PTO Clutch Blowing Fuses

[racerjohnbf]

Hey guys, my Hustler Z zero turn just started blowing the 10 amp pto fuse. It starts blowing it after about 15 or 20 mins of mowing, if you let it cool down for 5 mins or so it will go for a couple mins then blow again. Odd thing to me is, I put an amp meter in the fuse socket and it never gets above about 5.8 amps when the fuse blows. So far I have tried...

1. Look for wire rubs, none found
2. Read resistance at clutch windings... 2.4 ohms when cold, 2.8 ohms after it blows fuse
3. Swap the relay from another matching relay on the mower... no change
4. Voltage drop test... .1v neg, .4 pos, when cold, forgot to check when hot
5. Turned on clutch circuit with plug unplugged at clutch... no amp draw, no blown fuse
6. I installed a 15 amp fuse for a few mins to finish mowing and it did not blow. (I know this is not the solution but needed to finish mowing)

I think there is a diode in the clutch pigtail. could that cause a blown fuse if bad?
Also what would cause the fuse to blow well below the rated amperage?

Any thoughts on what to try next?

I was thinking of wiring the clutch straight to the battery, at the pigtail so the diode is still there,
with a 10 amp fuse in line to isolate the circuit and hopefully narrow it down to the pigtail or the clutch itself.

Thanks,

John

 

[Stump Shot]

@Onan18

 

[AVB]

If the clutch is anything like the one I just replaced on a Super Z the magnets may be coming loose and entering the electric magnet area causing shorts as they scrape the windings and touching the rotating metal disc. The one on this finally fully shorted out.

Also check the voltage while the engine is running and make sure it is not getting above 14vdc with the clutch engaged.

 

[Onan18]

If the clutch is anything like the one I just replaced on a Super Z the magnets may be coming loose and entering the electric magnet area causing shorts as they scrape the windings and touching the rotating metal disc. The one on this finally fully shorted out.

Also check the voltage while the engine is running and make sure it is not getting above 14vdc with the clutch engaged.

What he said. I would try a new PTO switch as well, it could have bad contacts and be drawing more amps than normal to pass.

 

[racerjohnbf]

So if the magnets are coming loose and contacting the windings would I have continuity from the windings to the clutch housing?

 

[AVB]

It depends on two things at least. First are the magnet the conductive type or not. Second they must scrape off the enamel armor coating of the coil wires. When the coating gets scrape even if magnets of the non-conductive they wire themselves can short together increasing the current as the resistance drops. This cause the coil to heat up more which will to more coating damage and more shorting. Once this starts it just continues until the coil burns up or blows a fuse.

 

[racerjohnbf]

Well I'm pretty sure it is what y'all are saying about the magnets coming loose. I replaced the clutch pigtail as Hustler tech support said it sounded like the pigtail or a bad ground. It wasn't the pigtail because the fuse blew as fast or faster than it has been. So I wired the clutch strait to the battery at the pigtail so the diode is still there, with a 10 amp fuse in line. I could leave the clutch connected as long as I wanted without the engine running and the fuse never blew. Then I ran the engine and connected the clutch and the fuse blew in a min or so. I'll be ordering a clutch in the morning. Does anyone have a good source to order from? Prices from the dealer are outrageous.

 

[AVB]

Probably Xtreme Cluutch makes a compatible one but I need the Hustler PN, the model of the mower to look up the PN, or the clutch model number to look it up. They are usually better than the original clutches due upgraded bearings and sometimes a better pigtail. Currently I am getting them from Stens; of course, I am a Stens dealer so I do get a price break so I can resell them but that retail is better then the Hustler (Excel) price.

 

[Onan18]

If I was going to fork out the shekels on a new clutch for a mower I was keeping I would definitely pay the premium for the Xtreme Clutch. Just the fact that they are rebuildable is worth the price of admission.

 

[Larry B]

Most ztr mowers usually have a 15 or 20 amp fuse. You said you tried a 15 amp fuse and it didn't blow. Before i dropped the coin on a clutch i would just run the 15 amp fuse for a while and see if it blows. The wiring will support it. A lot of the first mowers with electric clutches would blow fuses. The cure was just a 5 amp larger fuse.

 

[racerjohnbf]

Most ztr mowers usually have a 15 or 20 amp fuse. You said you tried a 15 amp fuse and it didn't blow. Before i dropped the coin on a clutch i would just run the 15 amp fuse for a while and see if it blows. The wiring will support it. A lot of the first mowers with electric clutches would blow fuses. The cure was just a 5 amp larger fuse.

Thanks Larry but I already tried a 15 amp fuse but it blew also so I'm pretty sure the clutch is toast.

Probably Xtreme Cluutch makes a compatible one but I need the Hustler PN, the model of the mower to look up the PN, or the clutch model number to look it up. They are usually better than the original clutches due upgraded bearings and sometimes a better pigtail. Currently I am getting them from Stens; of course, I am a Stens dealer so I do get a price break so I can resell them but that retail is better then the Hustler (Excel) price.

Hustler part number is 601311.

Warner 5218222 decal on the clutch itself.

Please pm me a price quote.

 

[AVB]

That is the one that has small round magnets that came loose here and entered the clutch windings area and destroyed the clutch. The Xtreme uses a different magnet setup for the clutch braking system.

In this case you are better off buying direct from Xtreme. Here is a link to their website keyed up on the Hustler 601311 PN.

https://xtremeope.com/page/search-results/?keywords=601311#

or if by the Warner PN

https://xtremeope.com/page/search-results/?keywords=5218-222#

Shipping is included in the pricing.

 

[racerjohnbf]

That is the one that has small round magnets that came loose here and entered the clutch windings area and destroyed the clutch. The Xtreme uses a different magnet setup for the clutch braking system.

In this case you are better off buying direct from Xtreme. Here is a link to their website keyed up on the Hustler 601311 PN.

https://xtremeope.com/page/search-results/?keywords=601311#

or if by the Warner PN

https://xtremeope.com/page/search-results/?keywords=5218-222#

Shipping is included in the pricing.

Thanks, for all the help! Should I order the one by the Hustler PN? That one says says Fat Boy Heavy Duty, while the one for the Warner PN says Xtreme Torque. Specs look to be the same for either one.

 

[AVB]

Yes are pretty the same clutch. Here is what Xtreme says is the difference plus when I installed the X0246 it looks just like the Fatboy bearing wise.

Xtreme’s New Fatboy Series uses top grade bearings and has a massive replaceable Pulley Bearing. The Xtreme High Torque Series Clutch has more torque for those serious enough to tackle the toughest conditions.

 

[racerjohnbf]

Thanks. That's good to hear. I had already ordered the X0246.

 

[racerjohnbf]

Update, I got my new Xtreme clutch installed yesterday and my dad ran the Z for for and Hr or so and all seems well.

Thanks for the help everyone. Here is a pic of the old clutch....

 

[Larry B]

That'll buff out.

 

[racerjohnbf]

That'll buff out.