High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Progressive gauge/uneven teeth. Does it matter?

~WBF

Thecallofthewildanswered1989-2017[PAID IN FULL!]
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I hear a lot of people on threads?

Most all are on "it doesn't matter" band waggon.

How did you come to this? Perhaps a trusted person on the internet? Personal experience? and if so then what is your experience and gear?
 

Skeans1

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I hear a lot of people on threads?

Most all are on "it doesn't matter" band waggon.

How did you come to this? Perhaps a trusted person on the internet? Personal experience? and if so then what is your experience and gear?

Harvester experience count?


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~WBF

Thecallofthewildanswered1989-2017[PAID IN FULL!]
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Harvester experience count?


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sure but I don't have any experience to make a rebuttal?
So I'll take what you tell me as internet experience. NO! TRUSTED INTERNET EXPERIENCE!
As far as you being a square grinder with the saws then it is never an issue. I few short teeth are just dealt with individually on the grinder if it happens on a new chain. They come out in the wash all together down the road. That works good, 100%
 

Homemade

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No it doesn’t matter to the average user. Keeping the depth gauges set to the accompanying tooth all the same is more important. Setting them all to .020 or .030 deep per tooth is better then a few swipes on all. Some get deeper then others.

I did sharpen a chain way far on all the lefts and new on the rights. When the depth gauges were all set to .025 of its tooth it was in front of, it cut straight.
 

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sure but I don't have any experience to make a rebuttal?
So I'll take what you tell me as internet experience. NO! TRUSTED INTERNET EXPERIENCE!
As far as you being a square grinder with the saws then it is never an issue. I few short teeth are just dealt with individually on the grinder if it happens on a new chain. They come out in the wash all together down the road. That works good, 100%

If you watch them when bucking if they’re not even or the rakers are off you can watch the bar walk or even misfire. If the rakers are too high with being a hydraulic cylinder ran bar you will burn out the saw motor very quickly besides having bar issues.


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~WBF

Thecallofthewildanswered1989-2017[PAID IN FULL!]
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If you watch them when bucking if they’re not even or the rakers are off you can watch the bar walk or even misfire. If the rakers are too high with being a hydraulic cylinder ran bar you will burn out the saw motor very quickly besides having bar issues.


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'misfire' maybe equal to a bind in comparison to the guys like me that round file in conjunction with the dogs? BUT..If you got that much power going then something is going to happen, I would imagine?
 

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'misfire' maybe equal to a bind in comparison to the guys like me that round file in conjunction with the dogs? BUT..If you got that much power going then something is going to happen, I would imagine?

I wouldn’t call it a bind the chain tries to walk or the bar is still whipping/vibrating.


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~WBF

Thecallofthewildanswered1989-2017[PAID IN FULL!]
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I wouldn’t call it a bind the chain tries to walk or the bar is still whipping/vibrating.


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I was saying the bind happens as in a hand faller with the dogs if you sand out one side or whatnot.
 
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Wolverine

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With the progressive depth gauges, tooth length does not matter. This is from my experience. If you use this type:
750.10101_1024x1024@2x.jpg

and have one side of the chain with smaller cutters, it'll cut crooked. Been there, done that.
 

~WBF

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I’ve had this for ages... and yes a very good read. And more informative than most others iv3 seen..:)
Haven't taken the wrapping off yet. It will come down to proof in the end.
50 min to new yr Sean so we will pick up tomorrow. Well I hope to pick up tonight if they could get the dam kids to leave the Pub already??? Reminds me of the Alaska down here but to the extreme. England is similar to the states not Canada.
Anyway happy New Year to all
 

3browns

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So what about the other half of this equation

Uneven tooth length and it’s effect on cutting, regardless of the way you maintain the rakers

A recent thread had a member post like 3 times in a page or two about how he filed back all his cutters to match the shortest one

I was on the verge several times of asking him why he would waste chain life doing that but figured he had his own reasons and to him, they were probably as valid as mine

So we get back to “I read it on the inter webs” vs real world experience

Personally I have never felt it mattered that much

While learning how to round file my right hand dominance REALLY showed up and my poor old 3/8 LP chain used to be so biased to one side it was ridiculous

But

It didn’t seem to make the slightest difference in the cut, TO ME AT LEAST

Discuss...
 

~WBF

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No it doesn’t matter to the average user. Keeping the depth gauges set to the accompanying tooth all the same is more important. Setting them all to .020 or .030 deep per tooth is better then a few swipes on all. Some get deeper then others.
I suppose. If we are saying "the average user" can't free hand equally on even teeth. But you would have to have even length teeth for the most part when free handing the rakers IMO



I did sharpen a chain way far on all the lefts and new on the rights. When the depth gauges were all set to .025 of its tooth it was in front of, it cut straight.
Yes, I heard a guy talk about a Stihl rep that did a demo at his local saw shop and It was a new chain with half filed off one side and it cut straight.

There was/is a guy an AS that is a German Engineer that has a thread about making your own raker gauge that was supported with software. Basically his gauge sits down on the rivets and was found much more effective on nearing the end of the chains life. Many progressive gauges will lose about 1/3 nearing the back end of the chain. He took certain measurement from the chain then runs it through the software calculator. It did show that the cutting angle degree from a new chain and a half used chain..still remained virtually the same with the Stihl gauge and Husqvarna gauge.
So that stands to reason that would work fine. If one side of the chain was at half and the other side to the line then that would likely be a different outcome.

Doesn't the Kerf slightly reduce as the cutters are filled back? So maybe a handful of short teeth will not cause you problems but a handful of longer teeth lagging behind? Then you would have a few teeth responsible for cutting the whole wider sidewall? And if it can't keep up???
What do you guys think? I always have a few longer teeth as 'luck' would have it as I file random teeth from chain throw damage. I almost always run into trouble with chains surging and then binding with the dogs.
Mind you, it's generally at the stage when chain throws are increasing from driver wear so I put on another.
 

Wood Chopper

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Ahh bucking billy told me so.... it must be the troof.. oh and nobody dis a grease wis him... in the comments section,,,

It Mush bee da troose...den :risas3:

:p.


I remember that video. lol I believe Bobby Walker was telling a story about how Silvey himself took a brand new chain shortened all the teeth on one side of the chain and left the other side untouched, set all his depth gauges the same and it cut dead straight, to prove a point.
 

Wolverine

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I remember that video. lol I believe Bobby Walker was telling a story about how Silvey himself took a brand new chain shortened all the teeth on one side of the chain and left the other side untouched, set all his depth gauges the same and it cut dead straight, to prove a point.
I had very similar results on the mill. Hit metal twice and only effected bottom cutters. After an hour of filing, the chain wanted go crooked and the mill stopped moving. Pulled it out of the cut and used the progressive on the depth gauges and on I went. Should have known better from the get go. I usually learn the hard way..
 

Brush Ape

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The reason an imbalance of cutter and or depthgauge doesn’t rear its head for most users is the regular guy cuts predominantly with 1/3 or less of his bar in wood. When you increase the number of incisors in wood, you increase the importance of having the things equal in angle, length and depth. Also a progressive feed would be more crucial as more teeth meet wood simultaneously. Though you can’t argue with success, you really can’t argue with physics.
 

Lightning Performance

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The reason an imbalance of cutter and or depthgauge doesn’t rear its head for most users is the regular guy cuts predominantly with 1/3 or less of his bar in wood. When you increase the number of incisors in wood, you increase the importance of having the things equal in angle, length and depth. Also a progressive feed would be more crucial as more teeth meet wood simultaneously. Though you can’t argue with success, you really can’t argue with physics.
Well said.
If you mill and fell trees I've noticed bucking is much more forgiving overall on uneven cutters. Screw up the depth gauges and you C why.
On the mill having a few short teeth is fine. Having a few long teeth is not. The saw will hop if you have enough bite. Found this out the hard way. It drove nuts till the calipers came out. An aggressive chain better have even cutters on a long bar mill setup.
The depth gauges being off just a little from side to side causes the bar to walk off line with wider cuts when you hit figured wood and grain direction changes.
me 2cts
 
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