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Remodeling an old house + addition

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Hate roofs, did one on an old (1920's) house converted to a tri-plex. I'm pretty sure the original shakes were still on it. Something like 7 layers of shingles plus you could see where there was a small fire through part of it at some point. Luckily had lots of family kick in to help with it. Hot hot hot.
 

stihl_head1982

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MontanaTed

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Do to my lack of carpentry terms, will the new roof be, I guess, typical trusses, so a peak running from one end to the other verses the center peak that it had?

This will help on your roof knowledge :)

91fb7bc9112efe61a95617d66efbaccb.jpg


Curious to see the trusses fly!
 

cgraham1

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Do to my lack of carpentry terms, will the new roof be, I guess, typical trusses, so a peak running from one end to the other verses the center peak that it had?
Yes. It will just be a standard gable roof as opposed to a hip roof. Much simpler and looks better, in my opinion.

The kitchen/living room, and master bedroom will be vaulted, as well.

Is this considered a remodel or new construction ?
Definitely considered a remodel. I think my building inspector called it a “fire rehab”, so it doesn’t need everything brought up to current code like a new structure would. Here in Ca., that pretty much means no indoor fire sprinkler system or tempered glass windows. Plumbing and electrical both need to be brought up to current code, though. New construction needs to be 2x6 here as well to meet energy codes, while the existing walls will remain 2x4.
 

MontanaTed

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Are you able to use 2x4 with exterior insulation there to meet energy code? It’s not cheaper than 2x6 but an option.

Not sure if you can get shear wall strength from 2x4 though. Don’t have to deal much with that here.

Definitely going to be a different places. Are you going to frame up the addition this weekend before trusses hit?
 

cgraham1

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Are you able to use 2x4 with exterior insulation there to meet energy code? It’s not cheaper than 2x6 but an option.

Not sure if you can get shear wall strength from 2x4 though. Don’t have to deal much with that here.

Definitely going to be a different place. Are you going to frame up the addition this weekend before trusses hit?
I believe you could do 2x4 with 2” of rigid foam. I actually did a kitchen remodel in a house built like that... but it was built 21 yrs ago, and and building codes are always changing. My understanding is that 2x6 framing is not really for structure, just insulation. Shear is from the ply/OSB on the exterior walls and roof (I’m using T-111 plywood siding, and 1/2” OSB on the roof), blocking between the trusses and nailed to the roof/trusses/walls, hurricane straps (Simpson ties), and of course the interior walls and drywall add to it, as well. And also the number of nails used, and the spacing between them... I guess everything together makes it super strong. Overkill if you ask me.

Tomorrow I’m going to frame the two outside walls of the addition and brace them up, then on Monday install the trusses, and then build the gable end walls to meet the pitch of the vaulted trusses... we call it “balloon” framing around here. I could guess and frame the end wall before the trusses show up, but i don’t want to risk building it wrong.

I also have to add another top plate to the existing house, because for some reason the walls were built only 95” tall. They didn’t lap the double top plates correctly, anyways, so I just feel better adding another top plate... for strength and to get the walls a full 8’ tall.
 

stihl_head1982

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Yes. It will just be a standard gable roof as opposed to a hip roof. Much simpler and looks better, in my opinion.

The kitchen/living room, and master bedroom will be vaulted, as well.

Definitely considered a remodel. I think my building inspector called it a “fire rehab”, so it doesn’t need everything brought up to current code like a new structure would. Here in Ca., that pretty much means no indoor fire sprinkler system or tempered glass windows. Plumbing and electrical both need to be brought up to current code, though. New construction needs to be 2x6 here as well to meet energy codes, while the existing walls will remain 2x4.

This place should be a 110% improvement when you're done. Thanks for the post. (I was honestly thinking the low hip roof was a downer on this house -- then after seeing the fire damage -- ugg!)
 

MontanaTed

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Nice! Balloon framing the end wall is a great way of doing it. I’ve been following a couple guys on IG for quite sometime now. They build out of Seattle area and that’s how they do all their tall walls.

Frame, exterior sheathing, windows and siding and tip it up. They have quite the system and process.

It’s my understanding on insulation too with the 2x6, you can’t meet the most recent energy codes with out 2x6. I think you can come close with closed cell in 2x4 if I remember right unless you put the exterior on. I just wasn’t sure if there was seismic along with that in CA. Haven’t dealt with that at all
 
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