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Ported 350 results

isaaccarlson

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I just put the ported 350 in some solid white pine with a "properly sharpened" chain according to specs. All I can say is wow. It was almost hitting the limiter in the cut and never bogged down, even under hard pressure. I think the lowest rpm was around 12,500. I will be taking the rakers down a touch to get some sort of load on the saw.

I swore off husqvarna saws, but now I take it all back. This thing is half the weight of my ms390. I will try to get a video later. I can't wait for the unlimited coil to get here along with the new air filter. This is a completely different saw than it was in stock form and Carl is going to have one fun toy next week!

You guys are evil, encouraging folks to try different saws, ported saws, hot saws, etc... I blame TreeMonkey!!!!!!
It's all his fault! He let me run his souped up 660 at the Grantburg GTG and now I have the bug so bad I am porting everything I can get my mitts on. My wife is not helping either, telling me I should port my ms390 next. She likes the sound of ported saws better and every time I run a stock saw, she makes me run a ported one last, just so she can end on a "good note" LOL. I will be getting a 350 for myself and doing the same exact thing to it that I did to this one.

later....
 

merc_man

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I ported a 353 which is about the same saw as the 350 i think. It really woke it up.
At first i didnt really think ther was a difference. The chain wasnt real sharp but after a good sharpen it was quite impresive. Really throws the chips and holds a higher rpm in the cut.
I picked up a couple basket case 353s and made one good one for $50. Might port this one too and compare. The first one has a hitzle top end.
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Landmark

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:eyepop:Well this thread has me further confussed about whether to port or not to port a 350. I recently read @Mattyo thread on ported vs non ported and the non ported with mm was the hero. And now i read this where a ported 350 is impressive. Now i am really confussed about how responsive a 350 is to porting.
 

merc_man

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:eyepop:Well this thread has me further confussed about whether to port or not to port a 350. I recently read @Mattyo thread on ported vs non ported and the non ported with mm was the hero. And now i read this where a ported 350 is impressive. Now i am really confussed about how responsive a 350 is to porting.
Now keep in mind mine was a aftermarket top end. The stock one may be stronger. I havnt tried the stock one in wood yet to compare.

The aftermarket one seemed to jave a lot of castng flaws too.
 

isaaccarlson

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Ported is king for a 350. I have never been impressed by a husky before, but now I see things in a whole new light. I didn't remove the base gasket or use an aftermarket piston. It still has the sunk top piston. I did remove a few thousandths from the base to get it flat and true. The muffler is modded, the spark plug is side gapped to .023, and the ignition timing is untouched as of right now. I may trim the flywheel key if I get the ambition. I am going to wait for the new coil to get here before I do that though, since the timing might change with the coil.

If anyone is on the fence about porting a 350, let me make one thing perfectly clear. When ported well and within reason, these saws come alive. Porting is something that needs to be done right and with the end goal in mind. if you start grinding away on a saw without knowing exactly what you are doing, you may end up with a paper weight. Most folks can widen the ports and retune the carb and see some sort of improvement.

There are lots of ways to port a saw. I didn't change any port timing from stock. All I did was open up the ports and improve flow. Part of this included changing the direction of the transfers. I have many hours into this saw and it shows. I used a dremel for 98% of the work. An 8153 stone to get through the plating and 9903 and 9904 carbide burrs for removing aluminum. The plating is hard on carbide burrs and breaks the cutters. The ports were marked out and the stone was used to open up the cylinder side to the marks. Then the burrs were used to remove the aluminum and finish the port shape. I used a flex shaft on the dremel. A diamond coated bead reamer was used to put a small chamfer on the ports by hand. I prefer to chamfer by hand if I can. I don't have any fancy tools, but I know how to use what I do have.

The transfers did not open all the way and this is why I left the base gasket in. If this was my saw, I would have removed the gasket and ground the piston to match the ports and preserve timing. I did not measure the port timing on this saw and I have yet to measure port timing. I do it all by the seat of my pants. If I think a port needs to get moved, I move it. The blowdown on this saw was great, at nearly half of the exhaust port. There is plenty of power stroke on this saw, and I tried to keep all of it. I removed the sides of the piston below the pin and opened up the transfers as far as I could. You have to be careful for the screw holes. The intake and exhaust ports were widened just about as far as the edge of the skirt, leaving a few mm of coverage on the sides. (the ranger only has 1-2 mm coverage at the port edge) The compression on this saw is just above stock. The decomp passage was clogged with carbon, so I left it that way. :D
 

isaaccarlson

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I just got one, but it's kind of crappy. I fattened it up to keep it from hitting the rev limiter so hard. It was still hitting it, but just barely.
It will be uploaded shortly. You will have to pardon my straight legs and rear end up in the air, LOL.
 

Mattyo

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:eyepop:Well this thread has me further confussed about whether to port or not to port a 350. I recently read @Mattyo thread on ported vs non ported and the non ported with mm was the hero. And now i read this where a ported 350 is impressive. Now i am really confussed about how responsive a 350 is to porting.

Landmark, I am still not necessarily questioning whether or not porting helps, but based on my last video the stock saw does pretty good with just a muffler mod. ....a BIG muff mod.

In a few short days, I hope to have more conclusive results so as to not confuse anyone.
 

merc_man

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Landmark, I am still not necessarily questioning whether or not porting helps, but based on my last video the stock saw does pretty good with just a muffler mod. ....a BIG muff mod.

In a few short days, I hope to have more conclusive results so as to not confuse anyone.
It would be neet to try porting the saw in differant steps to see where most your gains come from. like muff mod then test. Then timing advance,then widen ports, then transfers and so on.
 

Mattyo

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Though I agree with that approach...its not my style. I like to do what I can, slap it together, and go cut. .... don't have much time to fiddle :)

on the other hand, wcorey, who built the dyno, has a pile of 350 stuff that he may just run that experiement, so ...hold onto your horses... the tests are coming one day :)
 

isaaccarlson

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Is that the bike wheel dyno? If so, that is one sweet piece of engineering. He could put some sort of damper on the load cell arm to get smoother results. Maybe a small, uncharged shock absorber, or he could make one, just a cylinder with no seals and a small transfer port for the fluid.
 

isaaccarlson

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Here is the first one. Just a test run and a demo of a dutchman. The tree was hanging over the garden and I wanted it to land in the yard. One branch touched the dish.
 

Landmark

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Landmark, I am still not necessarily questioning whether or not porting helps,
.
I agree with this on most saws but i am having my doubts on the 350 model. I should have one arriving tomorrow and i plan on a good muff mod and a popup piston. That might be all i do since porting, while might add some gains, are not a big enough gain to make it worth while on this particular saw. Compared to a 262 where the gains are enormous and well worth while. I could be wrong but thats for others to decide and us to find out. Appreciate all the effort to find truth that you men go to for the rest of us who dont have the saws or abilities.
 
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