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Part Three: The Transfer Ports

Deets066

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The first husky 350 i did I hogged out the lowers and it had alot of rpm but not much torque. The second one I filled the riser with jb weld and you could really lean on it.
9e6b6ea4752a0e598868a61c7183a6c2.jpg


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You added a lot. What numbers did you end up with?
 

ABarrick

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The first husky 350 i did I hogged out the lowers and it had alot of rpm but not much torque. The second one I filled the riser with jb weld and you could really lean on it.
9e6b6ea4752a0e598868a61c7183a6c2.jpg


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You using the 350 jug or 346? I ask as the one 350 I have that I ported is a stock 350 jug with a meteor flat top piston and it has the most open lowers you could have without grinding into daylight and it has really good trigger response, good torquey powerband but not quite as much rpm as my 346's do. Its a sweet little firewood saw but I like the 346 better for straight-up limb work.
 

t4driller

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Using the 45mm jug, hlsupply 353 piston with caber rings. I had a 346 here I ported and that saw was right on its heals. I was trying to find a way to get the 350 to run as good as the 346. Imho, I think the 350 lowers are to big and you lose to much case compression.

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t4driller

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Another thing I've been messing with is staggering the transfers. The last 2 346 I did, the clutch side trans open 1 /1.5 degrees before the fw side. Both have alot moregrunt then the first saw I did with the numbers / grinding being the same for all 3.

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Deets066

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Another thing I've been messing with is staggering the transfers. The last 2 346 I did, the clutch side trans open 1 /1.5 degrees before the fw side. Both have alot moregrunt then the first saw I did with the numbers / grinding being the same for all 3.

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Entry angle and direction is huge.
 

EvilRoySlade

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There's a cheesehead, 2 guys from Canaanada and a logger from the west coast that I'd love to hear their opinions on transfers.

What I strongly believe though is direction of flow is equally if not more important than volume. Air is a fluid as most of us know, and with oily liquid in suspension is even more fluid like.

Speaking for fun, I bet that if the transfers were aimed "correctly" you could reduce blowdown buy 3-7 degrees.
 

XP_Slinger

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Entry angle and direction is huge.
This^^^. I try to visualize what transfer angles will kick out the rest of the exhaust without blowing a ton of fresh charge out with it. On a quad port, I think getting a flat entry is beneficial in that it lifts the exhaust toward the exhaust port rather than mixing in turbulence. Also, pointing the entry angle of the intake side transfers toward the intake continues pushing the exhaust out but keeps the fresh charge away from the exhaust port for maximum retention if you don't have excessive case pressure. Next is the exhaust side transfer window, I think that straight in is a good approach, perhaps open it a degree after the other transfer port so that as the exhaust is being lifted the second transfer window opening forces it out. I also think dual ports should be pointed toward the intake. Just a theory. Sorry if that's not clearly written I'm tired
 

Deets066

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This^^^. I try to visualize what transfer angles will kick out the rest of the exhaust without blowing a ton of fresh charge out with it. On a quad port, I think getting a flat entry is beneficial in that it lifts the exhaust toward the exhaust port rather than mixing in turbulence. Also, pointing the entry angle of the intake side transfers toward the intake continues pushing the exhaust out but keeps the fresh charge away from the exhaust port for maximum retention if you don't have excessive case pressure. Next is the exhaust side transfer window, I think that straight in is a good approach, perhaps open it a degree after the other transfer port so that as the exhaust is being lifted the second transfer window opening forces it out. I also think dual ports should be pointed toward the intake. Just a theory. Sorry if that's not clearly written I'm tired
I like the primary flat and pointed directly at the intake. And the secondary aimed upward and also toward the intake
 

ABarrick

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Using the 45mm jug, hlsupply 353 piston with caber rings. I had a 346 here I ported and that saw was right on its heals. I was trying to find a way to get the 350 to run as good as the 346. Imho, I think the 350 lowers are to big and you lose to much case compression.

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I love this series of saws to tinker with. I currently have 2 Dozerdan 346's (one stock carb, one with 357 carb/intake tract), a 350 that I did, a 2153 with just a muffler mod and base gasket gone and 2 project 350s waiting on some loving and I have owned 5 or 6 other 346/350's previoulsy. They all have/had vastly differrent personalities. No two have run exactly the same. The best running saw overall is the Dozer 346 with stock carb. The saw with the 199 walbro has more rpm but more peaky and not as crisp. Realistically, the Jred is enough to keep most people happy and I have very little time invested in it. Bolted on a box stock 346 jug and drilled a hole in the muffler. I run 72LGX on all of them and they do extremely well with it. Lots of different ways to acheive the same/similar results.
 

t4driller

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I love this series of saws to tinker with. I currently have 2 Dozerdan 346's (one stock carb, one with 357 carb/intake tract), a 350 that I did, a 2153 with just a muffler mod and base gasket gone and 2 project 350s waiting on some loving and I have owned 5 or 6 other 346/350's previoulsy. They all have/had vastly differrent personalities. No two have run exactly the same. The best running saw overall is the Dozer 346 with stock carb. The saw with the 199 walbro has more rpm but more peaky and not as crisp. Realistically, the Jred is enough to keep most people happy and I have very little time invested in it. I run 72LGX on all of them and they do extremely well with it. Lots of different ways to acheive the same/similar results.
They are one of my favorite series 9f saws. Probably what I tinker with the most. Easy to work on, and get great gains out of them. Just wish usually would put there 353 piston on sale again. [emoji6]

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Hedgerow

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I love this series of saws to tinker with. I currently have 2 Dozerdan 346's (one stock carb, one with 357 carb/intake tract), a 350 that I did, a 2153 with just a muffler mod and base gasket gone and 2 project 350s waiting on some loving and I have owned 5 or 6 other 346/350's previoulsy. They all have/had vastly differrent personalities. No two have run exactly the same. The best running saw overall is the Dozer 346 with stock carb. The saw with the 199 walbro has more rpm but more peaky and not as crisp. Realistically, the Jred is enough to keep most people happy and I have very little time invested in it. Bolted on a box stock 346 jug and drilled a hole in the muffler. I run 72LGX on all of them and they do extremely well with it. Lots of different ways to acheive the same/similar results.
You're lacking carb on the DD 346..
Carb it right and hang on..

he made good 346's.
 

Dolmar Junkie

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I couldn't sleep so I read all 3 of these twice, now my head hurst. A lot of good info in here, I am to wet behind the ears to know what works and all, but I have enjoyed learning more then I knew, thanks to all of you.
It does kind of feel like minimally invasive brain surgery, combine these 3 threads with ADD and I might have multiple saws torn apart by morning! Proud graduate of Insomniac University ....
 
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