happy.

And after reading a thread elsewhere about mounting options, I think I'll give the portable mounting on a piece of 3/4 ply with a cleat/support underneath (for either clamping onto a bench or in a vise) a try. Just not convinced there will be enough support with the vise setup to get adequate breaking leverage. C-clamped to a bench, probably.

Also heading over to my Husky dealer to compare his Oregon setup to what I have. If the inserts and punches are compatible, I can get them through him in a couple days.

 

[dannyupsolate]

4 oregon 55618 from this guy around 10 bucks http://performanceoutdoorequipment.com/collections/tools?page=3 you may can get more without paying 6 buck shipping again. He was good enough to send me one free with my order.

 

[dannyupsolate]

pull plug on top of breakers mix a little oil and grease together to make runny grease should protect breaker parts

 

[Philbert]

I searched high and low for a 55418 pocket guide and came up empty until I ran across one while searching for breaker and spinner stuff.

I have seen them for less than a dollar to over $6 each. Good add-0n item with larger order to avoid shipping cost.

What is recommended for lube?

I keep a small, plastic, prescription drug bottle with wheel bearing grease and a toothpick next to the spinner. I put a small dab on the end of each rivet - helps keep the tie strap from sliding off, and lubricates the head while spinning.

I just use 3-In-One oil to lubricate the spinner pressure handle, and breaker cylinder, and wheel bearing grease on the spinner thrust bearings (different model than yours - you may not have one).

And after reading a thread elsewhere about mounting options, I think I'll give the portable mounting on a piece of 3/4 ply with a cleat/support underneath (for either clamping onto a bench or in a vise) a try. Just not convinced there will be enough support with the vise setup to get adequate breaking leverage. C-clamped to a bench, probably.

That's what I did!





Philbert

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Yep. I saw your (and Mark Heimann's) approach in the discussion about Bailey's Woodland Pro offering on AS a while back...the thread I was referencing. So are the "T" nuts for a removable cleat for flexibility between a vise and clamping? And I gather the mounting hardware is countersunk on the bottom of the bases? Nice job.

And I haven't popped the cap on the breaker to inspect the innards at all.. Just dripped a little oil in the hole, but stand advised on the grease/oil combo.

​

And from everything I've been able to come up with and comparing setups with my Husky/Oregon dealer, it appears that I need 38597 and 38598 A and B spinner anvils respectively. (There were "actual size" pics in his master Oregon catalog.) He also discovered he was using the wrong spinner anvils (short ones with a stuffer behind em) and should be using the ones I need for a correct fit. Duh. His breaker was an Oregon tweener of some sort and used a punch with a very small diameter shaft...sort of like the one in the Foley I have, but without the large cap on top and didn't look like anything I've run across so far. The orange breaker I have seems to need the 38594 punch for everything except 3/4. Spinner inserts were around $8 a pop and the punch was around $14. I'll shop around a little since they had just put their weekly order in before I got there.

So now to cross ref corresponding numbers between different sources of the same parts. Will search the Performanceoutdoor link above for starters.

I cleaned up the stuff a bit. Much better now. And excuse the Husky 55 clutter. I'm building three of em at once assembly line style....which is one way to get a boatload of spare 55 parts organized!

​

 

[Philbert]

Yeah, the 'T'-nuts are for mounting removeable cleats, to allow quick mounting in the woodworking vise (seen in one photo). 'Designed them in', but I have not used them yet.

I recessed rare earth magnets into the bases to keep small parts, like spinner anvils, from getting lost. Big ones to keep the breaker anvil close by.

Philbert

 

[dannyupsolate]

you guys may know Nate http://chainsawrepair.createaforum....t/performance-outdoor-equipment-dolmar-parts/

 

[Philbert]

I cleaned up the stuff a bit.

Look nice by the way!
Philbert

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Everything was pretty nasty with grease, grime, and paint over spray from somewhere. Used nail polish remover for most of it but needed a good ol' Scotch-Brite pad for the stubborn spots.

Thanks to you and Danny I think I've got the parts I.D. stuff nailed down and seem to have gotten lucky with their common use and availability. Only thing I'm still curious about are the references to SAE and metric versions of some of the components. Haven't quite figured that out, but don't think it applies in my particular case.

Also discovered that Left Coast Supply is a great resource for Oregon parts with great prices. Worth a look if you haven't checked them out yet.