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redmax problems

kkemp

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I have a redmax gz 3500t that is idling fine the response is good to wot . But when I hold about half throttle it will bog down and slowly go to wot .. and now it running erratically after I had the high speed adjusted almost like it has an air leak . What is the problem? Fuel lines ?bad carb ? Thanks in advance .
 

kkemp

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It wasn't running till I changed the diaphragm. I thought it was fixed till it went crazy while cutting ..
 

dannyupsolate

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Easy thing to try loosen carb and wiggle it a little then retighten .When I think I have a carburetor perfectly clean I put in fresh water and dawn and clean it again. when you get it running again turn it all sides a seal leak often runs better right side up or right side down. Had one yesterday would not idle I loosen and reseated carb she ran great . beats me :bash:
 

kkemp

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Ok. I'll try that . I have a lot of problems with chainsaw carbs I have no idea what I'm doing wrong :(. Never had much problem with 4 stroke . 2 cycle carb is a whole new game though .. any suggestions on how to really learn them ?
 

dannyupsolate

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We are all learning something new about these little devil carburetors every day. You must have a ultrasonic cleaner to have a chance with these carbs. po folks like me have a harbor freight model rich folks have the huge stainless steel one from ebay. big enough to clean a whole power head. dang this poverty :crybaby2:





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kkemp

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Well I don't have one so even a harbor freight model would be nice .. what are the chances it could be fuel line? I've heard the redmax line is a scetchy .
 

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Ok. I'll try that . I have a lot of problems with chainsaw carbs I have no idea what I'm doing wrong :(. Never had much problem with 4 stroke . 2 cycle carb is a whole new game though .. any suggestions on how to really learn them ?
Download the Walbro and Zama service manuals would be a good start. Having a pressure/vac pump helps too. The biggest mistake many newbie makes is to not set the metering lever height which results lean or overrich conditions. Don't ever assume the one in the rebuild kit are set properly right out of the kit; many are not. Many of the Stihl service manuals also have test procedures for testing these carburetors.

blow through it. All I use is tygon or stens true blue
I ran a test on the Stens True Blue line and found it be not as described. In my test it both shrank and harden after only a month submerged in fuel mix. I therefore destroyed all that I had ordered and went back to Tygon F4040 and Echo Rubber lines.
 

kkemp

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Is the fuel line supposed to be be very soft and flexible? All my stihls have a much more firm feel ..
 

dannyupsolate

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usually it all gets harder with age. if your saw has a impulse line they need to be hard enough to not collapse from vacuum. have you run your saw any more.
 

kkemp

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No I didn't run it . Didn't have time after work .
 

kkemp

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Ok. I worked on the saw a little. Took the carb out and done a pressure test it is fine there . When I adjusted the low speed jet I'm at 3 1/2 turns out .is that normal ? On my stihl saws I'm only about 2 to 2 1/2 turns .
 

kkemp

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High end is also at 3 1/2 .
 

kkemp

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I didn't run it real long . It flared up the last time after about 10 min of running . I'll have to try it tomorrow. Don't like running a saw after dark with the neighbors and all ..
 

kkemp

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Well I found a carb kit that mostly works . The needle is wrong but everything else matches . It still has a little hesitation at half throttle but seems to be holding a little steadier on wot . Still not satisfied but don't know where to look next.
 

dannyupsolate

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looked at your replacement post. looks like real unique carburetor. according to your posts you did not clean it in a ultrasonic yet. maybe that might help but maybe not. if you can keep it running rich enough cut a little wood see what happens. watch fleabay and chainsawr see if a used carb turns up. best thing might be sell it to someone that needs redmax parts.
 
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