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Poulan/Craftsman 3000 build (see PP 330 build for raffle saw)

Sleeper

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Any ideas for getting the cylinder off without breaking it? I gave it a few good smacks with a mallet and it won't budge. Tried holding the cylinder and hitting the case downward, tried hitting the front and back of cylinder... (not flywheel or pto sides, the intake and exhaust port sides) Not really any good place to pry on it.

Piston looks perfect through both intake and exhaust sides... has good compression.

I'd like to give it some light port work but if I can't remove that cylinder... just might end up doing carb kit, fuel line, and impulse line.

Or if I don't port it, am I going to get thrown overboard the ship into shark infested waters after being coated in chum?

More pictures to be added soon...
 

Sleeper

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Got it off now. Took a small ball peen hammer and lightly tapped it. Came right off. Guess the mallet wasn't transferring enough energy into the cylinder to pop it loose. You'd think I'd remember this by now after working on some saws...

Here's the pictures...

craftsman 3.jpg

Middle of disassembly...



craftsman 4.jpg

Exhaust port from inside... stock.



craftsman 5.jpg

Intake port from inside... stock.



craftsman 7.jpg

Exhaust port from outside... stock.



craftsman 9.jpg

Intake port from outside... stock.

Have one more picture coming up in the next post...
 

Sleeper

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craftsman 8.jpg

Now, with the exhaust port... not too much room for opening... reason why? The bolt holes go all the way back, stopping mere millimeters from the cylinder wall... so it can be widened, but not too much...

As for intake, the intake boot has a certain shape... so that end of the port should stay the same... however, we can open it up a fair bit at the cylinder wall.

Might work on this more tonight, otherwise it will be tomorrow after work or sometime next week. Depends on what is going on this weekend and whatnot.
 

Sleeper

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Also should add that this is a 44mm bore cylinder... rings are 44mm diameter with 1.5mm thickness.

So a set of Cabers will go in this saw, if Cut4fun says the cylinder is okay to use those.
 

Sleeper

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Worked on the cylinder a little. Matched the exhaust port to muffler inlet. Raised the roof a fuzz of a gnat's hair, really just arching it a little. Now the cylinder is soaking in some warm soapy water. Going to rinse the shavings out and then dry it off, and go back out to work on intake.

Will match lower transfers to case gasket, if the case gasket matches the transfer cut outs in the case. But I need to order a gasket set first.
 

Cut4fun

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You got a pic of the piston?

Bare bore is usually dark colored. Was the piston chrome or bare? Just wondering if it has been swapped at one time. All WAG's

But all my 3.0's were bare bore.

Looks great to me.

On intake. You can put a bigger 330 intake and bigger 330 carb if you want too. Just need to open the hole in tank up for it.
 

Sleeper

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You got a pic of the piston?

Bare bore is usually dark colored. Was the piston chrome or bare? Just wondering if it has been swapped at one time. All WAG's

But all my 3.0's were bare bore.

Looks great to me.

On intake. You can put a bigger 330 intake and bigger 330 carb if you want too. Just need to open the hole in tank up for it.

I do have a picture of the piston. Looks chrome to me. So chrome bore, chrome piston... ain't going to seize up very easily, I think.

Could Cabers be run in this set up?

craftsman 6.jpg
 

Sleeper

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:icon_popcorn:I've got a Poulan 2700 or 2800 waiting it's turn for the bench. Interested to see what mods work well for this series!

These saws are a bit of a secret... they run well as is. Doesn't need too much to run a little better.

How do I know this? My uncle's Poulan (USA) built Jonsered 2040 Turbo. Holy crap for 40cc's. That saw has balls I never expected out of it. All I did was a muffler mod and some general checking over and replacing a couple minor parts, and put a new chain on.

Retuned her. Barks like a 70cc saw, just with a muffler mod. I'll show you what I did for the muffler mod on that saw, since I will do the same for this 3000/3.0 as that Jonsered.
 

Cut4fun

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Yep chrome piston.

Never had to run cabers on them. OEM still FS new. Only ones NLA is the thin rings.

UPDATE: These are NLA new now too. Just looked.

But 2 NOS on ebay
 
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Wagnerwerks

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Not Chrome bore.... Just the slug. I'm pretty sure the chrome slug doesn't fit the chrome bore jugs.

The gray saw was always a plain bore.
 

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Sleeper

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Will be doing the muffler mod tomorrow. Have not gotten around to the intake reshaping yet.

Plus, I have a surprise on the way. We will see it in a couple weeks or so. (Thanks!)
 

Cut4fun

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The poulans in the right ones do run good and built just like their 3 times more expensive counterparts in name brand. cc for cc.
Will be testing a nice husky 353 52cc closed port I was using yesterday with 18" buried in ash, against my fav same weight poulan 54cc open port with same chain here soon. Pretty sure the 353 will get sold afterwords.

I had a 335 cylinder that would have been sweet for the build, but found in a thread there where it went. As I couldnt find it yesterday. Sent it to a guy on my site.

I have 4 of these now. Last 3 bought for parts but are runners now too. Poulan is actually easier to work on too.

c33v.png
h353oe.jpg
 

Cut4fun

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Will be doing the muffler mod tomorrow. Have not gotten around to the intake reshaping yet.

Plus, I have a surprise on the way. We will see it in a couple weeks or so. (Thanks!)

Which muffler? The one with full baffle and then the insert running through the middle?
 

Sleeper

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Which muffler? The one with full baffle and then the insert running through the middle?

No baffle in this one. Does have the insert. I have marked out the locations of the to be added slots for more flow. I will get pictures of that sometime today.

Has anyone tried brazing (with safety silv 45) a pipe outlet on one of these? I have an idea to keep the muffler from warping but not sure if it will work or not.

Was going to bolt the halves together with the insert inside of it and then cut the hole for the pipe and then braze it on. Was thinking 1/2" or maybe 3/4"
 

Sleeper

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The poulans in the right ones do run good and built just like their 3 times more expensive counterparts in name brand. cc for cc.
Will be testing a nice husky 353 52cc closed port I was using yesterday with 18" buried in ash, against my fav same weight poulan 54cc open port with same chain here soon. Pretty sure the 353 will get sold afterwords.

I had a 335 cylinder that would have been sweet for the build, but found in a thread there where it went. As I couldnt find it yesterday. Sent it to a guy on my site.

I have 4 of these now. Last 3 bought for parts but are runners now too. Poulan is actually easier to work on too.

[snip]

I have a 2152, which is the Jred variant of the 353. Love that saw. Took the cat muffler off and put a pipe outlet muffler on. Runs real good.

Yes, it cost 3x as much as the Poulans of same size. I personally think it was worth it. Besides, I wanted a Jonsered to use too.

As for the Poulans, I won't throw them out. They definitely are good runners, especially if you know which models to look for.

As for the 335 cylinder... yes, that would have made a nice sleeper. Would have been 3.3 cubes, right?

But the surprise is going to be on its way soon... and it will be built and made a runner again.

I do have a question for you... how do I get the carb out of the air box on this saw? Not sure how to disconnect the choke and throttle. It doesn't help that the fuel and impulse lines are as hard as a piece of granite.
 
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