Raffle 262 builds

[malk315]

Again tonight, 2 pulls to a pop, and 2 more to running. Got the low set, high is still pretty rich. Perhaps some cutting tomorrow... [emoji57]

Where's the flood light or test cutting by the light of the moon?

 

[paragonbuilder]

Where's the flood light or test cutting by the light of the moon?

I’m hoping to beat the moon tonight. [emoji41]

 

[RI Chevy]

With the Fire shooting out the deflectors. Lol

 

[paragonbuilder]

Ryan’s piston should be here tomorrow, and pulley for the recoil on Monday.

 

[paragonbuilder]

I don’t know if I mentioned it, but at the gtg, Ryan’s saw suddenly died. Flywheel slipped. Key is integral, and sheared, so I marked the crank and flywheel, then lapped them with valve grinding compound, cleaned with brake cleaner.
Then I advanced timing just a bit past the mark, and I set the flywheel with a socket over the crank and tap it. Make sure it’s seated and then tighten down the nut.

 

[XP_Slinger]

I don’t know if I mentioned it, but at the gtg, Ryan’s saw suddenly died. Flywheel slipped. Key is integral, and sheared, so I marked the crank and flywheel, then lapped them with valve grinding compound, cleaned with brake cleaner.
Then I advanced timing just a bit past the mark, and I set the flywheel with a socket over the crank and tap it. Make sure it’s seated and then tighten down the nut.

Something I do is first tighten the nut, then give the crank a couple good hits using a brass drift much like you would when trying to free up new bearings after assembling the cases. The nut almost always tightens another 1/8 turn, the shock going thought the assembly seats her down nice and tight. I would definitely use your socket method with a busted key though.

 

[malk315]

I don’t know if I mentioned it, but at the gtg, Ryan’s saw suddenly died. Flywheel slipped. Key is integral, and sheared, so I marked the crank and flywheel, then lapped them with valve grinding compound, cleaned with brake cleaner.
Then I advanced timing just a bit past the mark, and I set the flywheel with a socket over the crank and tap it. Make sure it’s seated and then tighten down the nut.

Yours truly was running the saw when this occurred. The saw could be restarted and would idle but not accelerate. What I didn't realize is the key and slot are there just to lineup the flywheel to the crank. It is the bevel in the crank and flywheel that when you tighten the nut that actually holds it where it belongs on the crank. This I didn't know and I learn something new all the time! By lapping the surfaces Dan made it so it would grab real well and the flywheel will stay put. Ran several cuts after the fix and it was eating the wood like a rabid junkyard dog!

My 262 developed similar behavior and I was thinking carb, but will check for this too. I'm hoping i can remove the nut and visually see if the key and slot are still lined up. I don't know if Randy did a timing advance when he did my saw but will find out. I've got a touch of scoring on my saw so I picked up a meteor piston and expect to be able to clean up the cylinder. My biggest problem is time to get in front of the bench! I plan to rebuild carb too in case that is what lead to it not running well. Even with minor scoring its got decent compression. Last I checked it was around 220 psi compression... Little beast.


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[paragonbuilder]

Something I do is first tighten the nut, then give the crank a couple good hits using a brass drift much like you would when trying to free up new bearings after assembling the cases. The nut almost always tightens another 1/8 turn, the shock going thought the assembly seats her down nice and tight. I would definitely use your socket method with a busted key though.

I like that

 

[Fruecrue]

I’ve been warming the flywheels a bit lately with a heat gun.
Temperature difference helps to seat the flywheel a bit deeper without over stressing the nit.

 

[paragonbuilder]

I’ve been warming the flywheels a bit lately with a heat gun.
Temperature difference helps to seat the flywheel a bit deeper without over stressing the nit.

I like that too! Any trouble getting them off later?

 

[Fruecrue]

I like that too! Any trouble getting them off later?

Not any more painful than one that’s been on a long time, except my Chinese 660, the metal galled and that was a pain in the rear but I blame metallurgy more that anything.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Yeah, flywheel seating was an issue for me for the first time recently. The 359 I did for PA Dan sheared the flywheel key about 5 minutes into test n tune after porting it. I'm 100% sure I snugged the nut like I have previously done 100 times with no issue... Guess it can happen now and then

 

[huskyboy]

They give a torque number spec for flywheel nut usually and I follow that

 

[RI Chevy]

Damn Hooskies!!!!

 

[XP_Slinger]

Damn Hooskies!!!!

Don’t get me started on 044’s

 

[RI Chevy]

LMAO

 

[XP_Slinger]

LMAO

Well howdy Jeff!

 

[huskyboy]

Damn Hooskies!!!!

Flywheel torque for stihls too... and every other saw.

 

[huskyboy]

Don’t get me started on 044’s

Gotta take the cylinder off to change boot just like a husky if you wanna do it the easiest way on stihls too.

 

[RI Chevy]

Nah. Much easier to work on. Lol