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Pocket Chain Breaker

Philbert

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A lot of the 'old guys' scoff at using a spinner and breaker for making or repairing chains, and say that they 'just carried a pocket chain breaker' in the field. So I always wanted to try one.

$40 seemed like a lot for what you get:
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...akers/Oregon-2-Piece-Pocket-Chain-Breaker.axd

When I saw an Archer branded one for about $18 on eBay, I decided to try it:
IMG_6182.jpg

The set comes with: an anvil, a punch, a second punch with a concave end (I assume for forming rounded rivet heads?); and no instructions. Instructions can be found in the Oregon manual (pages 30 -33) here:
https://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/pdf/maintenance_manual/ms_manual.pdf

The anvil looks similar to the one that came with my spinner and breaker set:
IMG_6184.jpg

IMG_6185.jpg

Philbert
 

jakethesnake

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Have you tried it. ? I have saw a few different brands. I'm considering getting one.
 

Philbert

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I tried it on some scrap 3/8 low profile chain. While, in fairness, some people say that this chain is more fussy to work with than other sizes, it is also the smallest, and should be easy to break. I started with a small ball pein hammer, and quickly graduated to a large (24oz) one. It was not easy, and took several hits. The punch finally drove out the rivet after breaking off the spun head (similar to the way my bench top breaker punch does), but heavily deforming the link.
IMG_6186.jpg

I could file off the spun head first, but this kind of defeats the purpose of having a chain breaker IMO. Also note how the anvil that came with my bench top breaker (upper one in post above) has grooves to provide clearance for a cutter - this pocket breaker can only be used on links with tie straps on both sides.

Maybe it works better on larger pitch chain?

Maybe the Oregon one works better?

I am pretty disappointed in this, but open to any suggestions. Would love to hear input from those old guys who swore by them (instead of swearing at them)!

Philbert
 
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jakethesnake

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With roller chain I hit them without the punch first. Use the punch only when you get the robot flush
 

jakethesnake

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I don't spin a ton of chain but I have ground the river down first on those I break.
 

jakethesnake

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What I was getting at is I'd be interested to try hitting the rivet good and hard with just the hammer to see if the river would move or mushroom more. On roller chain the rivets will move if you hit them hard and true. Then use the punch to punch them out. I'm not sure if this will work with Saw chain as I'm not sure the rivets aren't softer
 

Philbert

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Rivets in roller chain (e.g. most bicycle chains) are essentially straight gauge - they push right through.

Rivets for saw chain are a larger diameter in the middle, so you essentially push the opposite tie strap (side plate) off. That is the function of the slotted anvil: to support the chain drive link while allowing the tie strap to be driven free.

The larger diameter, center portion of the rivet is hardened, and acts as a bearing. The smaller diameter, ends of the rivets are softer, which lets them be spun / formed into mushroom shaped heads.

Pre-set Tie-strap Rivet.png Screen shot 2017-03-19 at 9.48.20 PM.png

Philbert
 

jakethesnake

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They'd just mush worse than. Hell it was a thought. I'll continue grinding the heads back I think. I have a grinder next to the bench vise. Sounds like this tool isn't for me. Thanks for the review philbert. I keep enough chain on me that I always have at least one more on hand. I'm not gonna break one in the field. Seems a bench vise will do exactly the same thing this guy will do
 

Philbert

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Follow up

As noted, I thought that maybe there was just a problem with the smaller pitch 3/8 low profile ('Picco') chain. I compared punch diameters between this Pocket Chain Breaker and my bench top one: the bench top punch was much smaller, and perhaps penetrated the head, and drove the rivet through with less resistance?

Tried the Pocket Chain Breaker with some standard 3/8 pitch chain. Worked a little better, but still took a lot of whacks and deformed the links. So I still prefer a bench top breaker in the shop, and a Granberg (if needed) in the field.

Philbert
 

Wagnerwerks

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Lol. I was just bustin on ya....
 

davidwyby

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So...I'm getting some 93DL chains from the christmas thread @K Mueller and a bar from @Cat 525 that is 92DL. Maybe they'll fit...but if not it seems like if I wanted to be a tightwad and have a machine shop, I could used what grinders and punches I have around and make an anvil...maybe just need some chain rivets?
 
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Philbert

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Or, try putting a larger sprocket on the saw. Might fit the longer chains.

You can also grind the rivet heads off and pry the tie straps off. You will damage them, but try not to damage the other parts.

Then you buy the right size ‘pre-sets’ and tie straps, for about $1 per set, and reassemble with a ball peen hammer. Not as pretty as spinning the rivets, but you would not be the first to do this.

Philbert
 

davidwyby

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Now there's an idea, thanks. I was wanting a larger sprocket anyway (want to play at cookies with the 395) and forgot to put one in on my last order from HL. I'm thinking the 395 is probably large spline and the 2166 and 266s small...
 

pbillyi69

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those old guys that said all they ever used probably used an axe as a hammer. having used both and having extra chain i would choose the spinner every time. the old guys probably didnt want to spend the money either
 

Philbert

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There’s a difference between ’field expedient’ and ‘by the book’. You do what you have to do, but given the choice, I’d rather have it ‘done right’.

‘Luck favors the prepared’ - Louis Pasteur.

Carrying a chain anvil and punch, or a Granberg’Break-N-Mend’, along with the right presets; or just extra chains; means that you won’t have to get too creative.

Philbert
 
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